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Thread: Things to do during a clutch job?

  1. #1
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    Things to do during a clutch job?

    Changing the clutch on my 2005 330xi 6MT (130,000 miles). I would greatly appreciate input on what else I should do while the transmission is out. I would also be interested in people's thoughts on what to do in terms of clutch and flywheel--leaning toward Valeo single mass.

  2. #2
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    Rear main seal, we put one in seamed to work well

  3. #3
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    Guibo, center support bearing, shifter linkage/bushings, transmission mounts, possibly engine mounts, starter.
    Stock parts usually work out to be best, especially so for a stock car.

  4. #4
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    check the flywheel - make sure if it needs resurfacing.

  5. #5
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    Thank you, guys--making a list. Any thoughts on the clutch/flywheel combination I should use?

  6. #6
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    The Valeo setup has been talked about in this forum several times. It works just fine.
    Consider rebuilding the shifter as well.
    Do not try to resurface the flywheel.
    It would be an ideal time to do mounts for engine and transmission.
    While not directly related - at this age/mileage the cooling system is due if not already done.

    You would be in the area for oxygen sensors if you wanted.

    Agreed on rear main seal if it is showing signs of leaking.

    Could do clutch hose too.
    '95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!

  7. #7
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    +1 on the recommendations above....EXCEPT for resurfacing the flywheel. You do NOT resurface a dual mass flywheel.

    Make sure to buy your flywheel and clutch kit and associated parts from the same quality BMW specialty source. If you buy from multiple sources, parts can get mismatched, and it will always be the other guy's fault.

    If the shifter can be moved up and down at all, or if it seems sloppy in any way, make sure to replace the white plastic shifter ball bushing while the trans is out.


    EDIT:
    Oops, shadowpuck pretty much covered everything I just said, and more.
    Last edited by bmwdirtracer; 10-29-2017 at 06:55 PM.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  8. #8
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    Placed my orders for the following:

    BMW Clutch Kit (Dual-mass Flywheel Conversion) - Valeo 835101
    Universal Flex Disc Kit
    Shifter Rebuild Kit
    Engine Mounts - Left & Right
    Rear Creankshaft Seal
    Clutch fork Lever
    Performance Clutch Fork Pivot Pin
    Transmission Mount Bushings

    Thanks for the help!
    Last edited by Reasoned1; 10-30-2017 at 07:24 PM.

  9. #9
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    I really hope you bought all that stuff at a good BMW specialist supplier. "Universal Flex Disc Kit" is really scary. There is no such thing as universal.

    If you bought this stuff somewhere like Rock Auto, cancel the order now, and order from a good supplier.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    I really hope you bought all that stuff at a good BMW specialist supplier. "Universal Flex Disc Kit" is really scary. There is no such thing as universal.

    If you bought this stuff somewhere like Rock Auto, cancel the order now, and order from a good supplier.
    That was ECS Tuning, and the pic looked like Tier 1 stuff. Yeah, I think "universal" is more a reference to it being a form of universal joint--not general application.
    Last edited by Reasoned1; 10-31-2017 at 06:29 AM.

  11. #11
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    Deep breath bmwdirtracer, Universal Flex Disc is a name for the guibo.

    Sounds like you picked up one of our compressive kits, you should be on the right track!

  12. #12
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    I picked up a lot more than that from you guys!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by ECSTuning View Post
    Deep breath bmwdirtracer, Universal Flex Disc is a name for the guibo.

    Sounds like you picked up one of our compressive kits, you should be on the right track!

    Not to worry, James...ECS is one of the top-of-the-line BMW specialist suppliers I always recommend. Note that it was Rock Auto and similar generic suppliers that I was warning against.

    I do recall BMW calling the Flex Disc a "universal joint", now that you mention it, but I and most of the other BMW guys I know usually save that term for the metal part of the same name, to avoid confusion.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  14. #14
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    Finally got 'er back--OMG... My mechanic, whom I love dearly, confessed to breaking some sort of aluminum shifting fork during the job, and it took two full weeks to source the part, and THAT was due to sheer luck in finding an obsolete version of the part in some back room of a backwater shop in Alabama--couldn't even get it from Germany due to some sort of plant shutdown. Fortunately for him, it was only a $35 part. Anyway, he said it was a tight fit, but it's running very well. I changed transmission fluid from whatever was in it to MTL, and I had him rebuild the shifter, and it's generally shifting pretty well but seems to fight me a little when cold, and it DOES get cold here in Vermont. I think I'll try ATF next go-round. The clutch feels good... the single mass is a little more demanding but, if I do my part, it rewards me--so I like it. I even caught a subsequent (figures...) special at ECS (22% off--$390--which is STILL ON) and picked up a spare.

    I also got lazy and had him install new tensioner and idler pulleys and and some UUC power pulleys while he was at it. I like to think they make a wee bit of difference...

    Thanks for the input!
    Last edited by Reasoned1; 12-12-2017 at 03:37 AM.

  15. #15
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    MTL is a great fluid but it’s a bit thick for the northern climes. I recommend you change it to Redline D4ATF.
    Last edited by MarcoZandrini; 12-12-2017 at 07:31 AM.

  16. #16
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    Suggest you go to the ATF now as those synchros are working very hard in that stiff oil and it's not getting any warmer soon.
    Last edited by ross1; 12-12-2017 at 11:23 AM.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  17. #17
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    I'll consider it, but I do such a good job of double-clutching and rev-matching, I don't think those synchros are doing anything at all. ; )

    Seriously, I think I'll do that... live and learn. Thanks for the insight.

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