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Thread: 2004 BMW Z4 Intermittent No Start (No Crank, No Click)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    2004 BMW Z4

    2004 BMW Z4 Intermittent No Start (No Crank, No Click)

    2004 BMW Z4 with 105k miles

    Intermittent no crank, no click, lights bright (no dimming), no start issue.
    Sometimes it works after a few tries, sometimes it doesn't work for a whole day.

    Recent events before the issues:
    - Replaced factory amplifier with OEM amplifier.
    - Attempted to replace factory head unit with aftermarket head unit, used harness adapter, no wire cutting, just plugging. Disconnected battery negative terminal during the attempt. I was missing the antenna adapter so ended up putting the factory radio back before reconnecting battery.
    - Passenger side mirror assembly is broken, controls work, the head is held together with duct tape.

    A week after the amplifier work and a couple days after touching the radio:
    Day1:
    I idle the car at a park for about half an hour one night. I stop the engine and after a while I turn the key, first occurrence of no start. I retry immediately and it works. Works a few more times during the same night. I move on with a shrug.

    Day2:
    No start in the morning. Try again a few times and it doesn't work. I check the voltage with multi-meter, reads 12.5 to 12.6. I call AAA, while I am on the phone (about 5 minutes after the first attempt) I try it and it works. 8 hours later starts fine and I drive home. Starts a few more times with no problems. I drive to a nearby grocery store and after 20 minutes it doesn't work for a few tries. I wait about a couple minutes and retry, it works. Keeps working during the same night multiple times in variable intervals.

    Day3:
    No start in the morning. Try again many times during the day and it doesn't work.

    Day4:
    No start all day. I order a new aftermarket starter on Amazon. Bosch SR0448N New Starter

    Day5:
    No start in the morning. AAA tows it to mechanic. I want to replace the starter no matter what so the mechanic (I'm not sure if he ran any diagnostics first) replaces the starter and tells me that "it was the starter, it works now". It works many times on site, I drive off. I get the windows and seals aligned at a nearby shop for a leak issue. I drive home. Since I had acquired the correct antenna adapter, I get on replacing the radio. Disconnect negative battery terminal, remove factory radio, plug in the aftermarket radio (using two way harness and antenna adapters). Before putting it in the housing, connect battery and try the radio, doesn't work (key in position 2, all lights work.) I turn the key again to start the car, doesn't start on first attempt. I try again immediately and the car starts. The radio still doesn't work. I stop the engine, disconnect battery negative again, disconnect the aftermarket radio and put the factory radio back. Connect battery, key in pos 2, radio and lights work. I turn the key but car doesn't start. try a few more times, no start. Try again later at night, no start.

    Day6:
    No try in the morning (I should have). Called AAA for towing, a couple hours later guy tries on parking gear no start. Tries in neutral no start. Tries again in neutral it starts. I drive to a different and more reputable mechanic for diagnosis. No repro the whole day. Car stays there overnight.

    Day7:
    Mechanic can't repro the issue all day. The mechanic mentions codes from EWS and oil sensor. They are one of the most reputable shops in the area (they only do bmw's) and they don't even have a gut feeling without a repro.

    I have only one key.

    Other things that may or may not be relevant:
    - Key used to close windows from outside the car when I plug it in (not remote), it does not anymore. I did the key reset with "press such and such buttons 3 times" procedure.
    - I noticed once or twice that my windows were dropped a couple inches when the no start issues were happening.
    - For a couple months (or a few) I see yellow oil warning come up in the dashboard, then go away after a while. I did oil change very recently.

    I did a lot of reading and I udnerstand it could be many things, but I'm hoping that the way my issue has progressed and the details can give someone a gut feeling.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    2,869
    My Cars
    2004 Z4R 06&12 Cooper S
    Check your clutch stop.
    If it is setup too close to the point where the neutral safety switch is depressed then ambient heat could cause a start/no start condition. Hope I explained that to be understandable.
    It happened to me.
    04R 3l 6 sp VF SC, custom ducting, alphaN, 2.62 pulley, multiport WMI,Severn Tuning(Pokeybritches), Tial BPV,Ceramic header, magnaflow section 1, SS race muffler/y-pipe, megan mounts,42 design catch can, CDV delete ,custom strut bar,3.91 LSD, H&R bars, Hotchkis links.Eibach Pro Kit,Koni Yellows.Megan camber arms. Carbon interior,SSK,UUC lines.CF aero. Poly bushings.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Chicagoland area
    Posts
    4,372
    My Cars
    EXOTICS
    Yep, checking clutch stop settings,
    Testing of starter solenoid using the hammer tap method on solenoid body, while simultaneously turning ignition switch.
    Testing for voltage at solenoid yellow/black wire for 12v during ignition attempt,
    to indicate defective ignition switch.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Victoria BC Canada
    Posts
    380
    My Cars
    2004 Z4, 1700 Nomad MC
    You may need a new ignition switch.... You can google this issue..... The part is apparently inexpensive and easy to replace.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    6,981
    My Cars
    2001 525it
    I would get a key, or you could read key recognition with Ista or auto logic. But you need to have more than on key any way. If the chip is failing you will get dash lights that's it no sound

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