I'm starting to think my newest edition is a bit older than advertised. Suspension is shot, body and trim in sad shape, transmission shifting hard...now what looks (to me) like an eletrcal nightmare. I know I have a parasitic battery drain so my question is, do i just open my wallet and let the mechanic kick me in the balls while the bills fall out?
What kind of investment in time is this?
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Battery drain would be due to a leaking capacitor. Not a hard fix and shouldn't cost too much, and there should be someone local who can repair it for you.
Shot suspension is also not surprising. I bought my car and replaced the shocks, the old shocks were completely blown. Bushes also in rather average state.
Reset the ECU and see how many of them come back. Some of them could have been from years ago.
Plus, one page is of the same code.
Is there anything wrong with the electrical operation - or is it just a case of being worried by erroneous codes?
Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i
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Chase - Heroes to a generation
...because you didn't mention that you had endless faults with the operation of the car. Windows acting up can be sorted - and, as for excessive current demand in sleep mode: measure it, it might be as simple as having dead batteries!
Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i
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Chase - Heroes to a generation
Yeah, a lot of those codes are typical with dead batteries. IMHO, first steps would be quality trickle charger (I use a Battey Tender) and make sure both batteries get a full charge. This can take a couple of days.
Then test the batteries using Timm’s method. Or just take them to auto parts store and have them load tested.
Then once you are SURE the batteries are good, clear all the codes properly and ensure the alternator is functioning at the right output.
Then see what codes come back. Then we can help identify and prioritize.
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Yes, this is a good approach. Even if the batteries "appear" to be functioning ok, they are often the culprit for numerous erroneous codes. I had an e53 once that started throwing pages of codes even though the vehicle seemed to operate fine. The battery was replaced and codes cleared never to return
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