so i just got my e21 home and im trying to figure out the problem, heres the issue
it will start and will run however its very hard to start
once running it will not idle must have pedal pushed and feathered
also lots of gas smell like its being flooded, some oil smoke as well.
anyone help please at what to look at
i know the old owner syas he did the entire ignition replaced
also he replaced all the fuel items and rebuilt the fuel distributor
only thing he said he hasnt done was the o rings for the injectors themselves.
I'm sure someone with more knowledge will chime in, but mine had a similar issue when i got it, mostly just on cold start and once it warmed up it was fine.
i did a tune up, just like you said you did to yours. plugs wires, cap and rotor, and it actually got worse, having to feather the throttle to keep it going.
the issue on mine was- it needed the timing set, valve adjustment and air/fuel adjustment. runs fine and no more smoking either. so maybe start there. good luck.
Ryan | 1983 BMW 320is | H&R's, Bilsteins's, Eurometric
My Build: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...83-320is-build
Because you just got the car, even though 'supposedly' many things have already been gone-through, I would still double check a few things.
Get to know the fuel tank(s) condition; drain the fuel filter inlet to a clean container. If it's fairly clean after settling for an hour, that's good. If not clean, consider tank treatment, or replace the fuel filter more frequently.
If the 3 pieces of fuel hose on the suction side of the external fuel pump are the original cloth-braided hoses (all 3 connect to the metal "Y" fitting); they are sucking air bubbles, seeping fuel and need to be replaced. * some fuel pumps have a mesh filter stuffed into the suction side, so check this too.
The k-jet fuel system hates vacuum leaks. The injector seals are difficult to replace on your 2.0 (compared to the 1.8), and must be replaced if vacuum leak. The 2.0 has a rubber coupling on the bottom of the engine oil dipstick tube, replace if it looks old. Check the bottom side of the intake bellow (suction hood) for tears, replace if any tears. Look for any other vacuum leaks too.
The fuel distributor originally has small mesh filters stuffed into the ports, under the injector-line banjo bolts. These can be removed for cleaning.
Be aware that after any vac leaks fixed, or or fuel system servicing, the fuel mix (3mm allen tool) may need adjustment. Do not flood the engine with fuel and be safe with the fuel.
Check the point gap and clean/tighten the fuel pump fuse and holders too. Fyi: there's also a resistor (ballast) wire for the "+" side of the ignition coil that's probably in need of replacement too.
Is the smog equipment still installed? (I ask because I can point out more possible vac leak areas).
That's just some of the basics for now. Let us know how it goes.
Tbd
valves adjusted,
vacuum lines all checked,
times as best i could
still runs but misfires like crazy. . . .and wont idle
defintaley seems like a fuel issue
possibility the past owner rebuilt the distributor wrong and put it together wrong somehow
ON A SIDE NOTE THE MISSFIRE DISAPPEARS ABOVE 4000 RPM, NOT SURE IF THAT HELPS
Last edited by letsgo7815; 10-19-2017 at 05:53 PM. Reason: NEW INFO
Maybe it's just a bad points capacitor. It's highly suggested that you check the other stuff I mentioned too.
Sometimes a bad points capacitor will cause blue/black color dots on the point contacts.
Last edited by epmedia; 10-19-2017 at 06:13 PM.
Tbd
ok ordered the points and condensor, should be here wednesday
side note, NO spark now so seeing as the car has been sitting since approx 82, i think the points/condensor are due...lol
Sounds like ignition problems. Just upgrade to Pertronix and be done with the points!
so weird things, it now runs but only if the fuel fuse is disconnected and obviously only for about 30-45 seconds.
when the fuse is in it wont even fire
almost like its getting too much fuel .....
pleasse help. . . .
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Be SAFE with Fuel.
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If everything other than fuel, is 'somewhat' proper...
Yes, seems too much fuel if the pump is indeed *not running. Signs that it's getting too much fuel is 1) if you can hear the injector(s) momentarily squeak/squeal when trying to start the engine or when turning the key on-off, 2) gasoline smell in the tailpipe (first remove key from ignition!), 3) engine oil diluted with fuel. You can also check the spark plugs for wet fuel, but sniffing the tailpipe is typically a good enough test.
While t-shooting, I suggest disconnect the wires on the cold-start-injector. (in case of improper electrical)
There should be *zero fuel-flow to the injectors while the air-meter/fuel-distributor is at rest (engine off), even when the fuel system is pressurized.
Causes of too much fuel:
A) 3mm fuel mix screw is adjusted overly rich (CW direction).
B) If the engine has not run properly for a few/several years - the fuel dist's piston/plunger may be stuck in it's bore. If it's stuck, do *not force-lift the meter-plate in the air-meter (under the intake bellow), otherwise the piston/plunger will get stuck worse.
C) Internal leak of cold-start-injector (not common). or Frankenstein'd electrical causing csi to stay open.
D) Problem inside air-meter, ie: binding components.
E) Problem inside fuel distributor, ie: torn/leaky o-ring(s). Disassembling the fuel dist is a *last resort repair.
That's some stuff to check. Please ask questions if needed- especially before even thinking about opening the fuel dist! (warning)
Please watch this completely:
(your tank vent system has a charcoal canister)
Tbd
ok , i will check some of that tomorrow.
the previous owner stated it was running amazing and then just went fixzxzle all of a sudden and hasnt been right since.
an engine swap is looking more and more promising as time goes on
How long ago did it "just went fixzxzle"?
Tbd
1 - 2 years ago,....
that was quite the typo huh , fixzxzle, lol, new word of the day
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