Good morning everyone; here are the details of the issue I'm experiencing
2006 E90 325i
Production 9/2005
Auto
ISSUE: Drove to a location without any symptoms & parked for 15 minutes. Upon returning to the car, it would crank (as in I push the key, makes the cranking or starting sound) & acts as if it is attempting to fire or turnover then nothing.
RECENT HISTORY: A week prior I had to have the alternator rebuilt & replaced the battery. The battery is a Duralast Gold to replace the previous Duralast regular that had been placed in the car previous to my ownership. I have not gone through the battery registration process; however, I've also not noticed any performance or electrical issues since replacing the components. Since the repairs, I've also filled the tank up once & have gotten through 1/2 of the tank before this issue.
I've done a lot of searching through threads & never seem to come to a definitive conclusion that has resolved this problem for others & the threads just seem to die off. I began looking through the fuse closet locate din the glove box; however, I can't seem to locate the fuel relay based on the diagrams that are associated to my fuse closet. I also have considered that it might be the fuel module located under the backseat.
Using a bavariantechnic.com basic cable I was able to pull the following codes:
Short Test
Engine module for N52
Current Fault Codes
2A80:
2A80 inlet-Vanos variable cam control test, input signal
Error will cause a warning light
Error is currently present
Test conditions have not been completed
Signal or value below threshold
Customer Information
Vehicle: 2005 BMW 325i VB23
Production Date: 09 / 2005
Odometer/License: 185286 /
Engine module for N52
Module Identification
Hardware Number 7577968
Hardware Version Number 00
Coding Index 04
Diagnostic Index 0100
Variant Index 3334
Date Of Manufacture 20050912
System Supplier Siemens
Message Catalog Version 0.0.0
Software Version 0.0.0
OS Version 0.0.0
Current Fault Codes
2A80
2A80 inlet-Vanos variable cam control test, input signal
Error will cause a warning light
Error is currently present
Test conditions have not been completed
Signal or value below threshold
Freeze Frame Information
Event 1Odometer 298184kms 185282miles
Engine speed 0.00 rpm
Voltage terminal 87 11.88 V
Event 2Odometer 298184kms 185282miles
Engine speed 0.00 rpm
Voltage terminal 87 11.88 V
Event 3Odometer 298184kms 185282miles
Engine speed 0.00 rpm
Voltage terminal 87 11.68 V
2A85
2A85 outlet-VANOS variable cam control test
Error will cause a warning light
Error is currently present
Test conditions have not been completed
Signal or value below threshold
Freeze Frame Information
Event 1Odometer 298184kms 185282miles
Engine speed 0.00 rpm
Voltage terminal 87 11.88 V
Event 2Odometer 298184kms 185282miles
Engine speed 0.00 rpm
Voltage terminal 87 11.88 V
Event 3Odometer 298184kms 185282miles
Engine speed 0.00 rpm
Voltage terminal 87 11.68 V
2EF5
2EF5 map thermostat, input signal
Error will not cause a warning light
Error is currently present
Test conditions have not been completed
Signal or value below threshold
2E85
2E85 elctrical cooling pump, communication
Error will not cause a warning light
Error is currently present
Test conditions have not been completed
Freeze Frame Information
Event 1Odometer 298184kms 185282miles
Engine speed 0.00 rpm
cooling fluid temperature OBD 28.00 °C
Voltage terminal 87 11.88 V
Event 2Odometer 298184kms 185282miles
Engine speed 0.00 rpm
cooling fluid temperature OBD 28.00 °C
Voltage terminal 87 11.88 V
Event 3Odometer 298184kms 185282miles
Engine speed 0.00 rpm
cooling fluid temperature OBD 28.00 °C
Voltage terminal 87 11.78 V
2A9A
2A9A camshaft sensor inlet, signal
Error will cause a warning light
Error is currently present
Test conditions have not been completed
Short circuit or signal interruption
Freeze Frame Information
Event 1Odometer 298184kms 185282miles
Engine speed 160.00 rpm
(Engine) oil temperature 34.00 °C
Voltage terminal 87 10.56 V
Event 2Odometer 298184kms 185282miles
Engine speed 128.00 rpm
(Engine) oil temperature 34.00 °C
Voltage terminal 87 10.26 V
- - - Updated - - -
After doing some research on the above codes I decided to take a look at the Vanos solenoids to see if cleaning them up would help out. When I pulled them both out they were literally coated & dripping in oil. I sprayed them both down with brake cleaner then compressed air dried them both & also wiped down the solenoid entries before putting them back in. The car now seems to be cranking much stronger now but still no starting. ordered 2 new ones & wait for them to arrive hoping that it will resolve the issue. If anyone has any other thoughts please feel free to interject.
Anyone?
For issues like this, check for fuel pressure and spark. I don't think a vanos issue would prevent starting. I think replacing the vanos solenoids is a good move based on those specific codes. Take a look at your wiring harness, it's a little odd to see a number of potential short/open circuit codes. First check for spark, then check fuel pressure either with a code scanner or see if fuel sprays out of the schrader valve on the fuel rail. If you still come up empty handed, check compression on all six cylinders. Then pull the valve cover and check camshafts and timing.
My bet is something fuel pressure related, at that mileage the fuel pump is a real possibility. I had a crank/no start on an n54 related to a broken camshaft, but I highly doubt that is your problem. The water pump and thermostat codes are a little odd, have they been there before? Did you have any "VANOS retard/mechanical jam" codes recently?
I ended up taking the car into a reputable area shop to have them diagnose & repair what the heck is happening & this is what they found out.
1. Motor mount broke & the bolts snapped causing the motor to shift.
2. When the motor shifted it damaged the thermostat, shredded the thermostat wire loom & connector.
3. The shredded wires then cause a short which blew the starter fuse in addition to a couple of other fuses.
Tech said that he has only seen this happen one other time in an X5 due to hitting a gnarly pothole. 1300.00 later & I have a new thermostat, motor mounts, fluid, harness, fuses & vanos solenoids.
Wow! This reminds me of an episode of Top Gear where weird electrical issues happened to Jeremy Clarkson in a Porsche 968 (or similar?) when a shock mount broke and busted through a wiring loom. But he had driven that Porsche offroad for a long time... so I didn't think something like that could happen to a normal car. Anyway, glad to hear it's been figured out.
The first time a encountered broken motor mount bolts was on an x3 with the n engine, it was leaking coolant, the right bolts had broke and the motor was leaning to the right and had worn a hole thru the water pump body, aluminum bolts great idea
Wow! So the actual bolts had broken, and not the rubber mount itself? Proves how great BMW's new engineering is... I'll stick with my E32, thank you.
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