E32/Automatic Transmission fluid drain

[Mike Sanchez]

How do i drain and replace the automatic transmission fluid on a 1989 E32/750IL?....How do i adjust the self leveling system....

[shogun]

See DIY section https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...lication-Chart
Fluid needs to meet DEX-III standards.
Refill volume depends on what you get out
Fluid Level Checking Procedure for all Transmissions with a Dipstick:
1. The transmission temperature must be between 30°C and 50°C before checking can begin. *
2. The vehicle must be level and without load. With the engine running, switch on the air conditioning. This will increase the idle speed and ensure that all oil passages in the transmission are filled with oil.
3. Step on the brake firmly, apply parking brake fully and move the selector lever through each gear position, pausing briefly in each gear.
4. Pull out dipstick and wipe clean with a lint free cloth
5. Re-insert dipstick completely. Pull out dipstick and place bottom tip on a level surface, measure level from bottom tip as shown
If level too low, add fluid thru the dipstick pipe while engine is running and check level again.

note for 4HP22/24:
to check the level of your transmission fluid, you must run the car at least 30 minutes at highway speeds (not in winter) to warm up the transmission fluid to operating temperature. When you check the level the engine must be running/idling.


details are also shown here, •BMW Transmission Fluid level check http://www.europeantransmission.com/...MWtechinfo.htm
*4HP22/24 with dipstick and filling from top thru dipstick pipe: 1988 E32 owners manual states on page 63: automatic transmission, checking oil level: the car must be standing on a level surface with the transmission at operating temperature 80 degree Celsius. Allow the engine to idle with the selector lever at P or N. Pull out the dipstick, wipe it with a non-fluffy cloth and push it back to measure the oil level. It must be between the two notch marks.
The quantity of oil represented by the space between the two marks on the dipstick is approx. 0.3 liter when the transmission is at operating temperature. If necessary, add fresh ATF at the oil level check pipe.

self levelling adjustment is shown on my website below , fixes>>LAD

[MesoJevlar]

"4. Pull out dipstick and wipe clean with a lint free cloth"

Do you check transmission fluid level while the engine is idling?

[MesoJevlar]

Owner manual from my BMW 750, BJ 12/90

"The car must be standing on a level surface with the transmission at operating temperature (80°C). Allow the engine to idle with the selector level at P or N."

I am tempted to go out in the garage and see if the different temperatures matter when checking the transmission oil level.

[shogun]

SI B 24 01 98 Automatic Transmission September 2001 Service Engineering, This Service Information bulletins supersedes S.I. 24 01 98 dated January 1999.
SUBJECT Transmission Fluid Level Checking Procedure and Application Chart
MODEL All with the ZF and GM automatic transmission
SITUATION Checking the fluid level may be necessary if there is evidence of a leak, a complaint related to fluid level or in the event repairs are made to the transmission.
NOTE: USE ONLY THE TRANSMISSION FLUID THAT IS APPROVED FOR USE WITH THE SPECIFIC TRANSMISSION AS INDICATED IN THE ATTACHED FLUIDS APPLICATION CHART. ALL OTHER FLUIDS WILL CAUSE NON WARRANTABLE TRANSMISSION DAMAGE.
PROCEDURE
Fluid Level Checking Procedure for all Transmissions without a Dipstick:
1. The transmission temperature must be between 30°C and 50°C before checking can begin. Use the DIS or the MODIC to determine the transmission temperature.
2. The vehicle must be level and without load. With the engine running, switch on the air conditioning. This will increase the idle speed and ensure that all oil passages in the transmission are filled with oil.
3. Step on the brake firmly, apply parking brake fully and move the selector lever through each gear position, pausing briefly in each gear.
4. With the engine running and the selector lever in Park position, remove the filler plug located on the transmission (see picture for location). If a small stream of oil runs out, the fluid level is correct.
5. If no oil runs out when the filler plug is removed, the fluid level is too low. Add oil until it starts to overflow.
6. With the engine running, reinstall the oil filler plug and tighten to proper torque. (Refer to section F below for proper tightening torque)

