E36 door handle-can't get it out

[M3 Pete]

I've watched the videos and Bentley says you don't need to take the window out. But I can't get the handle past the silver regulator slider. Even if I removed the window I don't think I can remove the slide. I have tried sliding it forward and backward, no dice.


Help!




[EDIT] I figured this out, the silver regulator slider in the first three photos is attached to the window and goes up and down with the window. The window was all the way up, so there was no way to move it out of the way. So you really have no choice but to get the window out of the way, which I did by pulling the window out entirely.


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[bmwdirtracer]

Well, you need the window out to replace the regulator anyway. With the regulator out, and the bottom of the slide unbolted, that handle will wiggle out. Remember that the inside door panel is extremely flexible....that's why everything breaks.....

There are bolts holding the bottom of the window rail upright rails/

[M3 Pete]

I managed to get it out from the outside but only because it was broken. I was hoping to be able to fix this but I need to order a new one. Not sure how I'm going to get it back in.



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[bmwdirtracer]

S.N.A.F.U.

You'll be fine...unbolt the regulator and rail, then replace the door handle carrier, , then replace the regulator which is torn.

[Mless5]

Be sure to buy a new one from the dealer, sounds like you don't want to go there again in case they used one does the same (and it will).

[M3 Pete]

Yeah, I'm resigned to buy the door handle from a dealer for that reason. RM European has it for about $170.

Has anyone ordered one that matches their keys from BMW? Does it have to come from Germany?

[M3 Pete]

Well, you need the window out to replace the regulator anyway. With the regulator out, and the bottom of the slide unbolted, that handle will wiggle out. Remember that the inside door panel is extremely flexible....that's why everything breaks.....

There are bolts holding the bottom of the window rail upright rails/

I don't think that regulator slider is held in by bolts. Otherwise it would show up on the parts diagram.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=51_2055

I took out the vertical guide rail that holds the window (#12 in diagram), but that was not the problem. The horizontal rail that holds the nylon slider for the regulator is what is causing me grief, and it is not shown there. I have not gotten a mirror in there to see what is going on, but I think it is welded or riveted on, and totally inaccessible.

[EDIT] I'm wrong, the silver regulator slider is attached to the bottom of the window and goes up and down with the window. DOH! See the first post for my edits on how I'm going to approach this.

[bmwdirtracer]

The door handle: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=41_1053

(You'll need your registration and driver's license - dealer only part.) It will come from New Jersey.

The bottom of the guide rail (12), is, if I recall correctly, bolted to the bottom of the door, is it not? I was trying to advise on how you can get the handle apparatus in and out; not advising on what's wrong with the window regulator. I understand fully that the white plastic sliding piece (part 2) is not bolted to anything, Nonetheless, for your window issue, you need two of those, and some grease, and a regulator.

Certainly, you'll need a new door handle carrier

[M3 Pete]

The door handle: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=41_1053

(You'll need your registration and driver's license - dealer only part.) It will come from New Jersey.

The bottom of the guide rail (12), is, if I recall correctly, bolted to the bottom of the door, is it not? I was trying to advise on how you can get the handle apparatus in and out; not advising on what's wrong with the window regulator. I understand fully that the white plastic sliding piece (part 2) is not bolted to anything, Nonetheless, for your window issue, you need two of those, and some grease, and a regulator.

Is the key-matched door handle 51218199915 or 51218199919 (BMW Individual) or 51218199921 (BMW Motorsport)?

Any decent discount dealers around that I can order a door handle from? Our local one offers nothing.

I think I finally understand what is going on with the horizontal "slider rail" as I call it, which is blocking the door handle. Somehow I didn't get that it goes up and down (because I never watched the window operate with the door card off, my bad). So if I understand correctly, I take the window out, lower the mechanism, and the rail slides down (or simply remove the regulator and the slider rail comes with it?), and the door handle pops right in. Right?

