I picked up a 2010 328ix with 80K miles for my daughter. She has a year before she can drive, so I get the joy of driving it for the next year. I've been going through it replacing all the fluids, tonight I replaced the power steering fluid. With a ton of posts questioning what the interval should be for some of these "Lifetime" fluids I figured I post some pictures of 80K mile power steering fluid. So far it looks like this car has been very well maintained. Cosmetically it's perfect and the CBS shows oil and brake fluid done back in July. When I flushed the brake fluid it looked as good as the new stuff I was putting in. Oil color looked like 1K mile oil when I drained it. So you can assume these pictures are a good representatitive of power steering fluid for a typical daily driver.
The fluid was very dark and opaque. The picture of the jar is with a flashlight shining directly into the fluid from above. You can still see a hint of the original green color. I don't think the fluid was horrible but it was dirty. Not changing it probably wouldn't causing rack failure until much much later, if ever but for $23 for 1L of CHF 11S at my local Autozone and 1 hours labor its cheap preventive maintenance.
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My power steering fluid is pretty similar with 60k on it. I've been thinking about changing mine since I have a liter of Pentosin CHF 11S sitting on my shelf. Did you replace the fluid in the reservoir, or drain it all from the rack? Is ~900mL enough fluid?
Can't hurt to change it
The steering is 'heavy' on my kid's '08, after fresh fluid did you notice a difference in steering feel? Last car I did a steering flush on it reduced the effort substantially.
I did flush the system completely, but I did not drain the rack by loosening the banjo bolt. Here are the steps I used to replace the fluid:
1. Jack the front of the car up using the front middle jack point, both wheels need to be off the ground. Just off the ground is enough.
2. Remove all fluid from the reservoir.
4. Unbolt the reservoir.
5. Remove the return line. Place lots of rags under it to catch any remaining fluid in the reservoir that will run out.
6. Add an extension hose to the return line to reach a catch bucket on the floor.
7. Plug the return port on the reservoir.
8. Fill the reservoir with fluid.
9. With the engine off, have a helper turn the wheel left to lock and then right to lock. This well slowly pump the old fluid out and new fluid in from the reservoir.
10. Continue turning the wheel left and right to full lock until the fluid coming out is clean, keep the reservoir topped off.
11. Reconnect the return line to the return port on the reservoir. The trick is to do this quickly to avoid the fluid spilling out. The oem hose clamps are one time use so before connecting the return hose slip on a new hose clamp.
I like this method because air never gets in the rack, a lot of people do a similar method with the engine running but that makes me nervous. Lots of rags involved that can get caught on moving parts.
One can is enough to flush the system and have the reservoir full, but if you spill too much reconnecting the return hose you will be short.
I did not replace the reservoir originally, but after seeing the condition of the old fluid I figured for another $26 I'll replace the reservoir.
Last edited by velorider562; 10-24-2017 at 01:31 PM. Reason: Grammer
Thanks for the DIY, I really like that technique. I'll have to pick up a few Oetiker clamps before getting started, those are the greatest thing ever.
I did mine yesterday just the low energy way, suction out resivoir, refil, drive repeat. The steering does feel better, it's lighter and not as vague. Or it's in my head Either way it's a win Transmission filte and fluid change today, since I coupldn't find a DIY way to change ALL the fluid I'm gonna have to get creative and invent a way
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