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Thread: INPA Help Needed- Rochester NY

  1. #1
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    INPA Help Needed- Rochester NY

    Hello All,
    I know this is a long shot as I am a newbie to this forum, but if anyone in the Rochester NY area happens to see this post and has a functioning version of INPA I would really appreciate your help!

    I have a 2000 bmw 540i/6 which I have gotten far enough along in diagnosing with my own versions of the INPA to know that EWS is throwing a code for tamper protection, and will need realigning of the rolling codes (EWS Alignment). Whenever I go to complete the task the software shows and error "nosuchresult" or something to that affect.
    I have tried installing multiple versions of INPA and completed the soldering of the 7/8 pins on the connector still to no avail. All connections, relays, and the infamous corroded passenger footwell distribution block have been repaired and tested.

    If anyone in the general area sees this and is willing to lend a hand I would seriously appreciate it. I am located at RIT and will happily provide compensation to any party willing to come by.

    Thanks,
    romah

  2. #2
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    You need to be doing it at the 20-pin port under the hood (if you have one).
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  3. #3
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    I see, well so far I have only been using the obd II port. Is there a specific cable which would be better suited for the e39, or rather one that you know to be verified as having worked well in the past?

    Thanks for the response!

  4. #4
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    Your current cable plus a $6 "BMW 20-pin adapter" will work fine for your car/desired job.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  5. #5
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    Thank you for the info! Do you happen to know if the 7-8 pin soldering is actually necessary for this application? I ordered the cable, but I still seem to be finding conflicting information in regards to this.
    Thanks!

  6. #6
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    Not necessary if you have a 20-pin port. Usually the 20-pin adapters have the 2 k-lines already bridged inside.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  7. #7
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    Thank you for the info! I should receive my cable early next week, and I will let you know how that goes!

    Thanks,
    romah

  8. #8
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    Is the engine control unit original to car or did you put a used one in?

    (A plain used one will not be able to be aligned in your dme version, ME7.2, it would need to be virginized first, or cloned from the original ecu first.)
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  9. #9
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    The DME is original to the car (matching vins). This will probably be the last step in my attempts to rectify this situation before I pull a dme/ews/key from another car and see if that will get this sucker running.

  10. #10
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    If you need help syncing your dme and ews off the car pm me. Send me the ews and dme and I can match them up on the bench
    Buy my native installed ISIS ISTA-D/ISTA-P bmw diagnostic laptop. More Info Here!

  11. #11
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    I received the adapter in the mail the other day, and did complete what seemed to be a successful realignment of the DME/EWS, or at least the pop-up on the inpa screen seemed to think so. IN any regard, I tried starting the car after this, and was greeted with a pop or two as if it was trying to start, and then nothing. The car cranked and cranked but nothing happened. Naturally I then checked the stored codes, and realized there was an error associated with the bank 2 cam position sensor, so I tossed in a spare (oem bmw unit), cleared the codes, and tried again. Still no start and the same error with bank 2 cps. At this point I was getting frustrated, so I took out a coil/plug and tested spark, and fuel line pressure. Spark was present as well as adequate line pressure. I then moved on to testing injector pulse. I didn't have a test light, so I removed the connector from the first injector on the second bank, and tested continuity. The connector was getting 12 v when grounded, however, when the two pins were tested in series, and the engine cranked, there was no nothing. Zero volts or spikes as one would expect to see when the dme does it's job of grounding out/firing the injector.
    All of this being said, I am starting to think that I might have a bad dme, or perhaps some sort of issue with my software. In any regard, I am now in search of any instructions as to how one might test for a bad DME and subsequently how to repair it, and how to verify that my EWS synchronization is correct.

    Any inputs would be much appreciated!
    Thanks,
    Romah

  12. #12
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    You would have codes for ews tampering protection in dme if it didn't sync.

    Everyone jumps on bad DME and that's almost always not the case. An issue with your software would certainly give you codes.

    If you have spark, that means EWS and DME are synced and happy and crankshaft position sensor is working.

