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Thread: BMW e39 m52tu - high pressure power steering hose, banjo bolt

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
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    Norway
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    E34, E39, F10

    BMW e39 m52tu - high pressure power steering hose, banjo bolt

    hello.

    I have a little stupid question here but i need a little bit help..
    I recently replaced the high pressure power steering hose, the one that goes from the PS pump to the steering box.
    The reason why i needed to change was because the old one did fall from its attachment point (right where the U- shape of the hose is)
    and it had scraped on the ground for a while without me noticing before it was to late.

    but anyway what i am facing now is, i have a oil leak from the steering box where the 19mm banjo bolt sits.
    I have tighten it as much as i could but it still leaks.

    do you think that i have tighten it too much so the washers do not function as they should?

    I could not fit a flexed 19mm socket on there with extensions,
    as it was very tight and it would only sit on the bolt halfway and ending up damaging the bolt,
    so i had to approach it from the rear with a 19mm U-joint and using both my hands with very little room for travel.
    another thought is that i might have damaged the threads, but it really does not feel like it,
    it just came to a stop at a point and i assume if i try to tighten it with big force now, i will break it..

    And, is it possible that it leaks because the banjo bolts hole, is not aligned with the hose hole? and if,
    how do i know when its aligned -or did they make the bolt, to only entry in a certain position so it would be aligned, by using the correct torque? -
    and if so how do you fit a torques wrench in that tight space?
    10358_LI (2).jpg
    thanks for any reply.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    Did you replace the washers that go in both sides of the mango bolt? Try that before you over tighten the banjo bolts.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    yes i replaced both washers. today i tried with only using the top washer and it was not leaking as it did, only dripping small.. but then i tried again with using both and i managed to break the threads, so now i will need to replace the steering box aswell..

  4. #4
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    You need to heed the torque specs.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
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    Norway
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    Yea i belive the right torque is 35nm, which is not exactly that much.. but no matter how it kept leaking.. i suspect that the lower washer was perhaps not 100% centered, even though it has almost no play when it sits arround the bolt.. but perhpas that is what caused the leak.. anyway i screwed up and tightened it too much and the threads broke so now i need to change the whole steering box hah.. when i get the replacement i will tighten the hoses before i mount it up in place thats for sure, cause that is really a tight room you have to work in when it is mounted in place. perhaps with the right tools i might have fitted a torque ratchet there but with my tools i could not.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    E39M5, E500 4WD
    I don't know how much that rack's going to cost you, but, you know you could drill, tap, and TimeSert the fitting, instead? Yes, you'll almost certainly still have to remove the rack to do this.

    If you buy a replacement rack, I suggest RackDoctor.
    http://www.shop.rackdoctor.net/

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    E34, E39, F10
    I thought about that but i spoke to a friend mechanic and he said drilling and making new threads would not be a good result..

    RackDoctor seems to have reasonable prices, too bad they dont ship overseas..
    a new original rack is about 2100 dollars here in norway, and an unoriginal is about 550 dollar..
    There is also an option where i can deposit my old and get a used one for 200 dollars, which i am considering.

    But first i will drop by the local scrap yard where I know there is a 99 e39 and ask how much they are charging for the rack.
    Sure i will have to disassemble it my self but if its in good condition and if i can save some money, both me and my wallet will be happy.

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    hiss by my window
    How deep is the hole the banjo bolt goes in? maybe it is threaded a bit deeper than needed and IF you could find a banjo bolt a bit longer could catch enough threads to hold. just thinking out loud https://www.belmetric.com/index.php?...hr7daska2dcaf3

    Don't be afraid of repairing the threads, a proper job is actually stronger than the original threads in aluminum.
    Last edited by ross1; 10-16-2017 at 09:04 AM.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
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    Norway
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    My Cars
    E34, E39, F10
    I ended up replacing the steering rack which i got for 51 dollar from the scrap yard. while the the car was on jack stands,
    I lifted the engine about 4-6 inches, from the oil pan. wiggled the rack back in place, mounted the steering column and tie rods,
    and attached the hoses and banjo bolts for the final.
    the replacement was a success, it is not leaking, but the steering is slightly harder than it use to be. but hey, for 51 dollars, i am pretty satisfied.

    The rack was from a 96 e39,
    which had the old PS pump, and not the new LUK-LF30 which mine has.
    But the rack is the same, it has the same part number, it is only slightly different on one high pressure pipe that goes from the one side of the rack to the other.
    So if anyone get caught up in the same situation as me, yes you can use an older models rack.
    Last edited by Vega2k; 10-19-2017 at 07:26 PM.

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