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Thread: Fuel but no spark

  1. #1
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    Fuel but no spark

    Hey everyone, having a spark issue. engines getting fuel but no spark. Fuel pump is on for sure and injectors are firing because I smell fuel out of the tail pipe plus hear them getting power. EWS is definitely working because I can crank the car and it's Recognizing the key.

    I checked for voltage at the spark plug harness and I'm getting 12v to the coils. And the fuel pump relay is being grounded and turned on. I also took a coil and spark plug out to double check on the no spark, no spark.

    its like the computer isn't firing the spark plugs. Every fuse and relay has been tested twice! With no signs of being blown or bad. Iv taken the DME to BMW and they said they can't test it out side of the car.

    Could it it be something dumb like a bad fuel pump sending unit and the DME thinking there is no fuel in the car? The car doesn't even want to try to start and gives me nothing at all.

    Im about to change the crank sensor because Iv heard that causes no spark. I have a scan tool and got a new code. It's "P1250" which is a
    • Early Fuel Evaporation Heater Circuit

    The car ran fine then wouldn't run at all, I did get some stumbling recently but had no fuel. Pulled over for a sec and it was alright so I continued to the gas station. Ruled it out as no fuel because the pump sounded dry. All my senses are telling me a crankshaft sensor or bad DME

  2. #2
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    Very unlikely to be a bad DME. Start with the crankshaft position sensor. Put an original BMW one or trusted original supplier brand only.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  3. #3
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    Actually got the cheapest one on rock auto 😂🤘🏻

    the wires to the connector look fine but I haven't traced them into that box on the left side of the engine under the intake manifold

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Support528 View Post
    Actually got the cheapest one on rock auto 😂🤘🏻
    Really bad move.
    Now, if you replace it, and the car still doesn't start, you STILL don't know whether the crank sensor is the cause.....so you keep looking elsewhere, spending much more time, and much more money.
    I highly recommend that you return the garbage part, and buy a real one, from a reputable BMW specialist supplier.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  5. #5
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    If could I would. its a magnetic and a sensor, and honestly if it starts I'll go strait to BMW and buy the sensor from there. I just don't have $80 after I re did the whole front end and rear alignment parts plus axles and new rotors.

    Actually just drove this car 3,000 miles strait and it ran perfect. Absolutely love this car and I wouldn't take my girlfriend out to McDonald's for a date if you get what I'm saying.

    Anything els els that could shut off spark? Like everything under the sun

  6. #6
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    What year is the car?

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  7. #7
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    It's a 2000...e39
    M54
    Ms42


    just hit 200,000 miles
    Last edited by Support528; 10-14-2017 at 08:37 PM. Reason: MS43 changed to MS42

  8. #8
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    I just scrolled through this thread

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...l-but-no-spark!!!

    i wasn't getting anywhere near 500 ohms when I tested my crank sensor. Was 35 between signal and power. And 7 between ground and power I don't rember off the top of my head which pins I tested but I know for sure it was no where near 500 ohms.

    I was was actually looking for for 5ohms at the time.

    Its a fluke, id trust it
    Last edited by Support528; 10-05-2017 at 02:45 PM.

  9. #9
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    I sure hope you were testing for ohms with no voltage present,
    If testing a live circuit for resistance-Fluke or no Fluke, that's a recipe for disaster.
    Last edited by MIKYZZ4; 10-05-2017 at 09:09 PM.

  10. #10
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    You're really just spinning your wheels with a cheap aftermarket crank sensor. Some will work sporadically and others not at all. Cam and crank sensors do not always throw a P code from an OBD II scanner.

    I've seen this time and time again in the E38 forum.

  11. #11
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    The harness at the DME, the 6 plugs that plug into the DME. On the first plug the PIN number 7. PIN number 7 gets consent 12 volts from the battery. That consent 12 volt wire I went ahead and grounded (not for s**ts and giggles) The DME is more then likely done. Everything turns on that's attached to the DME besides spark.

    I don't want to make this sound to complicated, one thing at a time. Just for information the I, K, and D bus are no longer on the car. So every bus in that respect. The car ran without everything just perfect and I can communicate with the DME through a OBD port.


    Upon looking at live data on my scan tool the first thing I went to is TPS to see if I have input, i do have input from that sensor and the numbers are respectable towards how much I press the throttle.


