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Thread: DIY front brakes

  1. #26
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    Grease helps keep the sliders sliding so the brakes work properly and tge pads and rotors wear evenly. It can dry up, leak out, mix with water or debris. Yours are obviously still working, which is good for you, but I consider the grease a service item along with cleaning up the pins, which may just have junk stuck on them or could have surface rust.

  2. #27
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    Maybe it is one of those things like lifetime fluids. I'll continue doing the extra servicing.

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by pshovest View Post
    Ever wonder why the factory doesn't use or recommend it?
    I recall seeing a BMW SI (?) recommending the application of grease to brake guide pins - anyone got access to SIs?



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  4. #29
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    I have read that while most sliding calipers use grease, BMW ones, or at least some of them, do not. Not sure what BMW is doing differently in the sliding mechanism that requires no lubrication. I have cleaned and greased the sliders when I serviced the brakes on my BMWs.

  5. #30
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    On my 5 BMWs in over 20 yrs I never greased my Caliper pins they never squeaked either, problem with greasing these is that grease attracts dirt and can cause calipers to seize instead of slide over the pins AND if the wrong grease is used it will,deteriorate the rubbers of the pin holders, (believe you need to use silicon grease) but I prefer my pins and sliders clean and dry.......
    and btw squeaky brakes are usually caused by not have the silicon on the back of the pads during install.
    ">'85 Mlite E30, '98 E36, 1998 528i, 5 spd manual, black on black, sold in 2012 and still going past 350Kkms, now MYSTIC Blue 2004 545i, 6 spd Steptr., Adaptive steering and Xenons, Anti dazzle mirrors. Aux+Belt-Chime+Dig speedo+iDrive discl. 2007 TCU+BT Coded+Sure BT Board

  6. #31
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    Got the Zimmerman/Ake combo ordered today. I hear FCP has good videos to help with the install. My only great area is with the calipers. Some say pop the top on the reservoir and just use a c clamp to compress them back open. No bleeding necessary... then there is the opposite side of draining and refilling the fluid all together with bleeding

    I will have the parts on the 21/22... thanks again for all the replies toward the decision


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  7. #32
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    Either way you choose to go, watch the level in the reservoir as you compress the piston(s).
    Use a turkey baster to remove excess fluid.


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  8. #33
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    If you're close to two years on the fluid then replace it - but don't drain it empty, too hard to get all the air out.

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Norskie View Post
    If you're close to two years on the fluid then replace it - but don't drain it empty, too hard to get all the air out.
    Hmm that will require bleeding then right? Hmmm this is a one man job and I have not done a bmw before


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  10. #35
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    Yes, it requires bleeding. Two man task unless you have a Motive Pressure Bleeder or similar.


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  11. #36
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    Don’t bleed if you are solo and don’t have a vacuum or a pressure bleeder. You can flush or bleed some other time. There is no need to do it when changing pads and rotors. Just peek in the reservoir as you push the pads back so you can get the caliper off the rotor. There would be an issue only if the reservoir was really full.

  12. #37
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    Nissan Titan, Subaru WRX
    These were easy to replace, just like any other disc brake setup.

    I agree with that the rotor screws are worthless and need to be basically replaced each time they are removed, or anti-siezed the hell out of so they come off the next time.

    R1 Concepts has decent rotors and shop around for pads. I found some good deals on Bav Auto for some brembo pads and 1 brake wear sensor.

    Make sure to bleed the brakes using that SuperDot4 LV fluid or whatever.

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