Fluid Level Checking Procedure for all Transmissions with a Dipstick (As of 02/91 the THM R1 transmissions are not equipped with a dipstick):
1. The transmission temperature must be between 30°C and 50°C before checking can begin. Use the DIS or the MODIC to determine the transmission temperature.
2. The vehicle must be level and without load. With the engine running, switch on the air conditioning. This will increase the idle speed and ensure that all oil passages in the transmission are filled with oil.
3. Step on the brake firmly, apply parking brake fully and move the selector lever through each gear position, pausing briefly in each gear.
4. Pull out dipstick and wipe clean with a lint free cloth
5. Reinsert dipstick completely. Pull out dipstick and place bottom tip on a level surface, measure level from bottom tip as shown
Compare measurement and oil temperature reading from MoDiC or DIS with Table below.
Oil °C ........20.. 25.. 30.. 35.. 40.. 45.. 50.. 55.. 60.. 65.. 70.. 75.. 80.. 85.. 90
MIN (mm) ..3.... 5.... 8... 11.. 13.. 14.. 16.. 17.. 19.. 21.. 22.. 24.. 26.. 29.. 31
MAX (mm) 15.. 17.. 20.. 22.. 25.. 26... 27.. 28...29.. 32.. 34.. 36.. 38.. 41.. 43
6. Add additional oil if needed.
Reinsert dipstick completely. Pull out dipstick and look at level. Level should be between MAX and MIN marks as shown.
Amount of oil between MAX and MIN marks is 0.3 lit (0.6 pts)
On vehicles with a dipstick tube if transmission fluid is needed use only Dexron III.

Adding Oil after Transmission Repairs:
1. With the engine stopped, add oil to the transmission until it overflows.
2. Insert the filler plug and tighten by hand. Place the selector lever in Park position and start the engine.
3. Follow the fluid level checking procedure as described under step A or B.
Notes on fluid level checking and adding transmission oil:
Whenever all lifetime use oils (Shell LA 2634, Esso LT71141 or Texaco ETL 7045 or 8072B) are to be collected in a clean container and reused .
It is preferred to check the transmission fluid level at 30°C, this way the transmission will hold extra oil versus topping off at 50°C.
If the transmission temperature rises above 50 ºC during the fluid level checking procedure, the resulting oil level will be too low.
Have necessary equipment, oil pump and transmission fluid available before starting the fluid level checking
procedure.
http://netisak.lpru.ac.th/bmw_e34_di...pplication.pdf

[SharkGill]

I need to replace my selector shaft seal as I believe I must have damaged the one I fitted previously as I have a leak. I’m not too sure how much fluid I’ve lost over time. Can I use a temperature gun on the sump to determine the 30-50c fluid temp or does it have to be done via DIS etc.. ?

[shogun]

No need for a temperature gun, "handwarm" is o.k. As long as you can touch the trans pan with your bare hands, it will be o.k.

note for 4HP22/24:
to check the level of your transmission fluid, you must run the car at least 30 minutes at highway speeds (not in winter) to warm up the transmission fluid to operating temperature. When you check the level the engine must be running/idling.

[SharkGill]

Perfect thanks Shogun. Roughly how long does it take to reach that temp? Ambient temperature here will be around 15c

[shogun]

You can start immy at 15 degree C and it will very fast come to 20, 30 degree C, check with the dipstick min-max marks based on these different temperatures, so then you know:
Reinsert dipstick completely. Pull out dipstick and place bottom tip on a level surface, measure level from bottom tip as shown
Compare measurement and oil temperature reading with Table below.
Oil °C ........20.. 25.. 30.. 35.. 40.. 45.. 50.. 55.. 60.. 65.. 70.. 75.. 80.. 85.. 90
MIN (mm) ..3.... 5.... 8... 11.. 13.. 14.. 16.. 17.. 19.. 21.. 22.. 24.. 26.. 29.. 31
MAX (mm) 15.. 17.. 20.. 22.. 25.. 26... 27.. 28...29.. 32.. 34.. 36.. 38.. 41.. 43
6. Add additional oil if needed.

here is another long instruction 4HP24 https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...os-(4HP24-E-H)
Critical note for 4HP22/24: to check the level of your transmission fluid, you must run the car at least 30 minutes at highway speeds (not in winter) to warm up the transmission fluid to operating temperature. When you check the level the engine must be running/idling.

[Annddrriy]

oil pump housing.png

No need for a temperature gun, "handwarm" is o.k. As long as you can touch the trans pan with your bare hands, it will be o.k.

14MX1.5 and 20MX1.5 thread size plugs on oil input shaft stator housing which is for to connect automatic machine to chance oil completely. Two plugs small by M14x1.5 one is for A clutch pressure and another is for torque converter pressure release. Two plugs bigger size M20x1.5 one is for line pressure and another one is for vacuum to pick up oil from any canister. With automatic machine fluid flow in to the transmission pump suction plug and fluid flow out side of the transmission line pressure plug to machine's canister while engine running to make oil change in automatic transmission.

[Cactuar]

Can you reword your question a bit as it's difficult to understand.

[shogun]

I also do not understand the question. On the 4HP22 the ATF pan has a drain plug and filling is done thru the hole of the dipstick.
Flushing and to get all ATF out on the 4HP22/24 is shown here https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ns-flush-setup

[Annddrriy]

Between Transmission oil pan and bellhouzing there is oil pump houzing and one oil cooler line connect it to it and if you look lover you will see four plugs you can open them by elan key only. My question what those plugs use for ?

