Koni shocks: how do I adjust the rear shocks?

**zellamay** · 10-19-2017, 02:19 PM

The fronts are easy to adjust, came with that plastic tool and instructions. They are on the car and work great at 1/2 turn from soft, as recommended on this site. I didn't get any instructions with the parts on rear adjustments. I searched and watched a couple of videos, and see there are a few styles. These are PN 8040 1217SPORT, for my 98 Z3M . They have flats on the stem. I've tried turning it. I've compressed it completely and turned the top, never finding the internal tabs that some have. I guess I'm not that bright, because I can't figure it out. I emailed Koni, but no telling when they'll respond, and I want to put them in now. thanks for help.

**BimmerBreaker** · 10-19-2017, 02:34 PM

Thought you used the adjustment tool on the top of the strut (where it sits in the rear shock mount)?

**Randy Forbes** · 10-19-2017, 02:56 PM

There are three (3) possibilities:
double-adjustable shocks (at least those from TCK) have a stem up through the shaft (like your fronts) AND a 12-position click-stop screw adjustment near the bottom.

single adjustables *may have* the same click-stop adjustment (TCKs do) near the bottom, or...

if there's no visible adjustment, then YOU MUST disconnect the bottom of the shock, THEN REMOVE the rubber bump-stop (buried in the upper recess around the shaft) and finally, FULLY COMPRESS the shock and turn__you should *feel* it when it engages the slot allowing an adjustment to be made.

**zellamay** · 10-19-2017, 04:33 PM

Randy is genius. (I know, many people already know this) Mine is the 3rd type he lists. Until he told me to take out the rubber bump stop (and that split plastic washer), I was not able to compress far enough to engage the slot. I didn't see the bump stop because it was lodged at the top of the shaft, inside the upper housing. Incidentally, mine has small holes on the top so I can poke the bump stop down to take it out. So now I've adjusted them. It was about 2 1/2 turns lock-to-lock, so I'm setting it at 1/2 turn from softest side. That is, I'm turning it all the way counter clockwise and then back 1/2 turn. Luckily, mine are not installed on the car. It seems much easier to do than it would be on the car. .......... thanks again.......... P.S. : shame on Koni, for not having instructions in the box. They have decent instructions for the front shocks.

**SunzOut** · 10-19-2017, 06:17 PM

Edit (Singles with an adjuster are at the top)

There are three (3) possibilities:

Double-adjustable shocks (at least those from TCK) have a stem up through the top shaft (like your fronts) AND a 12-position click-stop screw adjustment near the bottom.

Single adjustable (at least those from TCK) have a stem up through the top shaft (like your fronts), or...

if there's no visible adjustment, then YOU MUST disconnect the bottom of the shock, THEN REMOVE the rubber bump-stop (buried in the upper recess around the shaft) and finally, FULLY COMPRESS the shock and turn__you should *feel* it when it engages the slot allowing an adjustment to be made.

**bluptgm3** · 10-19-2017, 11:15 PM

The (TCKline) Koni top external rebound adjustable shocks have a non-stock 12mm shaft that requires aftermarket Rear Shock Mounts.
The internally rebound adjustable Koni rear shock shafts are stock diameter at 10mm.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

**Randy Forbes** · 10-20-2017, 11:13 AM

Originally Posted by SunzOut

Edit (Singles with an adjuster are at the top)

There are three (3) possibilities:

Double-adjustable shocks (at least those from TCK) have a stem up through the top shaft (like your fronts) AND a 12-position click-stop screw adjustment near the bottom.

Single adjustable (at least those from TCK) have a stem up through the top shaft (like your fronts), or...

if there's no visible adjustment, then YOU MUST disconnect the bottom of the shock, THEN REMOVE the rubber bump-stop (buried in the upper recess around the shaft) and finally, FULLY COMPRESS the shock and turn__you should *feel* it when it engages the slot allowing an adjustment to be made.

True, but I really think I've seen them with only a external adjuster at the bottom too__I don't think I just imagined it__but I've been wrong before

Maybe they were a short-lived offering, in an effort to keep the 10mm stem?

**bluptgm3** · 10-20-2017, 01:34 PM

Originally Posted by Randy Forbes

True, but I really think I've seen them with only a external adjuster at the bottom too__I don't think I just imagined it__but I've been wrong before

Maybe they were a short-lived offering, in an effort to keep the 10mm stem?

