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Thread: Stubborn bolt

  1. #1
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    Stubborn bolt

    There is a bolt that looks different than the other 2 holding the rear control arm to the frame (bracket) previous owner may have used a different one... but I can’t get this thing out, I’ll go to loosen it and it’ll just keep spinning and then tighten up again (even though I’m loosening it) before breaking loose again. Any advice on getting it out?
    Things I’ve tried:
    -Liquid Wrench
    -Pry Bar
    -Impact
    -Vice Grips
    -A lot of ratcheting

  2. #2
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    Stubborn bolt

    1 of the 3 bolts holding the control arm up to the frame (bracket) looks different than the others. The previous owner may have used a different one but I’m trying to replace my Rtab, and I cannot get this different bolt out. It will just keep spinning before tightening up again and then breaking loose, and keep spinning. Any advice? Things I’ve tried.
    Impact
    Liquid wrench
    A lot of ratcheting
    Pry bar
    Vice grips

  3. #3
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    Thread sounds like it has gone, hopefully on the bolt. You need to get something under the bolt head and lever it out while you turn the bolt with a ratchet or spanner. If you can't get anything under it yet, try turning the bolt and pulling outwards using mole grips

  4. #4
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    What if it’s the hole that lost threads? Would a tap and die set work?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barrett485 View Post
    What if it’s the hole that lost threads? Would a tap and die set work?
    That's what I would use. The only concern is passing a larger bolt through the hole in what you are trying to attach to the frame. And that if there is a captive nut inside the frame, the PO didn't get silly and break the weld

  6. #6
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    I'd check under the back seat area, because if the bolt looks different maybe a nut and bolt has been put through

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by whiskychaser View Post
    That's what I would use. The only concern is passing a larger bolt through the hole in what you are trying to attach to the frame. And that if there is a captive nut inside the frame, the PO didn't get silly and break the weld
    If the weld broke and insert spinning the OP would be posting a different problem as the arm would lower with other two bolts out
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  7. #7
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    Apply leverage under the head as you try to back it out?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36328Coupe View Post
    If the weld broke and insert spinning the OP would be posting a different problem as the arm would lower with other two bolts out
    Trying to visualise which bolt it is. If there is a nut inside the chassis rail and it is no longer captive, it is going nowhere.

  9. #9
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    Still cannot get it... idk what else to try, car badly out of alignment now. Just wanna get these bushings in and get a WA..

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by whiskychaser View Post
    Trying to visualise which bolt it is. If there is a nut inside the chassis rail and it is no longer captive, it is going nowhere.
    The RTAB Console doesn't have a nut fixed inside. It's like a top hat and fixed outside
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  11. #11
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    someone likely over-torqued that bolt, and it's semi stripped now. After you remove it inspect the threads and you can use helicoil and a drill to repair it. Do as others have said. Use a prying tool - pry bar, screwdriver, etc. while turning the bolt head.

  12. #12
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    When I did my RTABs I sprayed penetrant into that cavity, there is a small plastic plug in the wheel well you can remove. Might be big enough to get a borescope in there to see what you're dealing with. You may have to go to a shop and get it cut out and replaced. IDK if you can access that from the back seat or not.
    Last edited by jmo69; 10-21-2017 at 05:07 PM.

    Gave away my BMWs, driving a VW and an Audi now.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmo69 View Post
    When I did my RTABs I sprayed penetrant into that cavity, there is a small plastic plug in the wheel well you can remove. Might be big enough to get a borescope in there to see what you're dealing with. You may have to go to a shop and get it cut out and replaced. IDK if you can access that from the back seat or not.
    You can't, unless you cut a hole or someone has already. However, you would think checking under the seat in case some muppet has nut and bolted it as I suggested will have been done by now
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  14. #14
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    No nut under the seat, Checked already. How much would a shop charge to get it out?

  15. #15
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    They will probably tell you: can tell you later, when we got it out, per hour $..
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  16. #16
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    Might have to weld something onto it and then leverage it out. Then drill and retap or cut out and weld in a new rtab pocket.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
    Might have to weld something onto it and then leverage it out. Then drill and retap or cut out and weld in a new rtab pocket.
    Thinking too complicated.
    Put the other two bolts in. Grind the head off the bolt or cut the bracket, remove arm, grind off the two or three welds holding the threaded inserts in and weld another in. Look for an RTAB pocket strengthening thread you should be able to see the welds I mean
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  18. #18
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    I like that idea ^. But unless the OP can weld, the job is behind him and he needs a shop that will. Or someone with a welder and grinder who will come to him. There probably is someone not too far away but could be hard to find that person.

  19. #19
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    Do all your own prep then a mobile welder. No point paying welder prices per hour for cleaning off paint. Or hire welder
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  20. #20
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    Started digging into where the bolt was sitting, turns out it was nut and bolted with welded metal in front of it, and silicone covering the metal. Will this effect anything when I go to get an alignment?

  21. #21
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    So did the PO open it up, add a nut to the bolt and tighten it and then weld the hole shut? All three bolts need to be usable for a toe adjustment. You might get by with two but there are 3 there for a reason.

    Gave away my BMWs, driving a VW and an Audi now.

  22. #22
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    Try just unbolting the the other 2 and the 3rd as far as possible, then just start shaking and pulling like your having a seizure. Ive had to do this on a friends car to get it out, nothing was wrong with the Bolt, just stuck from grime, and although in your case it seems they used an incorrect Bolt in the 3rd spot, it still may help. Like go HAM shaking and Pulling.

    Quote Originally Posted by Barrett485 View Post
    turns out it was nut and bolted with welded metal in front of it, and silicone covering the metal.
    Welded metal in front of it? RTAB Reinforcement plate? Does it look like this?

    https://www.akgmotorsport.com/produc...nt-plates-e36/

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barrett485 View Post
    Started digging into where the bolt was sitting, turns out it was nut and bolted with welded metal in front of it, and silicone covering the metal.
    Called it from 4000 miles away.
    Quote Originally Posted by Barrett485 View Post
    Will this effect anything when I go to get an alignment?
    I would hope when this was done they either welded the nut to a plate and / or welded the nut in place, then closed up the box section. You don't weld up the hole you cut tp get to a nut and not weld the nut in while the welder is there.
    Then the bolt rusts and a couple of poor tack welds may not be enough and it tears free and spins.
    If the lip of the original threaded boss is missing and they didn't washer it out the RTAB console won't sit level for alignment.
    Last edited by E36328Coupe; 10-26-2017 at 02:48 PM.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmo69 View Post
    So did the PO open it up, add a nut to the bolt and tighten it and then weld the hole shut? All three bolts need to be usable for a toe adjustment. You might get by with two but there are 3 there for a reason.
    Seems like it, and it is the same bolt as the others. The nut is rusted badly.

    - - - Updated - - -

    - - - Updated - - -

    It was just a simple piece of metal not a reinforcement plate.
    Last edited by Barrett485; 10-26-2017 at 04:10 PM.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36328Coupe View Post
    Called it from 4000 miles away.
    I would hope when this was done they either welded the nut to a plate and / or welded the nut in place, then closed up the box section. You don't weld up the hole you cut tp get to a nut and not weld the nut in while the welder is there.
    Then the bolt rusts and a couple of poor tack welds may not be enough and it tears free and spins.
    If the lip of the original threaded boss is missing and they didn't washer it out the RTAB console won't sit level for alignment.
    So essentially my car will always be out of alignment? Anyway I could possible fix this?

    What should I tell the tech when I go for alignment tomorrow?
    Last edited by Barrett485; 10-26-2017 at 04:36 PM.

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