Yup, alt to starter Through the harness is correct you don’t need to mess with that one. And yes the wire from the fuse box will hook around the block B+ terminal. You have it correct now
I pulled the big wire out of my e36 m3 harness last night. I notice it has 2 wires on one end spliced into 1 that connects to the b+ block?
Is that ok? Or do they have to be seperate?
My e36 goes like this: smaller gauge wire on fuse box, thick gauge wire from starter, then those merge together and turn into 1 wire that went to the b+ box. (E36 s52 wiring)
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The little spare wire can be taped off. (Or used as a hot at all times source for a relay or something you as later)
Heres how how you want it.
From B+ to fuse box is 1 lone wire. From B+ to starter is 1 lone wire and from alternator to starter is one lone wire.
That’s wierd, mine were separate lines. U got it mixed up, the big 4gauge goes to starter. Looks like someone heat shrinked the wire together
Last edited by brokeazz; 12-15-2017 at 10:01 PM.
i think thats why im so confused. everyone mentioned two separate wires, and mine came out like this. And yes i labelled them wrong in the photo, fat wire was on the starter and thinner one to fuse box....
so is it safe to wire it like this a 2wire into 1 wire to B+ box?
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also hows everyone routing the electronic pedal wire? any hidden passages or do i have to make the original hole bigger to fit the connector through?
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Me personally I wouldn’t do it. BMW designed it that way so I say keep them separate. You can get the wire from a junkyard pretty cheap.
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I’ve read some people have de-pinned the wire from the connector and run it through the hole from the old throttle cable opening, get a 4guage grommet, it fits perfectly
Ok so little update. I tried to start it up today and got a no start, just cranks all day and not even a pop.
Fuel pump is priming and I smell fuel through the throttle bodies when I open them manually.
I'm thinking it's EWS related, so I emailed Andrew since I bought the harness and markert tune through him. Hopefully I hear back from him.
Or something came disconnected in the DME compartmen, I'll open it up and make sure everything is connected tight.
Does anyone have a diagnostic advice for me?
Here's a video.
https://youtu.be/ikv3rLx961E
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Ok so I spoke with Andrew and he said he loaded the bianary from my ecu and it shows EWS disabled. So I can check that off the list.
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You have everything wired in correctly? Is your coil pack harness securely set, plugged in and grounded to the head?
Good point and Andrew is distributing markert tunes now?
Cool send me your email I’ll get you inpa
Do you have a new or old crank position sensor? What about the harness, check the main harness relay
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
Just FYI: Both Pitt and myself have experienced trying to start with EWS enabled when it should have been disabled. Both of us had an engine that would immediately try to start, and then immediately stall. So I think it is safe to rule out EWS as the issue 100%.
If you're getting fuel but no spark then I'd look at:
- crank/cam position sensors as the coils aren't firing
- a wire issue between those sensors and the ECU
- possibly you do not have power and grounds distributed to the ECU correctly, or the coils
- Also, I know it's obvious but the main ground cable between body and engine
Here is the cable INPA / DME CABLE
You can use the OBDII port for this. If you want to access body side module, then you use the round diagnostic plug. You can, however, access the DME at the diagnostic plug as well.
As for the INPA install, follow the direction and email me if youre having trouble connecting. We may have to edit your COM ports. NBD though.
Can I have that too?
David-fisher@live.com I have the cables already and a windows XP laptop
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
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