E30 - brake issue & fuel gauge issue

[MannnyE30]

I’m completely new to cars and I just wanted to know about a few things.
I have a Convertible BMW 318i 1992 - E30
1:
Whenever I start the car the brake fluid and anti lock comes on and when I rev lightly it goes away. When the motors off the brake tightens up when I push on the brake. However while the car is on the brake pedal doesn’t go lower than 1/3 of the way before it’s stops. While I’m driving the brake pedal once it goes 1/3 of the way the wheels lock and the car just skids. Now since there’s rainy weather it locks even faster. I assume my brakes are fully gone which is the reason why I can barely stop the car. I have a brand new set of rotors and brakes, just waiting for my tools to arrive so I can change them. Will this fix the issue ?
I know my car has ABS would putting in a new relay help?
2:
My fuel gauge is always flickering, going back and forth but sometimes it stops somewhere near where my gas level is. I assume it’s my fuel tank sender unit, and if it is I want to clean the resistance wires to see if that fixes it. Is that the first thing I should do? If so where is that... I don’t know where it is. I have a 1992 convertible 318i e30.
3:
Whenever I try to lock my car I have to go to the other side of car go in and lock driver side and then I can lock the passenger side from the outside since the locking mechanism works. If I were to insert the key into the keyhole on the driver side I can unlock the car but twisting it the other way (the right) it will go past where it’s suppose to and do nothing. I see it push the little lock switch(thing that goes up and down) twitches a little. Now my car has the electric locking system, will this fix if I were to fix the lock? And how will I go about fixing the lock.
4:
I don’t know if this goes with the first issue I had, but my car shakes once it reaches 40mph and I let go of the accelerating pedal. It’s usually when I’m in 4th and 5th gear.
The entire car just shakes like all of it? I thought it might be because of horrible brakes but I don’t know.

Thanks in advance even for reading and sorry for asking anything stupid.

[bmwdirtracer]

Welcome to the forum, Manny.

The "brake fluid" light indicates that your brake fluid level is low. Note that when you replace pads, the level will increase. However, the difference between new brakes and old brakes should not set off this warning, so there's another issue. Perhaps it's just low on fluid; perhaps there's a leak; perhaps the fluid level switch is bad.

Certainly, you should do a brake fluid flush after your brake job, and get rid of the nasty, ancient fluid that's probably in there. It may have already caused major issues, but if it hasn't already, it will.

The brakes locking indicates that the ABS system isn't working. Do you see an ABS warning light? Do you see an ABS light when you turn the ignition on, before starting the car?

It's unlikely that the ABS problem is due to the relay.


#'s 5 and 9 both send fuel level to the instrument cluster:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=16_0219
They live under the rear seat, remove the two circular covers to reach them.

It's just as likely to be a problem in the cluster internal circuits, by the way.

Do not use four letter words like this on the forum, or the moderator will have to edit the post, and warn you, then penalize you. It would be best for YOU to click on "Edit post", under your post, and delete that word.


You'll need to replace the part number 9 in this diagram: (you need to order from the dealership, and you'll need registration and driver's license....
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=41_0562
(note that there is an actual 11 digit part number -- "part 9" won't do it!)

You probably need control arm bushings. You may need control arms and other items too. You should have a BMW pro, or very experienced E30 owner, inspect your car, and make you a list.

[MannnyE30]

I made an error and said brake light and brake fluid light when I meant break fluid light and anti lock light comes on instead.
Whenever I start my car the Anti lock light comes on, but when i tap the acceleration pedal a little it goes away...
- Is it normal for my brake pedal to only go down a little and stop? (even when the motor is on)

Also I will be doing a brake change, rotor change, and a full brake fluid flush.
- Will I have to do this for the clutch as well?

I found out the shaking of the car was due to loose lug nuts on one of the tires... woops...

[bmwdirtracer]

Ya gotta watch out for those loose wheel bolts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kyMDNzhfwn0

Have you checked the brake fluid level? That takes maybe 15 seconds......

Please allow me to ask: Have you ever done pads and rotors and a brake /clutch flush before? You said you're "completely new to cars", and I'm worried for you. Do you have a knowledgeable friend there to help you?

Let's just say that I can think of a whole bunch of things which might go wrong, if this is your first adventure.....
broken bleed screws
clogged bleed screws
stripped out rotor retaining screws
you don't use jackstands, and the car falls on your head
to try to leave a spot for a jackstand, you jack the car up in the wrong spot, crushing the fuel and brake lines. or the spot where you tried to jack it up.