    On the 6cyl cars, unknown camshaft position sensor function will still run the engine, I am not sure about the V8.
    Last edited by 328 Power 04; 10-30-2017 at 08:21 PM.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  13. #13
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    Can you give us some more history how you arrived at this situation with the car?
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  14. #14
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    The history on the car is shoddy at best as I purchased it locally in it's current non running state for next to nothing. The PO says that the car was running, then sputtered out one day and didn't start since. He said nobody worried on it, which definitely wasn't true, as some nimrod had clearly tried and failed at getting to the ecu (someone had stripped the metal inserts in the plastic housing, and clearly gave up on the project). When I first got it, I checked the basics, and went through trying to address any of the obvious problems: checked fuel pressure and came to realize that there was none, so I installed a new fuel pump, and voila the line pressure was great but still no start. Checked codes with a simple obd reader, and noted a clear issue with connectivity, scan tool was picking up absolutely nothing. So immediately I went to the notorious passenger footwell, and found that a couple of the terminals (one of which was responsible for DME power) were corroded. So I cleaned this all up, replaced the fuse, gave it a healthy dollop of dielectric grease to ensure a proper connection, and re-tested continuity. In the meantime I downloaded a version of inpa knowing that I would need to re-allign the EWS codes. So I went through the process of getting a windows xp machine, and installing all software and attempting my first EWS alignment at which point I came here for help because of the errors which you pointed out to by my use of the in car OBD port in place of the 20 pin diagnostic port. So I ordered the adapted, and went through the process again bringing me into my current state of head scratching. As mentioned before, I believe I successfully completed the EWS alignment today, and still nothing. So I went and re-checked spark, and injector pulse only to find that I had spark, and power to the injectors, but no pulse under cranking. It is my understanding that the EWS alignment would cause only the injector pulse to stop and not the spark plugs to stop firing, so perhaps this is still the issue? I too am of the understanding that issues usually never arise from the computer's hardware, but I am second guessing this mentality as I cannot seem to pinpoint the issue anywhere else.

    Any additional inputs are very much appreciated!
    Thanks,
    roman

  15. #15
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    I responded before, but I don't see my response in the thread. Is it visible?

  16. #16
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    Oh well, I suppose I'll just write it again. I don't have much history on the car as I purchased it in it's current non running state locally on the cheap. The PO said that it had run, sputtered out and not started since and just been left sitting, but I don't entirely believe that as there were some traces of someone who didn't know what they were doing. In any regard, When I brought it home I went through the basics and found that the fuel pump was dead (zero line pressure) so I tossed a new one in and managed to get plenty of line pressure, but still no start. I then checked for stored codes and found that my obd reader was making no attempt to communicate with the car, so I checked all of the fuse/relay locations and found that the passenger footwell fuse block had suffered the classic corrosion damage. I fixed this, and power to the DME was restored. With this done I knew that I would need inpa software to re-allign the dome/ews modules, so I took a brake from wrenching and gathered what I thought to be the necessary equipment/ install the software. At which point I tried to complete the EWS alignment only to be met with the error codes which brought me to my original post. With your guidance I purchased the adapter and re-tried the ews alignment via the 20 pin diagnostic connector successfully (or so I think), went to start the car and still nothing. Cranks, sputtered a bit when I sprayed in some ether, but still nothing. In a frenzy I then decided to check spark, injector power, and pulse. There seems to be power to the injectors, however, the DME does not seem to be gounding them. My understanding is that a faulty EWS alignment is one of the few things which would cause a car to have spark, but no injector pulse. What can I do to verify the alignment? My next step is going to be check compression, and the engines physical timing. Though I doubt this is the case, I cannot think of much else which would be causing these crank no start symptoms.

  17. #17
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    (When you have under 10 posts, all the posts have to be verified, so it takes a little.)


    OK, i figured it came this way to you. This level of electrical faults doesn't just happen on a running car overnight. Just wanted to check.
    Sound like you've been on a long road with this so far, and you are closer.
    (FYI: INPA doesn't have to be on Win XP, it can run fine on anything current. Moot point.)


    Before blaming the DME, I would check for continuity from DME injector grounds to the injectors. A fault in the harness can cause your symptoms.
    A wiring diagram can make it easier to find each junction point.

    Any codes in the DME right now?


    EWS blocks both fuel injectors and spark.

    If you still suspect the DME, I have a couple good spare ME7.2s, I can virginize one for you (ready for EWS sync) and ship it to you for cheap.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  18. #18
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    1987 BMW 535i, 635 csi
    Hi there, Sorry to have takes so long without responding, but I don't have much opportunity to wrench on the car during the week as I am busy with classes. In any regard, I looked through the wiring and tried my best to see if there is any issue with the circuitry between the DME to the injectors to no avail. I am going to try re-assembing everything, remove and check every ground I possibly can, give the DME a fresh alignment, and just start from the top. I have been reading and think that a dead key battery might have something to do with my issues? Perhaps a new key would be useful, and definitely not a bad idea to have anyway. I am still extremely doubtful of the DME being bad, so I am going to give this diagnostic thing one last shot before I let myself come to that conclusion. The other thing I am now suspecting is that the engine jumped time and the DME is cutting fuel due to misaligned crank/ cam position sensor signals?
    As always, any inputs would be much appreciated.
    Thanks,
    roman

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