221k miles on original trans fluid...

[coolcom]

I have a 2000 528i touring. Has original GM transmission with original fluid and 221,000 miles on it.

Would you bother with changing the fluid now, or run it till it dies?

Thank you

[ColtonBH]

If the trans isn't slipping and seems to be overall running smoothly, I would change it. It's a lot cheaper than a whole transmission

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[Pelican Parts]

It's generally a good idea to replace it about every 60k miles although BMW fills it with a 'lifetime' of fluid, it's amazing that you've gotten away with over 200k with no issues. I've included a link to the procedure below in case you'd like to do it.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech..._Replacing.htm

[coolcom]

@ColtonBH, yes it is running quite well. There is a very minor clunk when going from Reverse to Drive, but other than that it is smooth and shifts normally. I am somewhat concerned that opening it up may create problems? Am I mistaken?

[ColtonBH]

@ColtonBH, yes it is running quite well. There is a very minor clunk when going from Reverse to Drive, but other than that it is smooth and shifts normally. I am somewhat concerned that opening it up may create problems? Am I mistaken?

At worst, you're just gonna delay needed a new transmission. It's not gonna hurt anything as long as you remember there are some delicate parts in there when you take off the pan, so just be careful

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[dannyzabolotny]

As long as you do a drain and fill you should be okay. The danger is when you do a power flush, because that moves stuff around too much. I've done fluid changes on cars ranging from 174k to 215k miles, and I've never had a transmission go bad after it. If the transmission feels worse afterwards it's likely due to the fluid levels not being correct. A lot of people underfill the transmissions.

[StephenVA]

+1 on the above post

[speed7]

Can you explain the difference between the drain and fill vs the power flush? I think I get it but didn’t know there was a power flush procedure.

[dannyzabolotny]

Can you explain the difference between the drain and fill vs the power flush? I think I get it but didn’t know there was a power flush procedure.

For the power flush you would disconnect the two transmission lines at the transmission heat exchanger. Then you'd run the engine so the fluid would be circulated by the transmission's internal fluid pump. One line would have old fluid coming out into a container, and you'd be adding new fluid to the other line. Essentially that forces a lot more of the old fluid out, but it can be harmful because you're forcing new fluid around instead of letting it work its way into the system gradually.

For a drain and fill you would drain the old fluid out of the transmission pan, remove the pan, replace the filter, and fill it with fresh fluid according to the fill procedure. This introduces new fluid at a gradual pace and allows it to mix with some of the old fluid so it's not a shock to the transmission. After doing a few drain and fills you eventually have all new fluid inside the transmission. It's a lot more gentle on an old transmission.

It's like drinking water from a bottle at your own pace versus getting it shot at you with a pressure washer.

[Coupenut]

For the power flush you would disconnect the two transmission lines at the transmission heat exchanger. Then you'd run the engine so the fluid would be circulated by the transmission's internal fluid pump. One line would have old fluid coming out into a container, and you'd be adding new fluid to the other line. Essentially that forces a lot more of the old fluid out, but it can be harmful because you're forcing new fluid around instead of letting it work its way into the system gradually.

For a drain and fill you would drain the old fluid out of the transmission pan, remove the pan, replace the filter, and fill it with fresh fluid according to the fill procedure. This introduces new fluid at a gradual pace and allows it to mix with some of the old fluid so it's not a shock to the transmission. After doing a few drain and fills you eventually have all new fluid inside the transmission. It's a lot more gentle on an old transmission.

It's like drinking water from a bottle at your own pace versus getting it shot at you with a pressure washer.

That's not exactly how a power flush works. The procedure described above is the recommended way to replace fluid if you're looking to replace all of your fluid. Using the transmission's internal pumps places no more stress on the transmission that it would receive in normal use. Instead of just recirculating fluid the old fluid is pumped into one receptacle and new fluid is introduced from a another.
A power flush is when an external pumping source is introduced. That's when you can run into problems. The external pump places more pressure and stress on the internals of your transmission possibly damaging seals and pumps. The BG fluid change process is one that doesn't stress the transmission internals. There are others out there but I'm personally familiar with BG's having had it performed on an E38 and E39. Stay away from quick fluid change places as many of them utilize machinery that employs an external pump.

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[jclausen]

With that mileage I would not do it

[ColtonBH]

With that mileage I would not do it

Just out of curiosity, what's your reasoning why not?

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[speed7]

Ahh makes sense on the power flush vs drain and fill. I’m draining my swamp next week. Can’t wait to see how smooth it shifts after two or three drains... such high mileage that we’ll be doing it a few times on the rack with no load. Can’t be too careful.

[TecNickal]

With that mileage I would not do it

Maybe with this being ZF transmission its of better quality, but at a certain mileage with ZERO service - are you prepared for the worst? It is definitely a risk - honestly moreso than just letting it be.

A clunk between R and D could be a mount allowing too much movement - I would let it be personally. Or is it really happening in the trans?

If you had 60K, then yea change it - but you have 221K! I know plenty of people in Ford world that rolled the dice on dropping the trans pan, changing filter, and refilling - 1/2 it worked fine, 1/2 made it worse and that was when it was 100-150k. That was also transmissions made of bubble gum, toothpicks, and unicorn farts (Ford's AX'' series of FWD junk) :-) Not a qualify ZF or GM 4L/5L automatic transmission.

[ColtonBH]

Maybe with this being ZF transmission its of better quality, but at a certain mileage with ZERO service - are you prepared for the worst? It is definitely a risk - honestly moreso than just letting it be.

A clunk between R and D could be a mount allowing too much movement - I would let it be personally. Or is it really happening in the trans?

If you had 60K, then yea change it - but you have 221K! I know plenty of people in Ford world that rolled the dice on dropping the trans pan, changing filter, and refilling - 1/2 it worked fine, 1/2 made it worse and that was when it was 100-150k. That was also transmissions made of bubble gum, toothpicks, and unicorn farts (Ford's AX'' series of FWD junk) :-) Not a qualify ZF or GM 4L/5L automatic transmission.

What's the risk that greater than changing fluid on a 60k transmission?

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[jclausen]

BMW recommended the change at 100k, zf actually recommend it at 60k. I don think it will improve performance of the trans. My trans works better on cold start if I idle the engine for a short period the it engages smoother. I service my trans at 99k after I got the car. The worry came from the e32, e34, 740, 540 cars it was not uncommon to have trans problems after changing fluid. But with no regular changing and now at 221k I feel it's a risk, clutches are worn ect and if it acts up after the change what are you going to do.

[coolcom]

Thank you everyone for the input! I decided to drain and fill. We'll see how it goes!!

[JaxPlanet]

Good luck!

Please post some pictures of old fluid next to new fluid when you're done.

[coolcom]

No pics, I must admit I did not do it myself. The mechanic said the fluid was as black as asphalt but no metal particulate.

[StephenVA]

and ......?

[coolcom]

After driving a few hundred miles, it is great and it feels actually better than before. Could be placebo affect, though.

Also had the front control arms and sway bars replaced...and that is noticeable difference, esp. at 75mph. Feels much more confident and connected. The bushings on the old control arms were completely shot. I will also be replacing the struts and rear subframe bushings and control arms as well.

[StephenVA]

Thanks for the follow up.

On the suspension refresh you will notice a much more connected and controlled feelings from the wheel and suspension as it sets up for a turn and under braking after completing your suspension refresh. I wrapped mine up a few months ago and there was a total transformation to the car. Link here on my experiences: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...6-Wagon-update
Suspension refresh starts on Post #14.