So have never done a build thread so please bear with me during this process. I was asked if there was anywhere that I had the build of this car posted, so I figured I would put it up here as well as my instagram.
That being said, I'm building an e36 coupe for the 2018 season of Just Drift: Top Drift Pro-Am.
Here are the specs on the car.
Chassis:
Subframe mount reinforments
Solid Aluminum Subframe bushings
Front and Rear strut tower reinforcements
FD Spec Cage (Still has to be dropped off at our cage builder)
Suspension:
Feal Suspension Dampers with Swift springs (10kg/mm F 8kg/mm R)
Oem front sway bar with upgraded endlinks
Garage 56 Dual Shear Rear swaybar
Garage 56 Rear Camber Arms
Poly RTABs
Poly offset FLCA bushings
SLR Super Angle Kit
Brakes:
Centric high carbon cryo treated rotors
Hawk Performance Ceramic Pads
Condor Speed shop stainless braided lines with extended front lines.
Engine/Trans:
GM L33 (Aluminum 5.3L)
Texas Speed 228R cam
Hardened Pushrods
Dual Valve springs with Titanium retainers
LS2 timing chain
Mellings High Pressure/High Volume Oil pump
LS2 intake
Holley Performance 92mm throttle body
F.A.S.T. 46lb injectors
Vorshlag Fuel line kit
Aeromotive Stealth 340lph fuel pump
Hooker Blackheart Shorty headers (1 7/8 runners)
ACT Clutch and Flywheel
ZL1 TR6060 6spd
Interior:
Sparco Pro ADV seats
Custom Billet BE Performance Programmable Switch Panel
Grip Royal Steering wheel
Custom Shifter and linkage
Garage 56 Hand brake
Custom door panels and rear seat delete
So I started this build about 4 months ago ish. The goal being to build a 400hp drift car with with reliability being paramount. That being said lots of the parts being used are to insure that reliability as much as I can. Aside from the long block and transmission, everything on the motor is brand new OEM GM or Upgraded aftermarket.
Last edited by fishtail; 10-25-2017 at 11:31 PM.
Speed>Elegance
Yassss!!!
Which pan are you using? If it's the Holley swap pan I highly recommend adding the optional trap door baffle. This things gonna be rad! Do I see in your sig pic that you also have a FC?
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Found the uploader, but I really don't like the format......
Last edited by fishtail; 10-23-2017 at 10:11 PM.
Speed>Elegance
most of us are just hosting the photos elsewhere and linking, unfortunately since photobucket nuked itself the options are limited. I'm using flickr and it seems to work OK.
and ah damn. I've got an LS6 e46 and an LS2 FC, I was gonna say twins lol
I would skip the Delrin RTAB and use spherical bearings there instead.
Jason McDaniel at Vorshlag
+1 to that, my delrin ones fell apart after a year. Junk
The control arm twists too much inside the bushing. I don't get why people make poly. It just inherently will not work for this application. SLR sells spherical stuff. It's not only the tits, but you can adjust caster with it to your heart's content.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Yep, a lot of people think we only recommend the rubber bushings with limiters because we won't install poly bushings. And Delrin is worse, as it is far too stiff and resists deformation, and also does not recover like poly. But for a dedicated track car, I'd use spherical if the installation and maintenance is something you can keep up with.
Jason McDaniel at Vorshlag
I've had great luck with my Powerflex RTABS, but I would love to upgrade them to spherical at some point
Had great luck with Delrin RTABs for 3+ years of very harsh track abuse. Still holding up just fine. As for the FLCA bushings, we may upgrade in the future but not until we have an issue with these.
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I'm wrong, they are not delrin. They are poly
Speed>Elegance
I personally think the bimmerworld Spherical RTAB design is the one to go with. Uses Sealed OEM bmw camber arm and upper arm knuckled bearings in a machined housing for the RTAB. Those bearings last a long time and well if you ever need to replace them you can pop them out of the housing and the bearings are $15 each on pelican parts.
http://www.bimmerworld.com/E46-E36-3...aring-Kit.html
Has anyone tried building a lower frame side trailing arm mount that doesn't tuck into the chassis so far and then cutting the stock bushing end off the trailing arm? You could then weld a threaded bung into the arm for a heim or rebuildable flex joint? You could pretty easily incorporate toe adjustment into the design by changing misalignment spacers orientation per side.
I wonder how bad the anti-squat numbers would be doing this? I figure the arm would be located 2.75 - 3.00 inches below it's current location.
Is the anti-squat measured from the angle from the lower control arm pivot to the chassis mount or is it a theoretical centerline of the hub to the mounting hole at the chassis mount?
imgur for pix
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