Aren’t the double adjustable shock adjusters at the bottom of shock body?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

**zellamay** · 10-23-2017, 01:44 PM

I installed the Koni shocks, have a couple of comments: ((1)) Adjusting is definitely easier off the car. Since they are so easy to take out, I will remove-to-adjust if I ever want to adjust. I don't think I will. The initial setting seems right. ((2)) One should compress the shock after adjustment, with the bump-stop on it, to seat the bump-stop at the top of the shock. Otherwise, the bump-stop falls and could get in the way, maybe even get cut by the metal shock cover, when shock compresses on the car.

**sjdennis** · 10-25-2017, 08:23 PM

Originally Posted by zellamay

I installed the Koni shocks, have a couple of comments: ((1)) Adjusting is definitely easier off the car. Since they are so easy to take out, I will remove-to-adjust if I ever want to adjust. I don't think I will. The initial setting seems right. ((2)) One should compress the shock after adjustment, with the bump-stop on it, to seat the bump-stop at the top of the shock. Otherwise, the bump-stop falls and could get in the way, maybe even get cut by the metal shock cover, when shock compresses on the car.

one advantage of the shock mount reinforcing kit is that the bolts point down into the wheel well so you can remove the rear shocks without taking out the felt and doing yoga behind the roll hoops with the top up.

**KeysCoupe** · 10-27-2017, 01:35 AM

Actually, the 3rd style Randy describes are fairly easy to adjust by just removing the lower mounting bolt. Once you understand how they adjust, its pretty simple to compress and turn the body. The hardest part is poking through those top holes to get the snubber out of the way.
-Donny

**rf900rkw** · 10-27-2017, 07:39 AM

Welcome back., Donny.

**s8ilver** · 01-06-2021, 12:47 PM

Originally Posted by zellamay

Randy is genius. (I know, many people already know this) Mine is the 3rd type he lists. Until he told me to take out the rubber bump stop (and that split plastic washer), I was not able to compress far enough to engage the slot. I didn't see the bump stop because it was lodged at the top of the shaft, inside the upper housing. Incidentally, mine has small holes on the top so I can poke the bump stop down to take it out. So now I've adjusted them. It was about 2 1/2 turns lock-to-lock, so I'm setting it at 1/2 turn from softest side. That is, I'm turning it all the way counter clockwise and then back 1/2 turn. Luckily, mine are not installed on the car. It seems much easier to do than it would be on the car. .......... thanks again.......... P.S. : shame on Koni, for not having instructions in the box. They have decent instructions for the front shocks.

I know it's old thread, but I can confirm that the instructions to adjust the rear Koni shocks do come in the box. There's a little sheet of paper, and mine was stuck to the inside of the box. I could have easily thrown it out and never known it existed. I went searching for adjustment preferences and came across this thread. Maybe it helps someone else someday.

20210106_104050.jpg 20210106_104057.jpg 20210106_104106.jpg

**Solarphil** · 01-06-2021, 09:56 PM

I was installing my rear shocks this weekend, and found this video from Koni that shows the different adjustment methods https://youtu.be/ksekDSo3Dbc

It took me a bit before I realized the bumper stop and white disc needed to be removed. I never felt any “clicks” but I could clearly feel the stops at clockwise and counterclockwise rotation. I set mine at one half turn. It was easy to do on the bench.

Koni has another vid on the cut-a-strut process, but that’s for next weekend ;-)

**s8ilver** · 01-07-2021, 02:30 AM

I watched that video a couple times while my kit was in transit. Good stuff.

Yeah no clicks for sure, but the detent is easy to feel. I just inverted the shock and compressed on a piece of thick cardboard and set mine at a half turn as well. It sounds like we're in the same boat. I'm in no rush to install and still waiting on a couple tidbits to do the fronts, as well as some fresh bushings from Rogue to rebuild the rear mounts.

I'm thinking just a hacksaw on the front housings with a piece of tape marked at the 25mm dimension, but it's not like a slightly crooked cut won't achieve the same purpose after they're bolted in. We get to cover up our handiwork with a rubber boot regardless. I was thinking of painting the housings too, but I kinda dig seeing the factory markings so perhaps just some matte clear for me.

I'm also still debating H&R springs vs. staying with OE.

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

**bluptgm3** · 01-07-2021, 03:38 AM

You may consider having this (replacement) washer on hand for strut build-up

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

**s8ilver** · 01-07-2021, 12:46 PM

I have complete intact OEM assemblies. I have the "support" and "dust protection collar" that installs above.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...39#31332227342

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
Struts.JPG