[EDIT] Wrong. The horizontal "rail slider" is attached to the window. Once the window is moved (or taken out) nothing is in the way of the door handle. I was totally confused about how this worked until I got a little farther into it.

Certainly, you'll need a new door handle carrier

what is that? Is it something off this diagram? Despite moving the retention bar all the way forward, I still managed to break both clips off the door handle cover (#1 in the diagram 51218122441 ), so I have to buy one of those (Genuine BMW is $25, but you can get Uro Parts for like $6)
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=41_1061

[bmwdirtracer]

Oops, sorry, that last line was supposed to be deleted, after I looked at the parts diagram. I work on many models of BMWs, and I had X5s on the brain today. No separate carrier for the E36.

The vertical window guide at the rear of the door, I THINK - bolts to the bottom of the door (lie down on the ground, and check me on this -- this time I might just be confusing an E36 with an E36/7 Z3. If tere's a 10mm bolt there, it will be holding the bottom of the vertical window guide rail.

After removing the glass , and putting the mechanism fully down, I think you'll be able to remove the handle mechanism, with a wiggle....but if not, try unbolting the bottom of the vertical rail.

Sorry, it's difficult to remember the exact procedure for each model / variation.

Here's a copy from Alldata, without pictures (sorry). You'll note they say to replace rivets with bolts:

1997 BMW M3 (E36) L6-3152cc 3.2L DOHC (S52)
Vehicle » Body and Frame » Doors, Hood and Trunk » Front Door Window Regulator » Service and Repair

Service and Repair

Removing and Installing/Replacing Power Window Unit In Left or Right Front Door

Note: Whenever battery power is interrupted to window motors, Initialize Windows See: Windows and Glass\Windows\Testing and Inspection\Initialization of Window Regulator

Only sedan/compact/touring:

Removing door window. See: Front Door Window Glass\Service and Repair

Only coupe/convertible:

Clamp door window at top with two wooden wedges.
Release door window glass, do not remove. See: Front Door Window Glass\Service and Repair


Remove screw and remove door opener.


Unscrew screw (2). Grind off rivets (1).

Installation:
Vacuum out borings in front door
Replace milled out rivets with:

M6 X 10 screws
with washer dia. 6.4 mm
and nut.

Tightening torque, 9 Nm
Check function

Note: The following work step ends here: "Removing and installing electric window left in left or right front door"

Replacement only:

Remove flat motor for front electric window lift




(Alldata had useless instructions for the handle unit)



EDIT: You can try getbmwparts.com for the handle mechanism with lock, but I don't know how they handle the registration / license thing, which has become MUCH more strict in the last year.

[M3 Pete]

The bottom vertical rail came out easily, just one bolt like you remembered. It has a "hook" at the top that holds it in place. I sprayed it with silicone before i put it back in. Right now I'm driving the car without an outside door handle, I covered it in black tape shaped like the handle and at first glance it looks normal. I unlock the trunk and then open the door from the back seat.

I found a DIY from FCP Euro on the regulator, it also says use bolts to replace the rivets.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/blog/posts/h...-and-motor-e36

And I found www.bmwdirectparts.com that at least advertises the door handle with the coded lock, but I will call them in the morning. It also has the best price I have found on the regulator. It used to be Husker BMW, now Lincoln BMW, and somebody says bmwdirectparts is the online version of BMW of Lincoln, Nebraska.

[bmwdirtracer]

That's an excellent source, I'm sure. Darin (dworthy) uses another BMW online dealer, which I have seen to offer the very best dealer prices, more than once....I think it's " bmwpartsstore.com ", but maybe he'll check me on that.

[shadowpuck]

Husker/Lincoln is easily one of the most competitive out there price wise. Great folks - I buy parts and have service done there. I've shopped bmw parts pricing for awhile now - hard to go wrong with Husker/Lincoln on pricing.

[M3 Pete]

To order the coded lock, I had to go to a local dealer in person, as they require license and registration. bmwdirectparts and all the local dealers confirmed this.

