Hey all, I'm fixing a friend's e23 and the key won't turn in the ignition!
I made sure it was the correct key.
I checked and the key works in the doors and glove box, so it seems like the key is okay, although worn.
The steering wheel IS locked, but turning it doesn't solve the problem. I've lubricated the tumblers as best I can, and it's been sitting for days. I checked the gear selection, and it's firmly in park.
I'm starting to think the steering lock is seized or something. I'm comfortable taking the steering column apart, since it's air-bag free, but I honestly wouldn't enjoy it much. However, it seems to be headed that way. Any insight into removing the lock cylinder and wheel lock assembly would be very appreciated. Or, if I'm barking up the wrong tree!
Thanks in advance.
Just because the key opens the doors and glovebox that doesn't mean the ignition barrel is the original one, I've ran into a few e36's I have purchased which have a key for the doors and glovebox and another key for the ignition barrel. I would assume that's the case unless that same key has been used by your friend and he's driven the car with the same key! But hey I'm not a tech or a pro I'm just giving you my opinion based on previous experiences !
C217 S63 AMG S Cabriolet ( Daily )
E87 116i with mild cams, headers, cold air intake making 136 bhp Lol (My Learning Track Car)
E36 328i Sport ( Project in making and future race/track car )
It's very likely that the ignition / steering lock housing is worn out and internally broken. The best thing you can do is to replace the lock housing, the lock cylinder, and the key, so that the car will continue to start, run and be healthy for another several decades.
It's not a really fun job. I'm not sure on an E23, but on everything newer, there are shear bolts involved, which are, um, difficult.
I have found that occasionally, you can make the current pieces work again......but you'll have no idea whether this will last for one drive, or a month.....or whether, because of the broken pieces in the lock housing, the steering might suddenly lock while you're going around a corner.
You may sometimes make the current pieces work again by yanking violently back and forth on the wheel, while trying to turn key to start and back again, over and over until it works....or not. I have seen this work after half an hour of doing this. I highly recommend against this, because of potential serious danger.
EDIT: Do not have a new key cut using the old one. It's worn out, so the new one, cut this way, will be also. Order the key with the lock cylinder and housing, from the dealership, with the registration and a matching driver's license.
Last edited by bmwdirtracer; 09-26-2017 at 08:24 PM.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Thanks for the replies! I'm sure it's they right key, it's the only one they have!
Sounds like the full replacement will be the answer. Is there a service manual that outlines the process anywhere? I have the Bentley for my E36, but nothing for E23. I hate talking to the stealer, but for the sake of having one key to rule the car, I'm gonna have to. Thanks again!
Thanks to Shogun:
https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/397en/index.htm
At this forum, we have many pro techs and dealer techs, and we seriously dislike the term "stealer". The dealer employs excellent, well trained people, and the business model is fair and aboveboard.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
I'm sure you do! Sorry for the offense. Sincerely. Paying someone a living wage and keeping a dealership running isn't cheap. Not all dealers are stealing.
Name-calling aside, Shogun has solved my problems like six times when I came across his posts.
Thanks for the help!
Alright guys (and gals): I've used that resource as much as I can, but the pictures are just too bad to really get the exacts of what they're asking of me. So here's where I've gotten:
1)
Sheer off bolts.jpg
I've removed the sheer off bolts that suck massively to deal with. Hurrah. There are 5 of them, the last of which held on the plate for the steering lock.
2)
Ignition set screw.jpg
I removed the set screw hoping that would release the assembly so I could pull it out. No such luck. I have more to do? At this point the manual says "pull out ignition switch." But gives no indication of HOW to pull it out? I tried pulling on it, but the whole thing just rocked a little in it's casing. I'm thinking I need to get under the upper column housing? This is where I'm lost.
3)
Left Side Deep.jpg Telescope steering.jpg Steering coumn deep right.jpg
The upper casing of the column seems still very attached to the steering shaft, and the manual tells me to remove the screws on the right and left of the 'pedal base.' I think they're these?
Any help would be SUPER appreciated. It's been weeks of little bits here and there and I would love to get this off my plate. Thanks in advance!
In picture 3, see that painted 13mm head bolt with the plastic washer? The directions mention a plastic washer, I'd have a close look at that.
And, try removing the ignition switch after turning the key in the lock, because the directions for install say to return key to "0" position.
Your pictures are much better than the 30 year old tiny ones, but I still wish I were there to see for myself, sorry....
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
I'm gonna look at that bolt you pointed out! I didn't even see it outside of the photo! Thanks for the quick reply. I'll let you know how it goes, and I'm gonna get more good pics for posterity.
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