    The wire coming from the EWS for the K-bus is not connected, the module will still let me crank the car and the relay closes as soon as I put my key in the ignition.


    I'll be completely honest I cut the whole harness off the car,not engine. Didn't even touch that harness.



    I regret it now, but Iv learned so much.

  12. #12
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    A bit more background info for those trying to help and not knowing what's going on

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...l-(completely)



    Sorry to say, but if you start chopping into harness and delete stuff without exactly knowing what you're doing, then the car won't work just by swapping sensors or bridging wires that don't need to be bridged.

    The stock DME NEEDS the EWS module in place to allow spark.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  13. #13
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    Yeah the EWS is hooked up to the DME. It's one wire that's it

    the EWS clicks on and let's me start the car.

    whats not hooked up to the EWS is the K-Bus. I haven't tried hooking that up because the car started without it. Once I have time again this weekend I'll hook that back up.


    before this whole incident I didn't understand how everything works. Since the car is a 2000 everything is pretty basic.

    Still waiting on the crankshaft sensor to be here so let's try that first

    - - - Updated - - -

    [QUOTE=328 Power 04;29848917]A bit more background info for those trying to help and not knowing what's going on

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...l-(completely)


    Oh....alright :/

  14. #14
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    Yeah, thanks, Abel, but I'm done here. The vehicle needs a new wiring harness, EWS , and DME. No one in their right mind would touch this hacked mess.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  15. #15
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    Thanks, looks like it's time for megasquirt and anti lag.

    - - - Updated - - -

    I'll be starting a thread on the build after I get the car up and running make sure to check it out!

  16. #16
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    Okay, good luck with that. Note that I'm not saying you won't accomplish that, but Jeez, man, WHY? If you were looking to make a 1000 hp turbo motor work, sure, you'd have to re-engineer the world. But a stock wiring harness, and making the DME and EWS work together is not difficult or expensive. Wouldn't it be much easier for you to just use the system, rather then re-engineer it?

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  17. #17
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    I like to make things, that's really what it comes down to. Just creativity that's all.

    hey one last question that came to mind. My flywheel had a bunch of oil on it,so did the cranksensor. Is that transmission oil in there? Is any oil supposed to be in there? I know it's a wet clutch but idk what BMW did. The way it looked to me is the rear main seal is blown.

    (New cranksesnor will be here soon)

  18. #18
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    Dry clutch system. You have a leak. Most likely engine oil.


    I would change the crank sensor and go from there.
    If this is a drift car, I can also just prepare you an EWS delete DME, if this is truly an EWS problem.
    If going for boost and simplicity in tuning (although the MS42 dme is VERY tunable), then aftermarked ECU will be fine.
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  19. #19
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    LOL forgot it was a dry system. I work on dirt bikes to much haha
    Last edited by Support528; 10-11-2017 at 09:41 PM. Reason: New thread check profile

  20. #20
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    Cool No RPM Speed Signal, No Start

    I pulled a coil and plug and tested it, no spark...

    The fuel pump is on, and I smell fuel coming out of the tail pipe after cranking the engine. In the ebox there is no fuse or relay blown.


    When i pull up the live data on my scan tool, I can see engine temp, throttle position, and even spark advance set at 6.

    What I do not see in the live data is RPM when i crank the engine. I cranked the engine for about 5 seconds to make sure the scan tool has time to "buffer". I see nothing at the rpm.

    New Crankshaft sensor should be here on friday, I'm afraid its not going to work.

    What are the other possibilities?

  21. #21
    dworthy's Avatar
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    Well how about a year and model?

    BMW made several different "528i" in many a years.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
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  22. #22
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    Crankshaft position sensor!
    -Abel

    - E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
    - 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
    - 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
    - 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
    - 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
    - 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
    - 2016 Mini Cooper S

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by dworthy View Post
    Well how about a year and model?

    BMW made several different "528i" in many a years.

    2000 528i with the M54

  24. #24
    dworthy's Avatar
    dworthy is offline Wagon meister :) BMW Tech Expert
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328 Power 04 View Post
    Crankshaft position sensor!
    On that car, this would be a good place to start.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
    95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  25. #25
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    Last edited by Mayorchuck; 10-12-2017 at 07:23 PM.

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