2011 328i Cylinder 5 Misfire

[goldenholden]

Hi Everyone,

I've been having an issue with this for a while. Unfortunately, was laid off from my job so I am trying to figure out how to fix this issue myself. If it's something that I can't fix, I'll have to suck it up and find a mechanic. My Service Engine Soon light has been going on and off for months with a code reading there is a cylinder 5 misfire.
First, I changed out the spark plug only in cylinder 5 and I also got a new ignition coil for 5 and popped that in. Nothing changed at all, the jumping and stuttering while in idle continued.
Then, I changed out all of the spark plugs and the jumping and stuttering totally stopped and the service engine light went off. For 4 days, I only felt one little stutter while in idle, and the car was perfectly smooth again and felt like it had more power. Then....the crazy jumping and stuttering started again and has continued to get worse and more frequent. A mechanic suggested that if changing out all spark plugs did not work, that I should change out all of the ignition coils and see if that helps. Should I give this a try since I only replaced the 5th one?
There is a HORRIBLE (what I think is exhaust) smell (makes me nauseous) and sometimes smoke (coming out of tailpipe and sometimes a little out of the top of the hood). I've been putting it into park at every single stop light and revving the engine to 1000 RPMS and the misfiring totally stops. If I do not rev the engine, the misfiring happens every 2 seconds or so in idle. If I go above 1000 RPMs there is no misfiring. Should I try changing out all of the ignition coils including the 5th one that I already replaced? Should I also replace all of the spark plugs again? Or does what I described sound like an issue with the connection or something else since the repair didn't ultimately work?

It was weird that it seemed to work perfectly for 4 days (though I think I recall it still smelled a little like exhaust even though it totally stopped misfiring) I honestly am a newbie and this was my first repair ever. I was so happy when the misfiring stopped and because of money, have been driving it around like this for a solid 1.5 months and am worried that I am causing some kind of damage by revving the engine, and just driving it around like this.

ANY advice would be extremely helpful. Thank you!!

Holden

[dworthy]

What are the codes pulled from the DME? It is very important to post each one word for word.

While it might be something else other than a misfire, but the codes will give the most clues.

[bmwdirtracer]

Hi Holden, and welcome to the forum.

I'm guessing that you're using a cheap generic code reader, which reads only P-codes. Such a device is pretty useless on a BMW. While it may tell you that you have an emissions code for a cylinder 5 misfire, the code reader WON'T tell you the various BMW specific codes which might lead you straight to the problem.

I'd also worry about what you bought for a coil and spark plugs. If you bought stuff from O'Really or Autozoo, they almost certainly sold you crap Chinese parts. You need to buy all your parts at a good BMW specialist supplier. Look online at one or more of the following: FCP Euro ; Turner Motorsport ; RM European ; getbmwparts.com (online dealership). (I'd add ECS Turning, but they also sell Chinese crap, as well as good OEM parts, so you have to know what you're looking at. The other places don't sell crap)

You have to CLEAR the code with the code reader, to make the check engine light go away immediately. If you do not clear the code, it takes 40 starts for the code to clear by itself, assuming no recurrence.

Your smell is almost certainly an oil leak. Since you smell it SO badly, it's probably a leaking valve cover gasket, because that leaks onto the exhaust. However, there are MANY potential oil leak spots.

You might well have an intake system leak -- perhaps even one which is just affecting cylinder 5 (which is rare). However, a misfire which goes away above 1000 rpm makes this a suspect.

When you swapped the coil and plugs, did you find oil on the outside of the sparkplugs? Because a leaking valve cover gasket dumps oil into the sparkplug holes, which can short out the ignition coils......

I really think you need to take the car to a good BMW specialist shop, and have them diagnose your misfire, and also check the car for further problems. There are some fairly common failure items which can cost you an arm and a leg, if they fail completely, but are relatively cheap to fix, if they are caught before they self destruct.

[MarcoZandrini]

Holden, you’re in Los Angeles so there are a ton of shops that specialize in BMWs. Try www.bimrs.org to find a reputable shop. Also, check the website of the LA chapter of the bmw Car Club of America for recommendations.

