Hi guys, im new here.
Bought an (almost) rust free 1978 635 chassis but missing "some" things.
I have the complete exterior and the interior.
However im missing the engine (not sure about the harness), trans, drivetrain, and the rear subframe.
The catch is that the whole car is taken apart, every last screw as far as im aware. While its a good thing since ill be restoring it, its bad at the same time since the pieces are not separated and all in boxes. So if its possible i will post some pics here so i can put it together.
I will repaint it in bronze, make it the same as the one from the famous pics shot on the boat docks from 1976, without the front air dam.
But first:
I bought an 520i E12 rear subframe with 4. something diff whitch ill get rid of and put the original 3.07 or 3.25. The E12 is 1974, will it fit onto the E24?
Are rear brakes the same?
For the engine, there is a nice 1979 E23 with the M90 and 5 speed trans. The engine itself will fit, however the harness, radiators, hoses... ill need your help with that.
Let the nerve-racking begin....
You're a brave man and will need a ton of patience to make the re-assembly work.
I am not sure what you mean by a rear sub-frame. Do you mean the axle carrier as depicted here ?
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=33_0187
If yes then the equivalent from an E12 is compatible.
If you are not familiar with RealOEM.com then allow me to introduce you to it. It will become your best friend in this demanding project I think.
When looking for cross model compatibility first identify the part number on the site then click on it and you will be brought to something like this showing you all the models the part in question was installed in:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...&q=33311124095
Try this method to see if the brakes from the E20 will fit . Welcome to the gang !
Big question is, is your car a Euro or NA car? If the engine has been smogged you will have a bit more fun figuring it out.Doing the same thing to an 81 euro. So, been there, done that. Contact me when you may need info and I will try to help you. Have much of it in my memory and can hopefully remember most of it. Harness etc won't be too hard to find as it is an LJet injection system. Radiator and hoses will be very easy to find. When.am putting mine together, hardest items to find were interior cosmetic bits. <any things are still dealer available.
81 Euro undergoing total nut and bolt restoration
pictures at: flickr.com/photos/bertsphotos
Should be a Euro since he is in Zagreb
Hey guys. Its an euro, not yet sure about the month of manufacture.
By the rear sub frame i mean everything, the whole rear assembly which holds the diff, arms, wheels...
How hard is it to find the front valance?
Now, i know that the rear axle carrier fits.
However what about the shock tops? Will they just screw in or do i need new top covers?
The donor car is a 1974 or 75 E12. Mine is an E24/1.
The car is here
However ive lost most of my will and wanted to strangle the ex owner because:
- because "Hey, why would i unplug the wires and hoses when i can cut them off instead"
- when you photograph the parts and put them in the car, you cover it with something when the glasses are off so it doesnt rain inside for a month or so so the interior is crap now
- for thinking that " hey, why not just put the glasses on their place but not glueing them or strapping them", because the rear one WILL fly off on the highway while on the truck - guess what? Suprise suprise, it did
- they forgot the garage key so i didnt get the rims, seats, lights and some other bits for it, however he told me he will bring them next week
- its a 633;i have no problems with that even better because i dont like the spoilers, but it shouldve been said so, not 635
Few good bits
- The body is in great condition, few rust spots here and there but nothing serious
- it has more of some parts that it needs, few window motors, mechanisms...
- thats all lol
Now, is it better to sell this one off and hoping that the metal of the next one is good as this one but complete, selling the parts or restore it since its a good base?
Rear right
Rear left
Front left
Front right, has some rust
Floors are good, however i will totaly sand them and reprimer the under
Parts
Can someone help me?
What injection system did its M30B32 originaly have? K-jetronic or early motronic systems? I have an M30B32 from 1984, how hard would it be to convert to k-jetronic?
Do you need a US rear bumper? I have one with side markers and the trim that wraps around
Nope, thanks im making it factory spec.
Did it have 8 or 10 screw differential?
Wow, I get a headache (and a knot in my stomach) just looking at the pictures..... more power to you. You are building an entire car.
'84 Euro 635CSi Polaris/Pacific, for sale (maybe)
Home of the Silver Bimmers: '91 M5, '84 Euro E24, "99 E36, "98 E36, '02 E46 xiT (yes, all silver)
Some progress. Didnt work a lot since i bought a donor and a few more cars for parts.
Attachment 625625Attachment 625626
Wow. Wow wow wow. You are super brave or do not have kids under 25, or a wife, or all of the above. This will take some time. The only benefit of the condition you have the car in is that you get to pick and engine and trans and you are ready, almost, for a complete resto/re-paint, as most of the stripping has been done.
Wishing you the best with it.
1977 633 CSi RHD Euro. S38B38 3.9L M5 Transplant. 5 Speed Getrag Dogleg. 3.73 LSD. 417hp, 369lb/ft
1971 3.0CS E3 2dr Alpina Special Coupe Racer, 347hp, 295lb/ft
Sitrep
Off to painting tomorrow. All the rust is gone now, completly restored subframes with new screws, new bearings...
Now, shout it paint it in its original colour, Turmalimgruen (rare colour on these) or something else since its already stripped?
I would love it in Topazbraun however since it was green should it stay green?
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Did the same and then some. Completely stripped the car totally to a bare shell and then did a color change. When doing a color change like this in this manner, there is no way of the original color ever showing as it was painted top, bottom inside and out. Inner fender panels engine compartment etc. I say stay with the original color unless you absolutely hate it. Personally I think the rare colors are special
Last edited by Bert Poliakoff; 08-19-2018 at 08:29 PM.
81 Euro undergoing total nut and bolt restoration
pictures at: flickr.com/photos/bertsphotos
Nice progress. I vote for which color makes you happy (Braun). It is not numbers matching anymore, so make it yours, but like Bert says, it is extra work.
Last edited by TowJamma; 08-19-2018 at 08:32 PM.
My choice would be an original period correct colour if you don't stick with the original colour, I'm facing the same issue as mine will be repainted next year.
Can I ask you some questions about Croatia? I have a biketour planned for next may (Split to Triest) and advice from a local is always valuable. Thnx!
Love that green!!
Thanks, will do.
This is where im at right now
New bearings, piston rings all screws on the engine
Sandblasted and repainted front and rear subframes, all new bushings, rubbers etc
New brake lines w steel braided flex hoses, calipers restored
Bilstein B6 all around
And loooots and looooots stuff more that i cannot even remember anymore
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so far so good !
+1
Really nice
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