E36 M3 or 128i?

[thomasr3818]

Hey guys! I’m a 16 year old kid in The US (so no euro spec M3, ughhh) and I’m looking for a new daily driver. I have about $8000 to spend and I’m looking for a used sports car, requiring minimal work to get it in good shape. I’ve been very interested in the E36 M3s and 128i. I know these are very different cars, but does anyone have an opinion? Any other options that could be viable? Im not limited to BMWs but they seem to be the best bang for my buck. Thanks so much!

[Mklock]

Minimal work, these select words weed out the e36 chassis in general. Do your self a favor and get the 1 series.

[MisterM52]

Hey Kiddo, Listen here, If you take my advice, I will keep it simple, You are 16, Dont blow your 8 grand on a car, it wont get you what you want, forget about racing and all that, you just started, so start off with a decent US Spec M3 or a Decent 328i, Shift up to a E46 if you want to. Heck even a E34 would be nice place to start. I am sure you will be able to save 60-70% of your dough that way. Something that wont take too much of your time, just enough on the weekends IF Need be. Invest your money where you can get better returns, saving it works too, then put your efford on your studies and things you like, and put more effort on your body itself, and ofcourse women, learn how to deal with them, how to roll them in, dont fall for their words, just work them out the next ten years while you focus on your finances and your body. Thats my two cents assuming you are buying it with your own money if not then grab what you like 1 series I say. But yea, just ask yourself, do you need the 1 series, will it get you things you want, appear cooler? get you the chicks? or put a hole in your pocket, can things you want to do be done in a older classic car that costs a lot less, sporty, just enough grunt? Get the E34, the girls will thank you for it. So yea there you go kiddo, good luck.

[pbonsalb]

128i is probably the smarter buy unless you can DIY.

[newman995]

The 128i will definitely require less maintenance, but if you are mechanically inclined and can do the work yourself, I think the e36 m3 will be more satisfying. The e36 chassis will require work. I don’t care if you find one absolutely perfect with no miles on it. It will require money and parts at some point. Guaranteed. If you can’t work on the car yourself or you don’t want to do it yourself, expect to spend more than you imagine on labor. Do your research! There is an unlimited supply of knowledge on the forums. My best piece of advice is this: Do not buy the first car you go to look at UNLESS it is exactly what you want. Do not buy something just because it looks nice and you want it. Trust me on this. You will end up with a shit bucket car that is parked requiring work more than it is driving down the road.

Dont let let me scare you away from the e36 chassis. They are amazing machines and they are very rewarding to drive. Take your time and find the car that is the most mechanically sound and you’ll be just fine.

[XnWarden]

$8000 could buy a very well sorted out E36 and have budget left over for stuff like tires. Id go with the cheaper platform instead of stretching out your budget on the more expensive 128i and have $0 left for repairs when it too inevitably breaks.

[Eric93se]

They're not exactly money-pits but they will all require some work.

Here are two in your area, within you budget and they will need work:
https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/...333094669.html

- - - Updated - - -

https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/...347892116.html

[MParallel]

The E36 is easier to work on than those modern pics with all that valvetronic stuff etc.

However even a US M3, a decent one, will need more than $8000.

Get a nice E36 328i instead.

[MisterM52]

Hes 16, whens he gonna learn wrenching and car skills? Well the E36 is a brilliant car to learn on and cheap to get parts long as he doesn't get a pos that needs too much work too often, all cars will need some work if you intend to keep them for good number of years. I bought mine for top dollar and it still needed work down the line. a better choice as I said than a E36 is the E34 with the M50 motor so a 525i would be nice, need less work imho those things were built like tanks and as I always say, the women will thank you for it, you will thank me for it. Get the E34!

[newman995]

The E36 is easier to work on than those modern pics with all that valvetronic stuff etc.

However even a US M3, a decent one, will need more than $8000.

Get a nice E36 328i instead.

Thats not entirely true. I paid $5000 for one a week ago. In good condition. $8000 can buy a quality US M3

[Type1Kicks]

E36 m3

[mslevin]

Insurance for an M3 will most likely be a lot higher than for a 128.