[shogun]

maybe you check in the ETK, there are 2 connections for ATF cooling http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E3...n_oil_cooling/
then the ATF dipstick http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E3..._transmission/
then the engine oil cooler line from oil filter to the separate oil cooler http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E3...owse/radiator/
that is all I find. Can you make a picture and post it? Then probably a 735 owner can tell you.

[Annddrriy]

Look at 13 and 11 numbers of the pictures you will see screw plugs.251.png I think dealer do proper transmission oil change with automatic pump through those plugs as all bmw E32 has no filler end to put oil in transmission like an engine has. It has dipstick to check oil level but not to put oil in to.

[shogun]

I never touch these ones on my 750, to drain the ATF I use the oil pan drain plug and to fill I use the dipstick, filling from top is much easier. But you are probably right, maybe a dealer fill/drain connection with automatic pump, I googled a bit and found the one called E23 E24 E28 E30 E31 E32 OIL SUMP PAN DRAIN PLUG 24401215398..
But the ATF pan should be lower than these bolts.

[Annddrriy]

I never touch these ones on my 750, to drain the ATF I use the oil pan drain plug and to fill I use the dipstick, filling from top is much easier. But you are probably right, maybe a dealer fill/drain connection with automatic pump, I googled a bit and found the one called E23 E24 E28 E30 E31 E32 OIL SUMP PAN DRAIN PLUG 24401215398..
But the ATF pan should be lower than these bolts.

If you just drain oil from oil pan but can not drain from torque converter and by doing ATF exchanger machine will change completely all fluid.

[Annddrriy]

Oil pump housing port connection. What does T/C Release mean ? What do you think where is good idea to connect hoses in and out when automatic machine change oil ?37552129.png

[shogun]

I assume that when you remove that bolt marked as TC release, the pressure from torque converter ATF will be released and fluid drains out that hole till the pressure is gone, so maybe half of the TC ATF will come out, my theory.
Connection for changing ATF? maybe 1 to pump suction. Never done it that way and never seen instructions how to.

[whiskychaser]

They will be test ports. A machine will be useful because you can set how fast it fills in relation to how fast it drains. And it will have a handy place to put the ATF. But it is still going to use the cooling lines to fill and empty. Don't see how you can get around using the trans's pump to circulate it

[Annddrriy]

Why they should use cooler lines if there is on input shaft stator housing extra 4 ports Pump Suction and T/C Release and "A" Clutch and Line Pressure port. I would use Pump Suction port it will suck new oil in to the transmission and Line Pressure port to drain old oil from the transmission but when machine is starts to operate same time start the engine.

[whiskychaser]

I would use Pump Suction port it will suck new oil in to the transmission and Line Pressure port to drain old transmission oil but when machine is starts to operate same time start the engine. Isn't great idea ? What do you think about ?

If you use those ports, the ATF will just go round the pump and come back out again. It is not going to circulate through the trans and replace the old ATF. Out of interest, what do the instructions for the machine say you should do?

[shogun]

If you just drain oil from oil pan but no drain from torque converter and by doing ATF exchanger machine will change completely all fluid.

with our DIY method to flush, that means to remove the ATF pan, connect the ATF filter suction pipe with a long hose which ends in a bucket with fresh ATF, then start the engine and run it thru all gears, after a short time you will have the system completely flushed and when only fresh ATF splashes out of the open trans, the system is cleaned and no more old ATF is inside the complete trans system incl. all clutch packs, TC, ATF cooler lines and ATF cooler , that is the easiest and fastest https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ns-flush-setup
Attachment 673848

[PJs e32]

From what I understand, these ports are for testing pressures only
If you try to suck oil in the pump suction port, it will still suck oil from inside the pan
And if you drain oil from the line pressure port, you may cause transmission damage, due to lack of oil lubrication.
I wouldn't risk it, just change the oil a couple of times, I went through near 20litres of oil when I did mine, still cheaper than a trans rebuild.
PJ

[Annddrriy]

Instruction for the machine are simple. Pump takes oil in and push oil out that is all. You actually right about those ports it's very close each to other. But if it will done by this way it will be just mix old fluid with new. For out of interest why those ports made for ? Yes one port might be for to check pressure but still 3 port left it must be for something that is why it was made for some purpose. What about Line Pressure port if to use it instead Cooler Out and Cooler Return will be T/C Release ? Any right answer will be appreciate a lot. Thanks in advance ! If machine will suck oil in from pump suction port, it will still suck oil from inside the pan if oil inside but if you make it empty oil pan than can not suck oil right and we need one more port witch is line pressure port to push it oil out but to not touch cooler ports lines it must seat there in their place. What do you think guy which port will be good to push it in new oil in ?