[asphalt4463]

Sorry about the job; been there many times. After the job improves, I'd recommend a bmw scan tool (I have a foxwell). I don't use it a lot but when I do it pays for itself so I consider it money well spent. When my #6 coil pack failed, I went with all new OEM plugs and coil packs (probably got them from FCP but it might've been ECS). Not the most economical approach but I wasn't too far from a service interval anyway.

[Rlequerica]

Good Morning, and happy thanksgiving day.
I am a Florida newbie here and I have similar problem. This may help me too.
I have a 2009 328i E90. I use a BMW DST from icarsoft BMII. CR Plus.

After getting a DTC “Cylinder Misfiring #4”, I did move the coil 4 to other cylinder (2), and yes, the Misfire followed the coil.
Another member helped me on that.
1. So Replacing the coil should be enough?

Tomorrow is thanksgiving day....and no store will be open to buy the coil.
I don’t know how bad will be for the car if I travel 60 +60 miles to go to my reunion ???
2. Please advice me on that.

When I removed the initial misfiring cylinder’s coil (4); I noticed about 10 drops of oil in the bottom of the coil’s compartment (hole?), surrounding the Spark Plug ....but oil couldn’t come from upside because there is a sealing rubber lip on the top end of the coil.
3. Could the Spark Plug be leaking?

And yes I have an unidentified oil leak, probably from the valve cover gasket, because I get that burnt oil smell. ; but I don’t know (as I am newbie) if that gasket is above the level of the spark plug threaded hole... or ...
4. if there is another gasket below that could be leaking on the spark plugs.
I am not sure, but my oil cap may have been lose; I just thigten it.... will that dump on the spark plugs too?

I read that an old car shall not be changed from regular to Syntetic oil because it may cause leaks ( I guess the Syntetic molecule is smaller); but I bought it at 50K miles and started the Syntetic Pento High Performance 5W-30 BMW Spec Longlife01.
5. Would it be a good idea to use Mobil 1 for High Mileage Autos 10W-40 ? To stop the leak for a while?
Here in Florida we have from 70-95 Fahrenheit.

6. How do I check for leak at intake system leak?

Thank you, thank you, thank you !!

[bmwdirtracer]

Happy Thanksgiving, and welcome to the forum.

An '09 is not an old car, and changing from dinosaur oil to synthetic does not cause leaks anyway; and your car is very unlikely to have been fed dino oil anyway (That's punishable by permanent license revocation )

You won't stop any leak, much less leaking a leaking valvecover, by switching oil. You stop a valvecover leak by replacing the valvecover gasket set. Period.

The oil in the sparkplug hole is an ABSOLUTE sign that your valvecover gasket is leaking. The misfire is quite possibly a result of the leak.

Replace the valvecover gasket set, all 6 sparkplugs , and at least that one coil (preferably all 6). Use only OE or OEM parts bought from a quality BMW specialist supplier, like FCP Euro, RM European, or ECS Tuning.

You test for leaks using a professional smoke machine, which top quality Euro specialist shops have.

Um, if you're not pretty good at doing your own mechanical work, be aware that the valvecover gasket set pays a professional 4.9 hours, so it is not as easy as it might seem. And I believe the valvecover bolts are aluminum. If so, they must be replaced, and they must be torqued very carefully.

And the cam gear bolts must be carefully checked when the cover is off; they're aluminum, and there are several service bulletins about them. BMW will do that job for free, if they are loose, broken, etc.

[Rlequerica]

Thanks for your help Chriss.
Do you have copy or link to the bulletins about cam gear bolts ?

[bmwdirtracer]

There are several variations of the bulletin; some are called "recall", some are not.


ecall - Replace (Vanos) Camshaft Gear Bolts

SI B11 07 14
Engine

October 2014
Technical Service

This Service Information bulletin supersedes SI B11 07 14 dated September 2014.

PERFORM THE PROCEDURE OUTLINED IN THIS SERVICE INFORMATION ON ALL AFFECTED VEHICLES BEFORE CUSTOMER DELIVERY OR THE NEXT TIME THEY ARE IN THE SHOP FOR MAINTENANCE OR REPAIRS.

