will continue to add to this thread as I have questions and pix of pulling my '86 engine out (250K) and putting in a newer - '87 (110K) .... also in thread RIP.HOPE NOT BUT MAYBE...
doing all new hoses / fuel& water / all new gaskets - all orifices / timing belt and tensioner / head bolts / radiator replacement
1- Donor 87 was auto ( transmission is avail see plate ) ?20171021_155809.jpgIMG_05261.jpg
2- not planning on spending the money to pull the valves and cam but is there any inexpensive update i can do to clean up the valve seats etc ... while I have the head off .. ? no sign of overheat - was a collision car - no water in the oil - no shown plug issues - crank and all lifters seems to work when cranked manually - no bad sounds ...
3- same for the intake manifold - any good preventive stuff to do?
4- any good diagrams on where everything goes for the hoses and the vacuum lines to insure my memory and pix are correct.
as of 10-25-17 just pulling the 87 apart now and ordering parts
10-25-17
1 - pulled the head and have many pix of the condition etc - had one head bolt that was mauled - got a tool set from Lowes that removed the bolt with ease...great tool
2- need some advice on servicing the valves and cylinders without having to do a full valve / lower rebuild job...any comments welcome...cylinder sleeves are smooth with piston heads lightly carbon coated but all looks OK to a newbee on such things..
3- attempted to remove the Lower Timing Cover after the pulling the water pump and was wondering how to get the cover off the block - it is held from coming off the crank shaft pulley insert - is that insert threaded on the crank shaft? let me know please or direct me to the procedure to do so ..
Last edited by VINNIE86; 10-27-2017 at 09:31 AM. Reason: Photos
Funny, I just logged on to start a thread about my 1986 325E project. Just bought her today. Good luck.
"Life is too Short to drive boring cars"
1986 325E
1989 325iX (Long term 5-speed/refresh project)
1993 MB 300E
1995 MB E320
2000 Audi TT (Winter AWD snow beast)
2007 Porsche Cayman S (Summer car)
2009 VW Touareg
see attached
no valve hit the relief cuts in the piston tops? some in the pics look like they had marks from the valves, 3rd or 4th piston in the 3rd pic
No e30s again.
I was in the process of restoring one and had to stop. However I am putting the starter back on mine and attached/behind the starter is a bracket with two connectors in it that are similar in design to FI connectors but have three wires each.
Anyone know what those are as I need to order them as mine "disintegrated" as I was putting it back together.
Addl piston photos - originals may have been distorted due to carbon build up - not seeing any piston marking but I may be wrong - all seem to be smooth once carbon is removed - no dimples
Attachment 614101Attachment 614102Attachment 614103
did find a broken lower timing cover and to get it it I have to pull the main nut off - 420 nM torque - 310 in/lbs ...yuck
20171026_194640.jpg
I think most people use an impact, if you happen to have one, for that large crank nut. I think when I did it, years ago, I used a breaker with a long pipe over it
No e30s again.
cleaned all the carbon and found the exhaust valves have left some marks on the crescent relief where they are supposed fit onto the top of the piston ...
There is a slight mar and now compression at that point ... can that mark or bur be dremelled and smothed without major impact ? its like a very small overhang into the seating area on the piston
let me know please...all the intake areas look OK from what I can tell ...
yes, just smooth it with something.
when my wife's timing belt broke, many moons ago, it left little ridges in the valve reliefs. I just smoothed them to cut down on hot spots and never had a problem. it was the first m20 I had ever heard that didn't have a tick when it was put back together with a replacement (junkyard) head.
No e30s again.
Looking at the schedule - the parts arrive this week - will begin the rebuild process but wanted to see where I can find a set of the electrical schematics for the 325i since that wire harness is what I planned to use instead of the 325e harness ...will need to figure out what pins and conns are different plus the color codes ...
any suggestion is appreciated ... or thoughts on how to proceed
regards
http://www.wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm
http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/i...hp/ECU_Pinouts
Which ECU are you using?
I will get a ECU model model number but it is the one that was in the '87 325i - still hooked up - and has the wire harness..so I am hoing its just plug and play ...
with all items and the head off the block - is there any definitive A-Z information on what to re-build first - or alt least to put on in sequence - Just looking to now save time replacing all the items back o the block from returning the head to the correct place thru the intake manifold with out having too much put on an take off?...
thanks for any help -
still looking for an electrical schematic that makes things easier also ...
regards
OK - so the head has been milled and is set to go back in - no issues from the EXPERTS...
