So I'm about to buy a 1988 735i with under 46k miles.
It's ultra ironic because my first car at 16 was also a 1988 735i I bought for $850. That car had well over 300,000 miles on it before the head gasket blew a second time and I reluctantly got rid of it. **Shout out to Shogun for all the advice a few years ago, as well as a new ECU chip that transformed the car.**
Front.jpg Inside Engine.jpg Interior.jpg
Anyways, this one I'm buying has been sitting for approximately 5 years. The gas tank is rusted out due to a leak near the windshield wipers that seeped under the carpet and into the trunk.. The owner claims the leak was actually fixed, and I believe him due to how dry it is inside the car. He also claims the bad gas never made it to the engine, which I'm inclined to believe as well. I looked in the oil filler and also pulled a spark plug... and wow, it looks brand new in there.
Believe it or not (believe it because I've seen it in person...), there is almost NO rust on this car other than the gas tank and some minor surface rust on the exhaust studs.. it's almost unbelievable how clean it is. Even in the usual spots. I'm in the northeast, so that's why I'm amazed. But I guess it was garaged prior to these last 5 years.
The drivers/passengers seats are out of the car (but in great shape, dry, inside), as well as the carpet.
The owner's including a parts car (1987 735i with 200k++ miles) that miraculously has a super clean gas tank. Believe me, I looked and checked and made sure. He also has a new fuel pump included for the price.
46k gas tank:
gas tank.jpg
Doner car gas tank:
doner tank 2.jpg
Anyone have any recommendations about how to get this car back on the road?
I have some things in mind and some questions as well:
-brake fluid flush/change (and inspect the pads/rotors)
-new fuel filter
-coolant flush/change
-new tires (they're cracking)
-power steering fluid flush/change
-inspect exhaust hangers for cracks & replace accordingly
-flush/change the transmission fluid and differential fluid
-engine oil/filter change and then again after 1500 miles
-obviously reinstall the seats and carpet (dash is in tact thank god)
-recharge AC
-replace intake boot (cracked) & filter
-clean out intake throttle body
-replace spark plugs and spray some marvels mystery oil in each cylinder.
-toss in a new battery and fire her up?
But given it only has 44k, do I really need to...
~~replace the belts? They're properly tight and not cracked.
~~replace the rubber brake lines if they aren't cracked at all?
~~replace the radiator/hoses/water pump/thermostat? I know the interval is 100k, but it's been sitting for a number of years so I'm not sure. The rubber hoses are surprisingly still supple and uncracked.
~~replace suspension components immediately or after I get it on the road?
~~take off the valve cover and spray oil on the valves before starting?
~~replace any other gaskets or rubber parts??
THANK YOU for any suggestions! I apologize for the long post
Last edited by CamE32; 11-03-2017 at 12:42 AM.
wow, that was back in 2012 when you got my DME chip for the M30.
Now to this car, some comments, ideas....sitting for 5 years depends where it was sitting, out in the garden or inside a dry garage or shed.
Gas tank rusted: check it again, maybe the red color is just bad old fuel, that turns red and slimy. That stuff can even clog fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel injectors, I know from experience with a 750. But as you even got a parts car, you have no probs at all. Your list what to check/change is pretty good.
The below mentioned items I would just check and replace if rally neccessary, you will see when the engine/car is running. quote
But given it only has 44k, do I really need to...
~~replace the belts? They're properly tight and not cracked.
~~replace the rubber brake lines if they aren't cracked at all?
~~replace the radiator/hoses/water pump/thermostat? I know the interval is 100k, but it's been sitting for a number of years so I'm not sure. The rubber hoses are surprisingly still supple and uncracked.
~~replace suspension components immediately or after I get it on the road?
~~take off the valve cover and spray oil on the valves before starting?
~~replace any other gaskets or rubber parts?
unquote
Maybe you first remove the spark plugs, spray some oil into the spark plug holes and turn the engine by hand via the crankshaft to lube the cylinders.
Good Luck and keep us up to date.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
I think I’ve seen that car on Craigslist
Me E30 87/ 325i + F25 12/ M-Sport + E32 94/ 740i
G/F’s E34 92/ 525iT + F48 18/ X1
@Shogun
Thanks for the reply! If (when) I get it back on the road, I'll have to buy another DME chip from you if they're still available.
@e30luv
Are you near Boston? It's in Bridgewater. I'm picking it up for $2200 with the parts car and a new-in-box bosch fuel pump.
I started up the M30 in my E28 after a couple of years in the back of the sellers warehouse (outside). I pulled all of the plugs and poured oil into the bores, and let it set for a bit, then cranked it over - still with plugs out. put good gas in, replaced the plugs and it it fired up. The benefit of turning it over also is that it gets oil to the cams.
Black on Black 740i - 10/92 build date, 225,000 miles.
Delphin on Cherry 533i - 4/84 build date, 136,000 miles
Black on Black 328i - 3/96 build date, 185,000 miles - Sold
2008 Porsche Cayenne GTS
Great advice, thanks.
Just a couple questions:
1) how much oil did you squirt into the cylinder and what did you use to avoid getting oil in the spark plug threads?
2) how many times do I need to turn the engine over? Will turning it over by hand even create enough oil pressure to lubricate the valves?
