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Thread: Green stuff from the A/C drain tube.

  1. #1
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    Green stuff from the A/C drain tube.

    Hi all, I crawled under the car to change the transmission fluid and noticed something green dripping on the side on the transmission drain pan. Looks like it's coming from the A/C drain tube. Since the only green stuff in the car is the antifreeze, is that a symptom of a leaking heater core? Thanks.

  2. #2
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    You hit the nail on the head! If you are going to tackle this job I suggest a few Hail Mary's and some Our Fathers.

  3. #3
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    tsmcg161: with duct tape and chewing gum, I think am good to go ... ;-)

  4. #4
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    Thats what im talking about. Did mine a year ago along with the evaporator. Dont care to do it again anytime soon. Good luck.

  5. #5
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    If it is coming from the drain tube from the expansion tank, that is normal, when you overfilled the coolant. Coolant expands when hot, and then the coolant cap valve opens and lets the fluid out. Or the cap is defective.
    Or do you means it comes from the area where the heater core is?
    The drain pipe from expansion tank goes down just in front of the firewall, the drain hoses from heater core goes down under the heater core = more backwards from the firewall.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  6. #6
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    If it is the evap it's a hell of a job to change it
    Last edited by jclausen; 10-15-2017 at 12:03 AM.

  7. #7
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    IMG_20171014_144145625.jpgThis is what I'm talking about. It's on the side of the tunnel, passenger side, right above the transmission. I don't think it's coming from the coolant reservoir. I don't know where the drain is for the A/C but am pretty sure this is the one. I hope it's just an o-ring that's gone bad.

  8. #8
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    That comes from heater core, the one from coolant reservoir is going down in engine bay above the bell housing, and that is a small hose.
    Could be just an O-Ring, or one of the plastic pipes from heater core to firewall or in worst case the heater core. Relax, it is doable, many have done it.
    On my website there are pics http://twrite.org/shogunnew/topmenu.html click fixes and then go to climate control.
    In the old days more than 10 years ago there were instructions for this which included also to remove the complete dashboard, this is NOT necessary, just the center console, side panels, the glovebox and the stell pipe, see instructions.
    http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1074058 pics unfortunately no longer working
    here E34 and pics working, good info https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...(IHKA-content)
    https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/F...eater_core.jpg
    http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/ihka/ihka.html
    fastest time we did it was 4 hours, longest 1 day with 2 shadetree mechanics. But depends what you have to replace. Good Luck, and make some pics.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  9. #9
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    I get to check the supposedly coolant leak but it turns out to be a bigger problem infact there is no coolant leak. the green stuff is the compressor oil oozing out of the txv. Now that's a bummer!IMG_20171015_094220780_BURST001.jpg

  10. #10
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    That is basically a good news, much easier to change. These pics will help http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/airc...n_o-rings.html
    https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/m...es/4810988.jpg
    https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/481en/index.htm

    new expansion valve below $20 http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...ansion%20Valve
    O-Ring and gasket kit $25 http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...20Gasket%20Kit

    If you are lucky, even no need to pull out the expansion valve, looks like 1 o-ring leaks under that round plate.
    Last edited by shogun; 10-15-2017 at 10:28 AM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  11. #11
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    I was contemplating on switching to 134a actually so I guess in a way this will really make me do it. The cover is wet on the other side like something squirting out which suggests it's leaking from multiple points. Did you guys use the existing compressor oil when you switched to 134a or changed it?

  12. #12
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    I used the existing compressor, it is compatible with R134a. I did it more than 10 years ago, changed the dryer as that was leaking and the pressure switch on the dryer (also leaking), made a long vacuum with a cheap vacuum pump and then did it like this with a E134a kit http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/77998 http://www.meeknet.co.uk/E38/AC/Index.htm
    Compressors incompatible with R134a http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/airc...con_R134a.html so only the very old ones
    I did not change any o-rings.
    The kits include the oil in the cans with the R134a as well as the new ports

  13. #13
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    shogun: I thought R12 has been phased out world wide. R134a is surely less efficient than R12 not to mention higher system pressure. I have the tools and refrigerant including pag oil. I just have to buy the o-rings and dryer. I looked at the link you posted for incompatible compressors and I hope mine would not be one of them. Can I use the compressor and the dryer from an e34 donor car just in case I need one?.

  14. #14
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    R12 is phased out, R134a is working well in my car, no problem. I assume your compressor will be compatible, as it is a 1990 model, only the very old built years were not compatible. If a E34 compressor fits: find out the part number of the one installed in your car, go to realoem and paste that number in the search for PART NR APPLICATION SEARCH
    then you know
    Dryer: buy a new one, never use an old, used dryer, they are cheap anyway.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  15. #15
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    I just looked at the number on my compressor (green label) and it's not one of the incompatible ones. You are right about the dryer, talk about penny pinching ...
    I have to work on this before it gets really cold. Thank you sir for your help, I will have an update very soon.

  16. #16
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    Do not use PAG oil unless you can flush the system 100%, use ester oil. Its fully compatible with both R12 and 134a and more importantly its comparable with any remaining mineral oil in the system. PAG is not compatible with mineral oil and will separate. You can get ester oil at most auto shops and its inexpensive.

    I converted my system over with zero modifications. My drier was shot also, so I did replace that and they are all 134 compatible anyway now. I of course replaced a couple o-rings with the drier and a couple up front on connections. Then I removed the compressor, drained it of oil and refilled with the proper amount of oil for a system with a new drier. Charged it back up with 134a and its been fine ever since.
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  17. #17
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    unity: I will take that into consideration. Thank you.

  18. #18
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    R-12 was only phased out from OEM applications which is why there is still some around for repair work but it is of dubious origin or purity.

  19. #19
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    unity: how much ester oil did you add in the system?

  20. #20
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    that apparently depends on compressor type/brand/maker, in 2012 I posted this info from an alldata info http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1070488/
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  21. #21
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    ^ Yup. FYI I did not flush my system, so I had to use my best guess on oil. But the bulk of the oil will reside in the dryer and compressor. Since I did not know for sure how much was lost in my rusted out dryer I had to drain the compressor and refill accordingly. I think the bottle I bought was 2 ounce but I did not use it all. Even thought I knew how much I would add back in, I did use a measuring cup to see what came out of the compressor to compare.
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  22. #22
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    Certainly percentage of oil stays in the drier, evap, lines and condenser, right? the oil that's in the compressor plus the one on 4 other locations equal 100% of oil in the system correct?

  23. #23
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    IMG_20171021_182546432.jpg
    I pulled the evaporator out and this was what I saw caught between the intake side of it and the sword. looks like insulation coming from somewhere.
    IMG_20171022_124646242.jpg
    I wish they put cabin filter back then.

  24. #24
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    Thats looks like a mouse/rat nest. Clean that crap out. Evaporator almost appears to be leaking in multiple spots? Unless the expansion valve leak really did let stuff creak that far back.
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  25. #25
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    Expansion valve leaked probably from all points as it was covered with oil. Also, that short bent pipe on top of the txv is frozen into it. Even the cap on the side of it was spewing oil. I think somebody was here before me doing something with the ac. IMG_20171020_234028941.jpg

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