The fronts are easy to adjust, came with that plastic tool and instructions. They are on the car and work great at 1/2 turn from soft, as recommended on this site. I didn't get any instructions with the parts on rear adjustments. I searched and watched a couple of videos, and see there are a few styles. These are PN 8040 1217SPORT, for my 98 Z3M . They have flats on the stem. I've tried turning it. I've compressed it completely and turned the top, never finding the internal tabs that some have. I guess I'm not that bright, because I can't figure it out. I emailed Koni, but no telling when they'll respond, and I want to put them in now. thanks for help.
Thought you used the adjustment tool on the top of the strut (where it sits in the rear shock mount)?
There are three (3) possibilities:
double-adjustable shocks (at least those from TCK) have a stem up through the shaft (like your fronts) AND a 12-position click-stop screw adjustment near the bottom.
single adjustables *may have* the same click-stop adjustment (TCKs do) near the bottom, or...
if there's no visible adjustment, then YOU MUST disconnect the bottom of the shock, THEN REMOVE the rubber bump-stop (buried in the upper recess around the shaft) and finally, FULLY COMPRESS the shock and turn__you should *feel* it when it engages the slot allowing an adjustment to be made.
Randy is genius. (I know, many people already know this) Mine is the 3rd type he lists. Until he told me to take out the rubber bump stop (and that split plastic washer), I was not able to compress far enough to engage the slot. I didn't see the bump stop because it was lodged at the top of the shaft, inside the upper housing. Incidentally, mine has small holes on the top so I can poke the bump stop down to take it out. So now I've adjusted them. It was about 2 1/2 turns lock-to-lock, so I'm setting it at 1/2 turn from softest side. That is, I'm turning it all the way counter clockwise and then back 1/2 turn. Luckily, mine are not installed on the car. It seems much easier to do than it would be on the car. .......... thanks again.......... P.S. : shame on Koni, for not having instructions in the box. They have decent instructions for the front shocks.
Last edited by zellamay; 10-19-2017 at 04:43 PM.
Edit (Singles with an adjuster are at the top)
There are three (3) possibilities:
Double-adjustable shocks (at least those from TCK) have a stem up through the top shaft (like your fronts) AND a 12-position click-stop screw adjustment near the bottom.
Single adjustable (at least those from TCK) have a stem up through the top shaft (like your fronts), or...
if there's no visible adjustment, then YOU MUST disconnect the bottom of the shock, THEN REMOVE the rubber bump-stop (buried in the upper recess around the shaft) and finally, FULLY COMPRESS the shock and turn__you should *feel* it when it engages the slot allowing an adjustment to be made.
The (TCKline) Koni top external rebound adjustable shocks have a non-stock 12mm shaft that requires aftermarket Rear Shock Mounts.
The internally rebound adjustable Koni rear shock shafts are stock diameter at 10mm.
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Last edited by bluptgm3; 01-06-2021 at 01:12 PM.
I installed the Koni shocks, have a couple of comments: ((1)) Adjusting is definitely easier off the car. Since they are so easy to take out, I will remove-to-adjust if I ever want to adjust. I don't think I will. The initial setting seems right. ((2)) One should compress the shock after adjustment, with the bump-stop on it, to seat the bump-stop at the top of the shock. Otherwise, the bump-stop falls and could get in the way, maybe even get cut by the metal shock cover, when shock compresses on the car.
Actually, the 3rd style Randy describes are fairly easy to adjust by just removing the lower mounting bolt. Once you understand how they adjust, its pretty simple to compress and turn the body. The hardest part is poking through those top holes to get the snubber out of the way.
-Donny
Welcome back., Donny.
I know it's old thread, but I can confirm that the instructions to adjust the rear Koni shocks do come in the box. There's a little sheet of paper, and mine was stuck to the inside of the box. I could have easily thrown it out and never known it existed. I went searching for adjustment preferences and came across this thread. Maybe it helps someone else someday.
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Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
I was installing my rear shocks this weekend, and found this video from Koni that shows the different adjustment methods https://youtu.be/ksekDSo3Dbc
It took me a bit before I realized the bumper stop and white disc needed to be removed. I never felt any “clicks” but I could clearly feel the stops at clockwise and counterclockwise rotation. I set mine at one half turn. It was easy to do on the bench.
Koni has another vid on the cut-a-strut process, but that’s for next weekend ;-)
/Phil
‘74 tii
dueling ‘88 E28 535is projects (aka lawn art)
‘93 Euro M5
‘01 M roadster with a sunburn
I watched that video a couple times while my kit was in transit. Good stuff.
Yeah no clicks for sure, but the detent is easy to feel. I just inverted the shock and compressed on a piece of thick cardboard and set mine at a half turn as well. It sounds like we're in the same boat. I'm in no rush to install and still waiting on a couple tidbits to do the fronts, as well as some fresh bushings from Rogue to rebuild the rear mounts.
I'm thinking just a hacksaw on the front housings with a piece of tape marked at the 25mm dimension, but it's not like a slightly crooked cut won't achieve the same purpose after they're bolted in. We get to cover up our handiwork with a rubber boot regardless. I was thinking of painting the housings too, but I kinda dig seeing the factory markings so perhaps just some matte clear for me.
I'm also still debating H&R springs vs. staying with OE.
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Last edited by s8ilver; 01-07-2021 at 02:31 AM.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
You may consider having this (replacement) washer on hand for strut build-up
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Last edited by bluptgm3; 01-07-2021 at 04:25 PM.
I have complete intact OEM assemblies. I have the "support" and "dust protection collar" that installs above.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...39#31332227342
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Struts.JPG
Last edited by s8ilver; 01-07-2021 at 03:47 PM.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
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