My windshield reservoir is full of fluid but the fluid will not spray through the wipers. Checked the holes where fluid comes out...nothing obstructing the holes. The reservoir appears to be leaking (see pic). Any ideas what is causing the problem? Please advise. Thanks
My experience is that there doesn't seem to be a lot holding that drain hose and grommet in place. Mine was leaking once and I just fiddled with it and it stopped leaking. I don't even know what I did.
With the assistance of a friend, can you hear the pump activate when the washer switch is pulled? If yes, then you've probably got a blockage in tank or kink in the lines. If no, your pump is either electrically unplugged or just broken. I just replaced mine (the reservoir was empty) and replacement cost for the pump, the grommet gasket and shipping was under $15 from FCP Euro. The only tool (a flat head screwdriver for my coupe) you'll need is one to remove the reservoir from the car, which you need to do in order to drain or you'll dump a reservoir of fluid on your feet A final thought, have you recently waxed your car? I've been know to clog a washer nozzle or 2 with wax. A straight pin will easily clean and re-aim the nozzles.
Blue Ridge Mountains
1999 2.8 Z3 Coupe
Arctic Silver
My heated nozzles quit spraying, and I read that the heating hastened the deposits that the heating of the fluid caused.
So I bought and installed new heated nozzles. Still no spray.
It turned out to be a clogged pump:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...2#post29218902
BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405
I guess the pump is not working b/cause don't hear any activity from the pump. It could not be connected. I'll remove the reservoir tomorrow and check that out before ordering a new pump.
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Apparently your fiddle worked very well...:-)
Did you check the fuse?
I think this is the pump needed for w/s wiper....correct?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/aud...mp-67128362154
So feed it direct power and ground at the plug with test leads to see if it's the pump or something in the wiring or switch.
Oh hey, I wasn't trying to be a smart Alec or calling you a dip sh** or anything with that question btw, it's just that I've learned not to make any assumptions with diagnostics, and that it's better to ask a stupid question and eliminate it from inquiry, than to hold back for fear of offending anyone. I know you know this Morrie, because we've diagnosed together before, but I just want to be clear for others.
Oh, and if you don't have a set of test leads, Harbor Freights has a 36" set for $2.99 that should do the trick nicely--a must have in the diagnostic tool kit imho.
Last edited by Mr Bingley; 10-14-2017 at 06:02 AM.
Okay, I plead ignorance....need some help with checking the wiring to see if the pump is not working due to a electrical wiring issue. See pics of wiper pump (unplugged) and tool being used to detect wiring issues. Specific details will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Last edited by MORRIE; 10-20-2017 at 03:27 PM.
I would just put 12v to it and see if it turns on. It's a very simple system, its just a reservoir, a pump and some hose. If it's not leaking the reservoir is ok, if the pump turns on it must be a clog somewhere
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When I turn on the ignition, I do not hear the pump turning on. I think it's a bad pump. However it could be an electrical issue. Can you walk me through the entire process using the tester shown in the photo that I posted?
Last edited by MORRIE; 10-20-2017 at 04:19 PM.
Ok, so that is a test lamp, which you can use to determine whether the plug is receiving a 12V + signal, and whether it's grounded, when the switch is activated, but I was suggesting (and others are as well) that you use test leads to feed the pump 12V + and ground, and see if it works when bi-passing the entire wiring system. If it works, then the problem is in the wiring, if it doesn't, then the problem is in the pump. You get two test leads in a set--one red and one black. Connect one end of the red to the battery + (the jump terminal under the hood) and one end of the black to ground (the strut mounting bolt is a good place to ground). Test that you have good + and - by clipping your test leads to your test light and seeing that it lights up. Once you're satisfied you have good test connections, clip a small picture nail or bent paper clip in the other end of each lead, and, carefully, so as not to touch the two together or let them touch the car, touch the red lead to one terminal in the pump, and the black lead to the other. If the pump buzzes and the squirts squirt, you're done--if not, try touching them the other way around (red and black wise). If this results in buzzing and squirting, you're done. If neither works, and you check your test leads again by toughing them to your test lamp, then you need a new pump.
Last edited by Mr Bingley; 10-20-2017 at 06:34 PM.
Yesterday, I re-connected the pump's electrical parts and low and behold when I tried the washer, I could hear the pump working again. After putting some wiper fluid into the reservoir I pressed the wiper button and no spray but I could hear the pump working. I put in some more fluid thinking the pump may not have been able to pump the water into the system. After the 3rd try....fluid sprayed onto the windshield. Go figure!!
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Thanks for taking the time to explain the entire process. Don't know how I can repay you, but I owe you one.
Great news. There was probably some oxidation on the contacts - taking them off and back on cleaned it off. If you've got some contact cleaner put some on. But not worth buying any. The system takes a l-o-n-g time to prime. 3 try's sounds about right,
Blue Ridge Mountains
1999 2.8 Z3 Coupe
Arctic Silver
If it happens again, clean the contacts up with a little file, and use some dielectric grease.
Thanks guys....will make note of that and act accordingly if it happens again.
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