Thank you guys for reading this but I had just took my E36 to a import shop again and gave them this list.
Low beams don't work replaced fuses relays and switch.. Car takes while to return to normal idle which is 550 revs. sucking noise from oil fill cap. Poor mpg, clunk when shift from drive to neutral,revs drop slowly when revving it
Poor acceleration,
Coolant loss over couple of days
Rough idle when shifting
Then three hours later they called me n gave me a diagnostic paper of what they think. The iac has been cleaned but they recommend replacement due to the rough idle. No vaccum leaks found but they did find me some answers. Here's the two sheets I got. I do have Bosch double platinum spark plugs but they say they want me to switch to ngk b Bellow is a attachment
At least they did find my coolant leak n why my low beam weren't working because I really enjoy driving at night time n now I can. I paid 110$ for the fee to diagnose. And if anyone has any idea why the revs don't drop as smooth when I rev it plz let me know
IMG_20171010_162642119.jpgIMG_20171010_162654018.jpg
Last edited by zohaibrose; 10-10-2017 at 06:19 PM.
Haha they found your blown fuse Sorry but too funny.
Well that's obviously not a reasonable quote, but they found flaws that you were unable to. Now fix, the important ones.
Sorry but 550rpm is not normal, 750 is normal, in nuetral or park.
You can buy two shitty E36's for 2k !
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
Sounds reasonable. Do ALL of the DIY doable ‘stuff’ and let them handle the rest. These cars are not inexpensive to maintain, but they have to be maintained.
Just do it!!!!
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Make a video showing how the idle drops. Make sure it doesn't suck.
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Your thud when going from drive to neutral is your differential, it's low on fluid, change the fluid. Get the fluid for non-lsd 75w-90, get full synthetic. You need two new crush washers.
Last edited by Eric93se; 10-10-2017 at 06:34 PM.
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
For spark plugs get, DENSO 4702 Iridium TT, from rockauto.com
or
BOSCH 8100 OE Fine Wire Double Platinum
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If you don't usually work on a car you have to understand the concept of torque and how to properly tighten something, to loose can be as bad as to tight. Get a torque wrench and learn how to use it. Download the Bentley manual for the car.
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
Cleaning the icv and changing plugs is easy. I've always had good luck with ngk's. Bluptgm3 has the most reasonable answer.
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I run the NGK BR6KE plugs, they run mint in these cars. Single electrode resistor core as specced.
Nice that the headlights are fixed.
If they're brand new then they are probably fine. But we don't recommend them
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All the answers are here on the forum, on youtube and in the Bentley manual. We are here to help but you have to have confidence and be willing to learn, do a lot of reading and watch others on youtube do stuff.
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Rmeuropean.com and rockauto.com are good places to shop, so when you build a parts list you can get free ship at rmeuropean.com with orders over $65
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
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Do the work yourself, save hundreds of dollars.
I don’t recall which model you have, but here is what I found in www.realoem.com
1996+ 328 (M52)
NGK BKR6EQUP
BOSCH FGR7DQP
1992-1995 325 (M50)
NGK BKR 6 EK
BOSCH F 7 LDCR
It is likely these numbers have been superseded but it is a starting point.
My recollection of spark plugs is that the M50/S50 prefers NGK brand and the 1996+ M52/S52 prefers the Bosch brand.
You will most likely need to replace the coil extenders/spark plug extenders.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=12_1977
Are you familiar with www.realoem.com? The E36 is now considered a “classic” in realoem.
Use your cars build date (from sticker on drivers door “B” pillar) or last seven of your VIN number to determine proper parts for your BMW. Use those part numbers for shopping at your local part store or especially with on-line retailers.
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Last edited by bluptgm3; 10-11-2017 at 01:27 AM.
2 grand to fix what exactly? The spark plugs and idle air control valve?? I could have that done in less than an hour
M52b28's never have the revs drop quickly, it's part of the programming. Just remember the mark on the tach between 0 and 1000 rpms is not 500 but 600rpms. The crankcase operates under vacuum so that's why you hear the sucking sound when you pull the oil cap.
Last edited by jmo69; 10-11-2017 at 09:37 PM.
There is a way to get them to drop a little faster. At the junction of the intake boot and the hose to the ICV the airflow to the ICV needs to be restricted. I put a cheap ¼" drive 11mm socket, it fits nicely and the plastic connector keeps it from moving further down the hose.
don't think it's part of programming, would have been a real dumb guy to design it that way, as it doesn't have any sense. about the socket: this tells me the icv isn't closed while driving. why isn't it? it should be closed or am i drunk
You're missing a lot of stuff - which adds up quickly if you're buying it new and paying someone else to do all the work.
A new expansion tank is over $100 from the dealer. They're $20-$40 on Amazon.
Apply that same math to everything else, plus shop time to do the work, and you have a $2,000 bill.
You could probably sort all of this out for less than $400 new, or less than $100 from a salvage yard, and spend a Saturday morning doing the work yourself.
The Bentley manual and YouTube are your friends - you can do all of this stuff with very basic tools.
Please spend the money on some jack stands!
-Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.
E36 is a great car, don't get me wrong.
But if your the type that expects a shop to fix everything for you, I hope you have a big wallet. Frankly, most guys who do have the wallets to pay for high repairs, drive newer cars and make the payment instead.
E36 is an enthusiast car now, people don't drive them because they really 'have' too.
Best thing I can tell you is. The car is engineered awesomely and for the most part they are easy to work on. Get a decent socket set, get some torx sockets and go to town. Its more rewarding.
When you decide to go performance, if ever - Save your money to pay the guys then.
Last edited by 328iFun; 10-13-2017 at 04:56 PM.
yeah im not looking for no turbo build thats just gonna end up costing more then a used e36 m3.
but yeah alot of the stuff is easy to reach positions like alternator and fuel injectors but the interrior was made poorly like glove box, headliner sag, the door panels are held in by plastic clips and cheap regulator clips its just a mess. hondas dont have these problems because they were glued right in the first place. but they do have plastic interrior pieces but they still dont fall apart
I wasn't implying that you boost your car. In fact, I would suggest you do the opposite of that ESPECIALLY if you can't work on it yourself. And I would much rather have a boosted non-m than a stock E36 M3 or any boosted car for that matter - are you serious?
Like any other 20 year old car, it has it's problems. I wouldn't compare it to a Honda though, you wouldn't catch me driving civic or whatever they are in the same time era that the was E36 produced.
The things you are listing are so minor and easy to fix. Your talking some epoxy and maybe 2 hours of your time if your proficient.
It's the price you pay for owning one of the best/reliable motors ever made and pretty decent handling and weight distribution for a 20 year old vehicle to boot.
If you want to bash an E36 - do it right, like the rest of em'!
1. Go get a 90's civic or hatchback
2. Buy ebay terbo kit (hacksaw muffler off)
3. Go to local high school and rev engine for chicks
4. Come back and talk smack
If you want to learn how to fix or make a pretty fun car, search around. There's plenty of info! But there's no point in stating problems that everyone here already knows exist or comparing an E36 to Honda. You'll get shutdown quick!
Last edited by 328iFun; 10-16-2017 at 02:25 PM.
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