I have a low mileage 2001 Z3. I brought it to Florida for the last two years. I had it in Michigan for the summer, but it is back in Florida now. I can do some work, but I don't have all my normal tools.
I normally do the oil changes myself, but on the road, I paid a local guy to do it last March when I replaced the tires. When I had it in my driveway in Michigan, I could see there was a leak. The guy overfilled the oil, and had the filter pretty loose. I tightened it up and thought it was gone. But I still see a slight drip. The left side underneath is covered in oil. I'll post a picture next. I took out some oil, but made a mess, so I re-did the oi change and filter. The Mann filter comes with a gasket. I suspect that is where it leaks, but I don't see where that goes. Any idea?
On the ABS, I got the first fault last December. Then one on the ride home in May. But over the summer it was OK. I replaced the pads all around. I figured I was good, but on the ride down, it had a fault again, progressively sooner. Now pretty much after a few miles.
My cheap code reader doesn't show anything. I was going to take a guess its the left front sensor, since it gives a little tug to the left when it happens before the light comes on. I was going to take a shot at that one when I thought the aftermarket part was $30. Btu this is a newer model, and it is left/right specific, and is over $100. So I'd like to get the right one. Is there an easy way to tell?
Chris
You need to read the DSC/ABS codes. No guessing.
Here's one way to do it http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...xperimentation
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
Thanks. I think I can handle the cable setup to read the codes.
On the oil, this is the gasket. Does that go on the plastic under the filter?
That is a likely suspect for gasket, but honestly you should put original BMW and not a questionable aftermarket one https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/11421719855/
On the diagnostics, you need the OBD cable and the 20-pin adapter (all linked with examples) in order to reach ABS/DSC
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
You can get an INPA K+DCAN cable https://www.ebay.com/itm/291263858079 (if you don't already have one) to use that INPA pack with your E90 as well. Just COM port numbers have to match with the INPA program settings. (Cables in my Z3 thread are good for BMWs up to ~01/2007, and newer BMWs need the K+DCAN cable linked in this post here)
That gasket goes between the oil filter housing and the engine block. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_6223
Last edited by 328 Power 04; 10-18-2017 at 02:37 PM.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
Gasket made in Vietnam? Haven't seen that before, that's quite interesting.
Are you sure the guy didn't crack the filter cap?
The picture you posted is the oil filter housing gasket, PN 11 42 1 719 855. That seals the housing base to the engine, and is not touched in changing the oil filter.
You are asking about the O-ring gaskets for the filter element, which gaskets come with most filter kits.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...3#post28971233
Here is a video, with filter changing at 15:00:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZ_WBlv_TaE
BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405
The filter housing gasket ships with a Mann filter. Plus the o ring. I was thinking that if they included it, that was a place to look for the leak.
I messed with the car last night. It seems to be the regular o-ring that doesn't seal very cleanly. I messed with it a bit, but only made it worse. It was sort of stretched out. So I bought a new filter and used that o ring. It still seemed touchy. I've done at least 10-15 or so oil changes on these cars, and now this one is weird. I like how the video has a torque spec. I think I might have been over tightening. I think I'm good now.
The ABS is going to drive me batty until I get the cables. I forgot to shot it off today and the ABS engaged on the freeway. Messy. Up until now it just tugged and shut off. This time it vibrated all the way until I stopped.
No, the filter does not come with an oil filter housing gasket. It comes with a filter cap o-ring, and drain plug copper washer, and sometimes the little o-rings for the filter drain. The oil filter cap tightens until it bottoms. No more. This is a hand operation; if you used a tool you got it WAY too tight. The o-ring seals radially, not by compression or torque. If it leaks, something was not cleaned or installed correctly.
Your leak is almost certainly the filter housing gasket. Very common. Mucking with the filter cap is not going to fix it.
/.randy
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
The Mann filter I bought did come with the oil filter housing gasket. For sure.
The leak last night was from the o ring. I could see it. Maybe it was over-tightened, but it also leaked when the shop did it, and that was loose by hand.
I might need the housing gasket too. I'll know once all the oil drips off.
If the shop over-tightened, they may have backed it off and retightened to a more innocent amount.
I buy Mahle filters, and they come with the big oil filter cap O-ring, the copper drain plug gasket, the filter cap bolt washer, and the filter cap bolt tip O-ring. I'm guessing that if your Mann came with an oil filter housing gasket, that was a mistake. Was the gasket in the Mann filter box, or in the shipping box with it? I wouldn't wait for the oil to drip off, that could take a long time and be very messy. Put several big sheets of cardboard under the car and spray it off carefully with brake parts cleaner--the good CRC Red can stuff--a couple of cans will do it (wear rubber gloves and eye protection).
Thanks everyone.
Good idea on a good cleanup once i get it resolved.
So this is the filter I bought. He prob just tossed in a gasket.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BMW-E39...item35e953c521
This is getting serious. I checked it this morning and there was a pretty big leak. This was after messing with it last night.
If I hand tighten it, the oil pushes the o ring out and oil gushes out the side. So I sort of pushed the o ring back by hand and tightened it up with a wrench until it doesn't visibilty leak. I started it a few times and think it is driveable, sort of where I started.
So I think there is a huge pressure outward from the oil. I'm wondering if the oil flow is from the outside, through the filter? Then I'd have something impeding it, so it pushed the o ring.
I don't have my other car to check, but I think the pieces on the end of the plastic that are not intended to be replaced seemed loose. Maybe the tech took it all apart, then did something wrong putting it back?
I'm thinking I'll go do my morning stuff, then take the filter out and take some pictures, unless someone has another idea. I don't think I;ll need to drive tonight or tomorrow.
So I knocked down the oil leak issue. The guy put the copper ring that goes on the drain plug on the end of the plastic oil filter holder. So the assembly would not go in far enough to get the o-ring to engage. Wow. Going back, hand tightening the filter get it really tight. I could not even move it with a light tough of the wrench. This one really had be going!
Thanks for the tip on the brake cleaner. That worked great.
I'll do the ABS next trip.
IMG_6830.jpg
Now make sure you have a copper crush washer on the oil drain bolt. You may be ok with them reusing the old one, but it may leak.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
So much for taking it to a shop. At this point, it's do it yourself or don't drive for me. That is just outrageous--they could have killed your car. Good catch and great perseverance--it's the only way.
I've been doing more and more myself lately. This one was a huge setback for going to shop. I don't like to wait around either. I had it there for the tires though.
I had a couple days of driving and enjoying. Funny the badge fell off just about the moment I had the oil squared away!
IMG_9608.jpg
So I'm back in Florida and have the Diag tools.
As a short re-cap - the hood emblem is done. A very slight bit off center, but fine by me.
There is a maddening very slight oil leak that seems ot persist. I'm not sure if all the tweaking messed up something or not. 'l give the cap a big crank and see.
On the ABS codes, it says 5E3C. Does that tell me which sensor is bad? I did a google and it didn't jump out.
I wasn't sure which diag to run. I went through the list until one worked. Second from the bottom I think. There was a list under e36, then chasis.
Not the idea workstation, but it worked.
Any ideas on what this code means?
screen1.pngscreen2.pngIMG_9782.jpgIMG_9783.jpg
It says Yaw rate sensor electrical failure and Yaw rate sensor not plausible right there in the pictures. No need to search.
You need to replace your yaw sensor. Its under the carpet right below the front of the driver's seat.
Last edited by 328 Power 04; 11-13-2017 at 12:29 PM.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
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