Unless your parents are paying for the insurance, in which case go for whichever you think is cooler.

[blckstrm]

Insurance for an M3 will most likely be a lot higher than for a 128.

Unless your parents are paying for the insurance, in which case go for whichever you think is cooler.

I don't think this is true how you stated it, but insurance could be an important decider.

For an annual or monthly insurance cost, the E36 (even an M3) will likely be substantially lower than a newer 128 simply because it's older.

Older and worth less according to KBB, Edmunds, NADA, etc.

Where this IS true is if you have an accident.

My guess is that 128s sell for more or less what KBB and Company think they should sell for. Which means you'll get roughly what it's actually worth in an accident.

If you pay anything over the nominal book value for an E36 M3 (roughly $3-$4k) you can just kiss that money goodbye. Any money you put into mods - similarly gone. Money you put into "refreshing" the car? Gone.

Good condition M3s are worth the same amount as trashed M3s in your insurance company's eyes. They place no value whatsoever on upkeep or especially on modifications - even with documentation.

And if you think that's not fair, you should see what E30 M3s book for compared to what they actually sell for.

For this reason it is somewhat risky to drive an old M3. It doesn't stop most of us, but you can find the stories of what happens to people and their cars when accidents happen.

---

Aside from that issue, I'd think about what makes you want an E36 M3.

It's akin to owning an airplane; regular pre-flight checks, addressing potential issues before they become current issues. It's a nearly endless tinkering process. Even once you have it "sorted" it's still never finished. Things break, wear out, or just need attention forever. When it doesn't need fixing, most of us tend to fix it anyway (upgrades or other modifications).

Hard to believe, but some of us LIKE that it needs attention. It's like Legos for adults. It's a beautiful thing to make it into something you've more or less (re)built from the ground up.

And once it's where you want it you won't want to trade it for anything (at least until the next big, expensive thing breaks).

If that sounds like a good time - and you can afford it - this is your huckleberry. If it sounds like a nightmare, you'll want to go for the 128.

Here's what I've spent on my car since I bought it (more or less). It's about $120 / month averaged out over 8 years, not including the original purchase price. I've tried to ballpark what I'd have spent on each thing if I'd paid someone else to do it (very close to double in most cases), so you can get a feel for what you'll be looking at in either case (you do your own work or you pay a shop).

Also note this isn't regular maintenance - does not include oil / filter changes, tires, brake pads.

This is just non-wear parts and the shipping to get it, also occasionally including a premium for urgent shipping or buying at a local AutoZone when the situation demanded.

Part	Date	Cost	Cost Plus Labor	Yearly Totals	Yearly + Labor
X-Brace	July 2010	$125	$200
Shocks / bushings / motor & tranny mounts	July 2010	$1,500	$2,700	$1,625	$2,900
Head Gasket / valve guides / cover gasket et al	July 2011	$700	$2,200
Camshaft Position Sensor	Dec 2011	$75	$150	$775	$2,350
Front Wheel Bearings	July 2012	$109.50	$300
S50 Manifold Swap	September 2012	$250	$600
Flex Disc	September 2012	$95.50	$200	$455.00	$1,100
Subframe + Bushings	Feb 2013	$257	$457
Coolant Hoses	Apr 2013	$15	$85
Headliner	April 2013	$250	$450
Sway Bar reinforcement (Rear subframe)	Apr 2013	$25	$225
Oil Separator	May 2013	$53.75	$150
Ignition Coils	May 2013	$357	$450
Differential (3.38 LSD)	Dec 2013	$430	$950	$1,388	$2,767
Mass Air Flow Sensor	Feb 2014	$401	$450
Recaro Seats	July 2014	$800	$1,700
Final Stage Unit	Sep 2014	$116	$225
Fan Blower Motor	Sep 2014	$372	$535	$1,689	$2,910
Cooling system (radiator, fan, relay, exp tank)	July 2015	$640	$1,040
Apex Wheels	August 2015	$1,150	$1,150
Turner Sway Bars	Aug 2015	$200	$350
Driveshaft	September 2015	$450	$625	$2,440	$3,165
Hood / trunk shocks, gas cap.	Feb 2016	$119	$190
Clutch / flywheel	Mar 2016	$906	$1,900
Rogue Shifter	Mar 2016	$410	$695
Transmission Detente Full Refresh	Mar 2016	$314	$750
Starter	March 2016	$125	$165
Windshield Trim / ABS sensors	May 2016	$149	$320
Rear Wheel Bearings	September 2016	$200	$950	$2,223	$4,970
Lock Actuators	Apr 2017	$90	$300
Door Handle	Apr 2017	$177	$500
Springs	June 2017	$250	$550
Glove Box Button / Instrument panel bulbs	June 2017	$20	$40
End Links	August 2017	$109	$150
E46 ZHP Steering Rack	Oct 2017	$150	$500
Tie Rods	Oct 2017	$152	$200
E34 Steering Joint	Oct 2017	$35	$100
O2 Sensors	Oct 2017	$125	$180	$1,108	$2,520
Totals		$11,703	$22,682