I almost forgot to mention... the tool kit is fully intact!
Even has some original BMW antenna cleaning packets
Probably a couple teaspoons in each bore. I didn't worry about getting oil in the threads, If you are, spray some brake cleaner on a paper towel and wipe them off.
Hand turning will not bring oil pressure up at all for circulation. I only ran mine for maybe 3 or 4 times and 10-15 seconds each, with a pause in between. With the plugs out, you are putting much less strain on the starter, but still a good idea to not crank endlessly.
Does your tool kit still have the blue cloth?
Black on Black 740i - 10/92 build date, 225,000 miles.
Delphin on Cherry 533i - 4/84 build date, 136,000 miles
Black on Black 328i - 3/96 build date, 185,000 miles - Sold
2008 Porsche Cayenne GTS
I’m in RI it’s been up since summer I believe? Looks like a nice one . What’s the parts car like ?
Me E30 87/ 325i + F25 12/ M-Sport + E32 94/ 740i
G/F’s E34 92/ 525iT + F48 18/ X1
Thanks, that clarifies things.
I don't think I saw the blue cloth (Update: it has the blue cloth!)
- - - Updated - - -
It's in pretty rough shape. The tires are all flat, but it's a complete car. I didn't inspect much else but the gas tank to be honest.
The owner picked it up supposedly running/driving for $500 with over 250k on it.
Last edited by CamE32; 11-11-2017 at 02:30 PM.
Both cars were delivered today!!
Here is an album with a bunch of pics: https://imgur.com/a/2FCFq
And here is an album of my first car I forgot I had on imgur: https://imgur.com/a/pJq5X
Now where to begin.... I'm thinking I'll start by jacking up the rear and removing the gas tank. Any advice?
Also, how much do I need to worry about the aftermarket alarm system?
Looks like a solid project! I spy a 126 and 123! As long as the aftermarket does not have an imobilizer you should be good
Me E30 87/ 325i + F25 12/ M-Sport + E32 94/ 740i
G/F’s E34 92/ 525iT + F48 18/ X1
well, you are not a beginner with E32, hope you still have the Bentley Repair Manual, on my website there are plenty of links to other E32 repair sites, and here is the workshop manual https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/
wiring diagrams http://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e32/
ETK http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog
USA aftermarket alarm systems I do not know any details
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
@Shogun I'll probably use your guide to fix a twisted drivers seat down the road. I think it's slightly out of whack
1983 4-spd Mercedes 240d w/403k - Sold!
11/87 E32 735iA w/45k - Daily Driver (finally!)
04/88 E32 735iL - Parts Car
It's raining today so I didn't feel like attempting the gas tank.
Instead, I decided to preliminarily see what I'm working with as far as electronics go. So I hooked up some jumper cables to the battery connects and turned the key to on... (fuel pump disconnected, don't worry)
The Good:
-headlights highbeams, parking lights, and tail lights/brake lights all work.
-blower motor and vent controls work great! Kinda surprised me with how fast it started pumping out air.
-defroster seems to work
-interior courtesy lights all work
-horn works
-wipers and windshield spray work
The Bad:
-blinkers inoperable as well as hazard switch
-fog lights aren't coming on (could just be bulbs, but seems odd that both don't work)
-no audible dinging or anything when you put the key in
-mileage and bottom display of the instrument cluster light up but don't show anything
-radio reads "CODE" and trip computer reads "PPPP"
-windows and sunroof don't seem to work
Any thoughts?
1983 4-spd Mercedes 240d w/403k - Sold!
11/87 E32 735iA w/45k - Daily Driver (finally!)
04/88 E32 735iL - Parts Car
-fog lights aren't coming on (could just be bulbs, but seems odd that both don't work)>>>if it still has the old system wiring, check this plug behind the bumper , that is for outside temp sensor and foglights http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/OBC_temp/OBC_temp.html
US LKM has 3 relays, one of them is for the front foglights
-no audible dinging or anything when you put the key in>>>the gong is left side under dash, check the connections, it is also connected with the OBC
-mileage and bottom display of the instrument cluster light up but don't show anything>>>>>probably the cluster caps are dead http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/dash...dash_caps.html
-radio reads "CODE" and trip computer reads "PPPP" >>>>>http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_2.htm
radio code you have to find out
-windows and sunroof don't seem to work >>>check fuses first, all that is controlled by the GM and RM under rear seat, there are also fuses
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Since you mentioned water leaking into the trunk, it could have leaked under the rear seats as well where your GM is. Like Erich said, that would control the windows and sunroof. Mine was a solid hunk of rust when I opened mine up. Replaced with a junkyard spare and voila. This is if the fuses are all ok and the windows/sunroof still dont work
BMW 7er Website www.7er.com
1989 BMW 735i Schwarz (sadly, sold) // 1989 BMW 750iL Cirrusblau Metallic // 1998 BMW 740iL Oxfordgrün Metallic // 2000 M5 Carbon Schwarz ///
Fun fact: I checked the VIN and found that 11/13/2017 was my car's 30th birthday!
1983 4-spd Mercedes 240d w/403k - Sold!
11/87 E32 735iA w/45k - Daily Driver (finally!)
04/88 E32 735iL - Parts Car
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