Do you have a rolling jack? Jackstands? Various size (5,6,7 mm) allen head sockets? Deep Creep, PB Blaster? Do you have a six-point 7mm socket for those rusted bleed screws?

Do you have a pressure bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, or a fluid hose and bottle and a friend who'd done this before?

I'm not trying to dissuade you, if you have the tools and someone there with you who knows what to watch out for, on a 25 year old car.

[MannnyE30]

I actually bought every single tool I'd need to do the job, the flush is the only thing I'd be worried about. I got 4 3ton jackstands, a proper jack, all the tools I'd need, all sockets, hex bits, torque wrench, regular wrenches, pressure bleeder, a friend, Disc brake quiet, Lube, Anti Seize, and how i usually learn everything through Youtube videos. I could call the guy who actually works at the shop, he's my friend, but I thought it wouldn't be too hard to change pads and rotors.

I checked the fluid level, it was good its just that it looked dirty.

I know the Youtube video thing may sound like a stretch but I've basically learned everything that way.

[MannnyE30]

Ya gotta watch out for those loose wheel bolts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kyMDNzhfwn0

Have you checked the brake fluid level? That takes maybe 15 seconds......

Please allow me to ask: Have you ever done pads and rotors and a brake /clutch flush before? You said you're "completely new to cars", and I'm worried for you. Do you have a knowledgeable friend there to help you?

Let's just say that I can think of a whole bunch of things which might go wrong, if this is your first adventure.....
broken bleed screws
clogged bleed screws
stripped out rotor retaining screws
you don't use jackstands, and the car falls on your head
to try to leave a spot for a jackstand, you jack the car up in the wrong spot, crushing the fuel and brake lines. or the spot where you tried to jack it up.

Do you have a rolling jack? Jackstands? Various size (5,6,7 mm) allen head sockets? Deep Creep, PB Blaster? Do you have a six-point 7mm socket for those rusted bleed screws?

Do you have a pressure bleeder or a vacuum bleeder, or a fluid hose and bottle and a friend who'd done this before?

I'm not trying to dissuade you, if you have the tools and someone there with you who knows what to watch out for, on a 25 year old car.

Yea I guess you were right, I made my friend do the back one while I did the front (hes not experienced), he snapped the caliper guide pin inside the caliper at the threads.

[bmwdirtracer]

Sorry, there are some times when I hate being right.

All is not lost. Undo the other guide bolt, then remove the caliper, and hang it with a coathanger from the coil spring. Now, unbolt the caliper mounting bracket from the wheel carrier. You'll find that the bottom part of the slide bolt resides there.

There are a couple of ways to deal with this:
1) Go to a salvage yard, preferably a "pick your own", and buy one. If they don't look up the price, new ($180 !), it will be VERY CHEAP.
2) Take it to a good shop, or a good machine shop, and ask them to drill it out for you, while trying to preserve the threads. Don't try this yourself; trust me. With an oxy-acetylene torch to superheat the mounting bracket, the remains of the screw may come out fairly easily, but there are a few "tricks", like center punching the bolt perfectly, probably from the opposite, undamaged side.

Um, your friend likely turned the socket the wrong way, confusing undoing with tightening, because he was working in reverse. These slide bolts are only torqued to maybe 15 ft lbs, and being stainless, they don't usually seize due to rust.

[MannnyE30]

Sorry, there are some times when I hate being right.

All is not lost. Undo the other guide bolt, then remove the caliper, and hang it with a coathanger from the coil spring. Now, unbolt the caliper mounting bracket from the wheel carrier. You'll find that the bottom part of the slide bolt resides there.

There are a couple of ways to deal with this:
1) Go to a salvage yard, preferably a "pick your own", and buy one. If they don't look up the price, new ($180 !), it will be VERY CHEAP.
2) Take it to a good shop, or a good machine shop, and ask them to drill it out for you, while trying to preserve the threads. Don't try this yourself; trust me. With an oxy-acetylene torch to superheat the mounting bracket, the remains of the screw may come out fairly easily, but there are a few "tricks", like center punching the bolt perfectly, probably from the opposite, undamaged side.

Um, your friend likely turned the socket the wrong way, confusing undoing with tightening, because he was working in reverse. These slide bolts are only torqued to maybe 15 ft lbs, and being stainless, they don't usually seize due to rust.

It was impossible to find someone selling the bracket in person, so I asked if I could get it drilled out but that didnt work out. I finally found someone on ebay selling two for $40 I took that. I finished up two wheels but all the disk set screws are stripped so I bought some of those.