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Thread: Looking to upgrade my coilovers - E36 M3

  1. #1
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    Looking to upgrade my coilovers - E36 M3

    Currently looking to upgrade my H&R coilovers to another set. Car is mainly used on the street and roll race events at Pocono. Can reaches over 160mph and braking into the turn is not fun.

    Not looking to break the bank but also want something of good quality. An already put together "kit" is something Im looking for, I have no idea about what spring rates to go with.

    What do you guys recommend?

    98 Fern Green M3/2 - Precision 6870/AR Designs Twin Scroll/RK/E85
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  2. #2
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    Looking to upgrade my coilovers - E36 M3

    Call TCKline or Ground Control and tell them about your intended use.
    I can’t think of any thing more divergent than getting groceries and braking into a banked turn @ ~160+ MP……


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  3. #3
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    Also, if you haven't you'll want to replace all suspension bushings and ball joints. Given that you have a turbo setup you'll probably want to go on the stiffer side for bushings to handle the forces at those speeds. Oh, and transmission/engine/diff mounts. You're going to have some thinking to do if you want to keep the car dual use, because trying to setup a high power E36 to be able to handle at those speeds at the track is not conducive to something that is comfortable or quiet on the street.

    I know I wouldn't want to be trying to brake from 160+ in an E36 in a track setting without both upgraded brakes (at least better cooling and track pads), and a really solid suspension from the wheels all the way to the chassis. Hell, I'm in the middle of polishing off the last of the suspension I haven't yet replaced on mine, and I only hit around 130 on my tracks.

    But yeah, for the coilovers I couldn't recommend Ground Control more. I love my hybrid street/track set. I got it with the 440/550 springs, but you may want stiffer for your application. Call them and they'll tell you what you need.
    1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy


  4. #4
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    Another vote for Koni/GC. Go for the race dampers so you can run high spring rates, and get the good camber plates. Very reasonably priced at about $2.3k, iirc.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluptgm3 View Post
    Call TCKline or Ground Control and tell them about your intended use.
    I can’t think of any thing more divergent than getting groceries and braking into a banked turn @ ~160+ MP……


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    TCKline seems to be out of my price range, Ive always looked at the Ground Control coilovers, might give them a shout.

    Quote Originally Posted by TostitoBandito View Post
    Also, if you haven't you'll want to replace all suspension bushings and ball joints. Given that you have a turbo setup you'll probably want to go on the stiffer side for bushings to handle the forces at those speeds. Oh, and transmission/engine/diff mounts. You're going to have some thinking to do if you want to keep the car dual use, because trying to setup a high power E36 to be able to handle at those speeds at the track is not conducive to something that is comfortable or quiet on the street.

    I know I wouldn't want to be trying to brake from 160+ in an E36 in a track setting without both upgraded brakes (at least better cooling and track pads), and a really solid suspension from the wheels all the way to the chassis. Hell, I'm in the middle of polishing off the last of the suspension I haven't yet replaced on mine, and I only hit around 130 on my tracks.

    But yeah, for the coilovers I couldn't recommend Ground Control more. I love my hybrid street/track set. I got it with the 440/550 springs, but you may want stiffer for your application. Call them and they'll tell you what you need.
    Even though the car only has 54K miles, I recently replaced all the suspension parts. The HR coilovers are about 15 year old thats why I want to replace them. Brakes have already been upgraded, Another GC vote. TY

    Quote Originally Posted by testify View Post
    Another vote for Koni/GC. Go for the race dampers so you can run high spring rates, and get the good camber plates. Very reasonably priced at about $2.3k, iirc.
    I need to start reading up on the difference between race and street dampers, I do need to have some weight transfer to the rear wheels to help out with traction (950whp/840wtq)

    98 Fern Green M3/2 - Precision 6870/AR Designs Twin Scroll/RK/E85
    2017 Toyota Tundra Crewmaxx - Family Whip
    2011 Pierce 75' Quint - Fire Apparatus West Islip FD

  6. #6
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    I have had my H&R coil-overs on my car since the car had 90k miles (installed in 2008) - the car has 181k miles now.
    They still ride the same as the day I installed them. They are just way too harsh for daily driving.
    If I had the money, I soooo would buy the Ground Control coil-overs (shown for the M5) for my car.
    However, these are ~$1900... Which is almost 1/3 to 1/2 the value of my car now...
    I wish I had the money for these though.

    Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by NY98M3 View Post
    I need to start reading up on the difference between race and street dampers, I do need to have some weight transfer to the rear wheels to help out with traction (950whp/840wtq)
    You might reach out in the FI or track/race subforums as I don't think most of us have experience setting up an E36 with that much power/torque. Things like aero, sway bars/camber/ride height, and wheel/tire choice. These are all going to have a huge affect on handling, as much or more than a change in coilover kit.

    If you go for something like Ground Control's race coilover set you're gonna get a nice stiff ride (which you need for that on the track) but you'll also get a bunch of NVH from the mounts, camber plates, stiff springs, etc... I'm not sure what the difference is in the dampers between the GC street/hybrid/race kits, other than the one that comes with double adjustable front dampers. I know GC gets them custom valved, so they may have different custom dampers for each kit. GC probably also has experience with cars like yours, so they can probably make recommendations for not only stuff you can get from them but also other things you should do to setup your car so it doesn't murder you.
    1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy


  8. #8
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    + 1 for Ground Control, just give them a call they're very helpful.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by NY98M3 View Post



    I need to start reading up on the difference between race and street dampers, I do need to have some weight transfer to the rear wheels to help out with traction (950whp/840wtq)

    The valving is the difference. They are designed with much better valving and can handle higher spring rates.

    You can't run higher than 450 or 500lb springs with the Koni Sport shocks, iirc.

  10. #10
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    I may be all wet, but just a suggestion. These cars are very sensitive to the front-rear rake angle during braking. Just a touch too much rake will make them really squirrely when I get on the binders hard and the car transfers too much weight to the front. I see lots of folks running about .75 inches higher at the rear (measured at the jack points) with stock horsepower. I'm wondering, with your power levels, if maybe you just need a touch less rake? It's a free option to try it out. Or if you think that will make it squat too much at WOT, maybe try shifting the brake bias more to the rear with a higher torque rear pad (assuming you have enough tire to control it).

    Generally, I don't try to use spring rates to address brake modulation issues. I use them (and sways) to address roll issues, as in oversteer and understeer. Adjustable dampers after that just to dial in the last bit of under/oversteer balance.

    Also, the E36 brake balance situation is heavily reliant on ABS, so make sure your pump isn't flaking out and the sensor wiring is all good, & blow the crud out of the hub sensor rings. Usually sensor wiring issues will pop the ABS light but you never know.

    At your speed levels, I'm also wondering whether the M3 calipers and rotors are up to the job under any circumstances, either in terms of straight-out capacity or appropriate balance. I did a similar speed/power incremental additions in an E21 and an E36, and the stock binders just weren't quite good enough for good modulation into the corners if I needed to scrub a lot of speed. Fortunately I didn't need BBKs. I just selected calipers and rotors from later, heavier BMW chassis.
    If God meant for man to motor-swap LS engines into track cars, He wouldn't have created Corvettes.

  11. #11
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    I would assume/hope that he has done a complete BBK upgrade with that amount of power. Stock brakes have no business handling those speeds in a track setting.
    1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy


  12. #12
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    E36M3 calipers and rotors are very capable w/the right PF pads and you are good to go. May require ducts to front brakes.


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  13. #13
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    I did a track event with a students S54 E36 last fall, the car was a beast, it was built with BW’s ISC coilovers, the car was totally locked down with that setup, all for $1000. I don’t think you can beat those for the $.

    As said, invest in brakes, this particular car also had a Wilwood BBK. The car also had aero, full rear wing and front splitter, all in all with this setup the old E36 felt good and kept up with the pack easily.
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