Keep it. Get a pex fitting and replace the clip. Get some better hose
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1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
what i meant to say is manifold>icv>catch can with filter, so it doesnt have pressure in ccv because it has a open breather with filter.
but i will keep the icv and buy one of those mishimoto couplers with 1 fitting,
Is the stock CCV enough or will i need to tap another one in the valve cover?
btw if anyone knows, as im doing a bottom mount and i would like to keep A/c because here is very hot in the summer, what do you (bottom mount guys) usually do for the intake piping? under de subframe? i saw once someone that smashed the pipe to get it through the anti-roll bar i think its called? and the a/c compressor... what do you guys think?
its in!
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new injectors
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new waterless coolant
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i tried to prime the engine earlier today by doing 10 second cranking phases but still no oil pressure...
im going mad... i primed the pump after installing it but i had to turn the engine upside down to instal the pan and it was like that a full day.
i poured the oil in the filter housing and tried to rotate the engine at the same time.
still nothing what can i do more?
thx
Last edited by rezhak; 11-22-2017 at 05:26 PM. Reason: misstype
I was trying again today to build oil pressure... still nothing.
so i was trying to find a way to get oil to the oil pump by inspecting another filter housing that i had laying around and i noticed the 1 way valve to the oil pump channel... and i thought well s*ht.
So i will share what i did to get the oil pressure going:
-1st i removed the alternator (2 bolts)
-then i proceded to remove the bolts from the steering pump (only the front ones are needed i left the sump one but you can remove if you want)
-next i removed the oil filter housing with the cap and bolt on (very important to leave it on or you will spill oil everywhere)
-next you will have 3 holes with 3 openings Top one, Middle one and Bottom one on the block.
-i brought my (that thingie you put oil in it and then pump with finger?? normally its red, but cant remember the name)"it" and started pouring oil to the bottom opening that has a large hole to the bottom of the block.
-i started rotating the engine very slow anti-clockwise until it starts giving you bubbles.
-then i started rotating it clockwise (if the oil comes up to fast then its not primed yet. its the air pushing the oil.) until it gave a consistent flow. took about 2 full rotations of the engine.
-after that i assmbled everything again checked the watch and i did it in about 23minutes.
-i removed oil cap now.
-bolted oil cap bolt without cap and with filter in
-poured oil to the brim
-quckly installed cap again so the oil doesnt go away to the sump.
-then i connected the battery
-did a 5 second cranking
and the next thing i knew the second time cranking the demon oil light goes off!!!! yey
and now comes the questions...
How much oil pressure should a m50 with m50non vanos pump have at 500 rpm?
Great information but your creative solution reminded me of something that may help people that have a similar problem in the future. If you take the cap off the oil filter housing there are 2 round check/bypass valves and a rectangular drain in between. 1 comes from the pump an opens with pressure. The valves are there to trap oil in the filter when you shut the car off for restart and to bypass the filter if it gets plugged. They all go through those galleys you mentioned and they are spring loaded. You can manually open and close them from the housing. You could do this to prime the pump going forward is my guess.
I dont know if i understood well but the valve is a 1 way valve, so it doesnt let the oil flow back to the pump which is why i removed the housing. The channels are interlocked together? after i inspected the housing laying around i thought they were all seperate? i didnt know its that you can open the 1 way valve with the housing in place. How do you do that?
thanks for your help anyways and hope you can help some1 in the future with the same problem i had
Guys, i need help lol.
im having a issue where the car has almost 43psi oil pressure at cold, but when it warms up it drops to around 14psi or less sometimes and only goes up to 43 again when at 2k rpm.
What could this be? bad oil pump? i completely dismantled the pump and put everything new and even added some washers in the pump relief valve to pump up the pressure, but now its oddly low...
thx guys
Oh ok then. im relieved now .
By the way do you guys know if lighter flywheels do make the car shaky at idle?
mine is shaky as hell. I managed to get it to idle at 800 rpm with megasquirt but it gets so bad that the rpm starts to jump and it dies eventually. Now its at 900 rpm but still shakes alot :/
ehm i dont want to sound dumb but, my car is timing chain driven so i cant use a timing light to check it, right? right? or can i?
i didnt change anything in the tune from the last time it was running with exception to the injector parameters and iac settings. and it ran fine b4 i rebuilt it.
?? i ordered the timing tool from bmw cuz a friend told me to, but last time i checked it was timed correctly... with a piece of "straight" metal.. can it be incorrect timing?
I meant the ignition timing, not the cam timing. There is a mark on the front of the harmonic balencer showing top dead center, and a mark on the timing cover that is used to check ignition timing with a timing light. The reason I suggested it is because the symptoms your describe sound like the ignition timing is retarded. If you had it running before on the same tune thats unlikely unless you accidently swapped a vanos and non vanos balancer. If you run it for about 30 seconds do all 6 exhaust runners feel the same temperature?
Last edited by someguy2800; 12-05-2017 at 03:40 PM.
Not one of my prouder moments but I've installed the vanos incorrectly and gotten a similar very rough idle.
I would check that you did the cam timing procedure correctly then verify your delivering the ignition timing you think you are like sg is saying.
hm i had a vanos balancer laying around but i dont think i switched them by mistake, but ill check anyways. Cam timing incorrect is possible because i just slapped the cams in the trays and checked with a piece of metal between the two of them, they might be a bit misaligned, but i already ordered the bmw tool so ill check later. Regarding the temperature theres a interesting thing, i measured the temperature between all 6 cylinders and 5 and 6 were running hotter, which can mean a intake leak maybe?
i have a question, while timing the cams, in a non vanos head, you put the holes in the cams aligned in the center of the sprokets or more to the side that is pushed from the main sproket? i checked before doing this but got 2 kinds of answers so i went with the most logical one which is holes near the end of the opening so you are sure it doesnt slide while rotating.. is this right?
thx once again for all your help
With a non vanos as long as the bolts are not up against one side of the slots in the sprocket when you install the tensioner it will be fine.
noI changed my exhaust from stock to 3" straight pipe, do you think this can be 1 of the reasons it shakes? cuz it has incorrect timing now?
They don't need to be centered, the bolt just cant be hitting the side of the slot. Unless the cam timing is way way off I think your probably looking at the wrong thing.
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