BMW centers must ensure Recalls are completed after having been notified by BMW of North America, LLC (BMWNA) that a safety-related defect or noncompliance exists in any motor vehicle or item of replacement equipment in the center's possession at the time of notification. In BMW NA's case, this notification would typically be made by the issuance of a Recall notification in the form of a Service Information bulletin (SIB) or transmission of a Dealer Communication System (DCS) Recall message.

Under the National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act of 1966, as amended, if a Recall Campaign is announced by BMW NA, centers must ensure that all Recalls on new vehicles and new items of replacement equipment are completed BEFORE delivery to the consumer. This means that centers may not legally deliver new motor vehicles or new items of replacement equipment to consumers with an open Recall.

The Safety Act also prohibits centers from selling or leasing the motor vehicle or item of replacement equipment, unless and until the open Recall has been completed BEFORE delivery. This also pertains to vehicles in the Certified Pre-Owned program, and to items of replacement equipment.

Finally, BMW centers should not sell or use parts that have been recalled by BMW NA. Please follow the specific instructions provided by BMW NA on the return or disposition of the parts.

[NEW] designates changes to this revision
SUBJECT
Recall Campaign 14V-176: N51, N52K and N52T Engine - Replace VANOS Gear Bolts

MODEL
E70 (X5)

E82 (1 Series Coupe)

E83 (X3)

E88 (1 Series Convertible)

E89 (Z4)

E90 (3 Series Sedan)

E91 (Sports Wagon)

E92 (3 Series Coupe)

E93 (3 Series Convertible)

F10 (5 Series Sedan)

F25 (X3)
[NEW] SITUATION
The VANOS adjustment units may develop an internal oil leakage that will no longer allow the VANOS to adjust quickly enough. Due to this leakage, the vehicle's engine emergency mode and engine malfunction are permanently active.

AFFECTED VEHICLES
This Recall involves certain E70, E71, E82, E88, E89, E90, E92, E93, F10 and F25 vehicles with the N51, N52K and N52T engines produced from September 2009 to November 2011.

Vehicles which require this Recall Campaign will show the following Campaign Code:

00 11 35 03 00

The Campaign Code is located in the "Open Campaign Information" section in the DCSnet Warranty Vehicle Inquiry and in the Key Reader.

First check if a Recall Campaign label with a code number 684 is already attached to the vehicle's B-pillar.

If a code number 684 has been punched out, the Campaign has already been performed and no further action is necessary.
CUSTOMER RECALL NOTIFICATION LETTER
BMW NA is sending VIN-specific customer Recall notification letters approximately September 25, 2014. A sample letter is attached.

[NEW] UNAFFECTED VEHICLES
Applicable vehicles which had both VANOS adjustment units (P/N 11 36 7 583 207 and P/N 11 36 7 583 208) or had a complete new or remanufactured engine assembly (with cylinder head) previously replaced on or after September 1, 2012, have installed parts that meet the requirements of this Recall Campaign. No further repair is necessary.

CORRECTION
On the affected vehicles:

1. Replace the VANOS assembly's gear bolts on the units that do not have any loose and/or broken bolts (one side or both as applicable).

2. [NEW] If the gear bolts on a VANOS assembly are found loose and/or broken, replace the entire VANOS assembly. If the heads of the bolts are broken, the missing pieces must be found and removed from the engine before the engine repairs are completed.

The VANOS assembly bolt removal and installation video can be viewed via the TIS Website:
1. Select "Service Reference" from the top menu bar.

2. Select "Service Videos"

3. Select "General Search"

4. Select "[11] Engine" and "Submit"

Select �V11 03 14 September 2014 - Recall 14V- 176: N51, N52K, N52T and N55 Engine - Replace VANOS Gear Bolts.

Do not automatically replace both VANOS assemblies if only one unit has a loose and/or broken bolt(s).

Refer to the attachment for special tool requirements, tool operation and repair procedures.

[NEW] It is necessary that the procedure described in the attachment be performed with the vehicle at room temperature. Performing the torque sequence described in this bulletin with a hot engine will result in an inaccurate torque value.