Transmission :
heres a new thought - I have a "spare" transmission also from an '86 325e that I can swap into the car - it has only 110k on it vs my OEM orig 250K ... talked to multiple persons who say that there is no good way to tear the unit down since the parts may not be available and BMW makes it fairly simple for a rebuilt trade ($$$)...not sure I believe that...but there is also a transmission place that says he can "split it" and check every thing for $200... looking for thoughts on the options - and what to ask if i have the guy split it...
let me know ...
regards
If your original transmission shifted smoothly and was problem free, I'd put that back in. Do you know the history of your spare or is it an unknown? I'd hesitate to use unknowns when I have good parts.
If your e30 runs bad, switch to Megasquirt first. Then try new spark plugs, cap and rotor, wires, oxygen sensor, crank shaft position sensor, coolant temp sensor, air flow meter, idle control valve, throttle position sensor, digital motor electronics unit, harmonic balancer, fuel injectors, engine harness...
Attachment 614984prior to really putting a full press on the crank nut I want to insure that I don't really screw it up
attached is pix of the bolt - assume its right hand thread ( loosen to the left)...have pinned the fly wheel on the rear of the engine and have used a std breaker bar and a 22mm socket - have soaked it with PB...
just checking prior to doing the deed
also is there a simple way to remove the inner oil seal on the timing cover that comes off if you get the crank nut off - not on the crank that is loose and will remove easily already behind the cover ..cover is in the pix also
so here is the after :
After Breaking 1 Breaker Bar
After breaking 1 Socket
After cussing like I mean it..
not sure why these pix are upside down.. they were all correct when I uploaded them
Where it began ====>>>.Start Pix (2).jpgAttachment 615064
Last edited by VINNIE86; 11-09-2017 at 10:56 PM.
FYI...latest pix ...20171113_224624.jpg20171113_224615.jpg
Couple of issues I wanted clarification on as I am doing this conversion from a 86 325e to a 87 325i engine -
1) the 87 was an automatic - is there any reason that my Getrag transmission does not just bolt right in - any seals that need to be changed from the 325i or adaptors or bushing I need to be aware to make sure that the fit is correct ...
2) the 325i is calling out a 12121717375 Ignition wire that has suppressor capacitor type ring on it - that is not used in the '86...will i be able to run the Motronic from the 87 without it or is it necessary ...thought maybe it was a convertible sedan issue - but not sure
3) My over zealous helper torqued the head way past the recc torq limits and was wondering my options - and ramifications for : these have been in for 72 hrs and not run yet...
A) leaving them alone
B) loosening them and retorque to spec
thanks for any insight
regards
Last edited by VINNIE86; 11-14-2017 at 02:26 PM.
1. I've never done the swap, so I can't give you a firm answer. However my understanding is you'll just need to add the pilot bearing and swap over all the manual parts. Be aware the bearing design was changed to a sealed design so all the dust shields, etc. in the parts system aren't used.
2. That's an inductor on the #6 wire. Motronic does not use it. It's part of the diagnostic system for the BMW dealer service computers. Even then, it's doubtful they still have those service machines around anymore.
3. Head bolts are a stretch bolt design which means you torque to value and then turn an additional angle. You can't loosen and retorque as the bolts have stretched. I'd remove and replace. Good news is you shouldn't have to replace the head gasket.
"Howdy, Folks!"
1986 Delphin 528e - Roof rack equipped lumber hauler.
1989 Zinnoberrot 325iX Sedan - I miss this car. (Deceased)
1998 Avus Blau 328iC - Someone else's project now
2008 Platinum-Beige X3 3.0si - Current project
2012 Alpine White X3 xDrive35i - My new snowmobile.
2020 Estoril Blue 440i xDrive cabrio - This car is a blast to drive.
Thanks for your insight -
do you think that the std wire set without the inductor will be just fine then?
thanks again for your comments
regrds
so here is a couple of questions from working on things this weekend:
1) my 325e never had an oil cooler - is it required or just nice to have on 325i ... can I plug the oil filter bracket where they interconnect next the oil filter and be OK?oil cooler used.jpgOil Filter-Cooler.JPG
2) where does the oil cooler mount on the radiator and does that then mean a specific shroud is required that positions it in the right place ?
3) there is an extra Themostat assy TStat extra.jpgthat is also associated with the 325i - question is from where to where?
4) the rear of the head coolant port - what coolant pipe hooks into this - Head Rear Cooling Inlet.JPGi think this connects to the throttle body but not sure if there is addl tees from/to it ...pipe #15 maybe?Throttle Pipes.JPG
trying to make sure I have the cooling pipes going to /from the correct places...
Any help would be accepted ... no mention of either in the Bentley or REAL OEM ...just shows the diagram
found this EGR relay hooked up on the Wire Harness to its connector but not sure where it hooks up to and from - is it between the charcoal filter canister and the incoming fuel rail? REALOEM says it is not used on my vin but it was on the WH when I pulled the engine ...PN 0280142150 and it has a fuel line attached to it..
EGR relay.jpg
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