Shopped around and got prices of $203, $234, and $257. Could have saved about $50 by buying a non-coded lock and transferring the wafers, but just decided to get a lock with all new wafers, since I don't have keyless locking and I've been using it for 20 years. The downside is having to wait for the part to arrive from Tennessee (or somewhere back east). New keys come from somewhere in California, Stockton I think.

I bought everything else from bmwdirectparts.com Compared to most other parts places who offer free shipping above a certain price point, the savings on the regulator more than paid for the shipping.

[bmwdirtracer]

Yeah, it used to be that my shop could send copies of the license and reg to our local dealership, for the owner, and they'd deliver the key / lock with our normal parts orders, but that stopped in the couple of years; now the owner has to go to the dealership in person, with those documents.

You did the right thing, by ordering quality parts.

[dworthy]

That's an excellent source, I'm sure. Darin (dworthy) uses another BMW online dealer, which I have seen to offer the very best dealer prices, more than once....I think it's " bmwpartsstore.com ", but maybe he'll check me on that.

Close Chris, as I use: www.thebmwminipartstore.com

I have found that they are quick to pack, and ship out. I have always had good communications with them, and great prices on shipping.

[M3 Pete]

In searching around, I found a place that is cheaper than any of those. https://www.bmwpartswholesale.com/ It's not tons cheaper, about $7 less for the regulator than bmwdirectparts.com (which I used), but I have no idea how they are for customer support or shipping.

[shadowpuck]

bmw of lincoln/husker has been outstanding after years of orders - and, good service too. over the last few years, there's been several dealers that have entered the internet parts pricing business. prior to that rise, there were only a few.

in the end, its nice to have choices to buy OE parts for many of us with our 20+ year old cars!

[dwvcfii]

My experience with this:

https://www.dvatp.com/bmw/e36/2011-05-30
https://www.dvatp.com/bmw/e36/2011-06-25

Short answer: mark the window carriage appropriately and then remove the two bolts by taking off the exterior door trim. That will allow the window to slide / tilt out of the way.

[M3 Pete]

My experience with this:

https://www.dvatp.com/bmw/e36/2011-05-30
https://www.dvatp.com/bmw/e36/2011-06-25

Short answer: mark the window carriage appropriately and then remove the two bolts by taking off the exterior door trim. That will allow the window to slide / tilt out of the way.

Thanks. The photo is very helpful as I yanked the switches off to try to get the handle out.

[M3 Pete]

In the end, I removed the window. On a sedan, once you unhook the window regulator from the plastic slides, the window just moves free, so it's easy to pivot the rear of the window up and pull it out. You should remove the interior window channel cover and the metal clips first, so you have more room to get the window out and don't scratch the window.

(I think a coupe is different, since it lacks a window frame and uses roller guides in the door)

With the window out, I pulled out most of the weatherstripping and lubed up all the rubber parts with Sil-Glyde silicone grease. I did not pull out the front rail guide from inside the door, since that looks like a nightmare to get back in. For the "fuzzy" parts of the weatherstripping that contact the window edges, I used silicone spray. I did not use anything on the fuzzy surfaces that touch the window faces, because I don't want silicone streaks on the window.

With the window out you can pull out the door latch, lube up the interior with white lithium spray grease, reassemble the latch and the door handle/lock and put the assembly back in. Since it was brand new, I covered the door handle with painter's tape just to protect it from scratching during the install.

When you put the window back in, make sure the edges are in the front and rear window rails (seems obvious, but I forgot the first time and had to pull it out again to do it).

I ran out of time, so I still have to do the regulator. But at least I have a door lock that works!

While I was in there, I found that the round plugs on the door bottom had become very brittle, and broke just by touching them. I ordered a pack of these, which has more then enough to do all four doors. (2 on each door)

Uxcell a15090400ux0561 20pcs Rubber Closed Blind Blanking Hole Wire Cable Grommets 20mm
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1