[Nanniepoo]

While I did buy my E36 while living in the dorms, I wouldn't risk it again. I need a driveway at minimum, because yes it constantly needs some sort of tinkering. And it's hard to hear at your age, but as someone who is older and maybe a little wiser, your money will be much better off being invested than into a car. Especially since I don't think you'll have the disposable income to keep up with quality repairs and the car will slowly get away from you until you're forced to part with it.

[blckstrm]

While I did buy my E36 while living in the dorms, I wouldn't risk it again. I need a driveway at minimum, because yes it constantly needs some sort of tinkering. And it's hard to hear at your age, but as someone who is older and maybe a little wiser, your money will be much better off being invested than into a car. Especially since I don't think you'll have the disposable income to keep up with quality repairs and the car will slowly get away from you until you're forced to part with it.

^ True.

My head gasket failing was a critical fork in the road for me. We had three cars at the time, and I was unwilling to spend almost what I paid for the car to have someone else do it. I spent months researching how to do it correctly and was ultimately successful. But I'd think about what you'd do if something that severe happened to your car.

Because it will, and then you'll have to make a choice if you haven't already thought about what to do.

More to Nanni's point, we all have little non-urgent things we're waiting for a good opportunity to address. But most of us fix major stuff immediately. More than immediately, preventatively before the failure cascades to other parts or systems. If this is your only vehicle and you don't have the ability to throw down money for a new clutch or transmission the day it fails - and have the ability to install it - I'd think twice about getting something this old.

And if that's totally what you're looking for - in fact, already planning a 6-speed swap from an E46 - then welcome to the club!

[newman995]

^ True.

My head gasket failing was a critical fork in the road for me. We had three cars at the time, and I was unwilling to spend almost what I paid for the car to have someone else do it. I spent months researching how to do it correctly and was ultimately successful. But I'd think about what you'd do if something that severe happened to your car.

Because it will, and then you'll have to make a choice if you haven't already thought about what to do.

More to Nanni's point, we all have little non-urgent things we're waiting for a good opportunity to address. But most of us fix major stuff immediately. More than immediately, preventatively before the failure cascades to other parts or systems. If this is your only vehicle and you don't have the ability to throw down money for a new clutch or transmission the day it fails - and have the ability to install it - I'd think twice about getting something this old.

And if that's totally what you're looking for - in fact, already planning a 6-speed swap from an E46 - then welcome to the club!

This sums up what i was trying to say to a T. If you have the motivation and the money to have a car like an e36 m3 go for it. If you just want the car because of the cool factor and you arent really thinking of the importance of proper maintenance on these vehicles, i would spend the money elsewhere.

As for the insurance, i wouldnt worry too much. No matter what you buy at your age, the insurance is going to be high. To put it into perspective, when i was your age i bought a 1987 325. I paid 900 for it and oh boy was it a piece of work. I paid $150 a month for LIABILITY ONLY. So dont worry about it.