the bentley book says to remove auto tranny first. But since engine won't turn how do I unbolt torque converter?
If I remove front of car can I remove engine and tranny together then seperate?
Not sure. You need another 3 liter?
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I always take my front clip off when I take my motor and tranny out. It's a 330i tho
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drop the whole thing out the bottom. Super easy and quick.
Current:
- 09 335i MSport, FBO.
- 98 Euro M3, Estoril Blue
- 04 M3, Carbon Black, 6 Speed Coupe
- 06 M5, Black on Black, Full Leather.
- 73 3.0CS, Tagia Green, 5 speed M30b35 converted
Ex's: 1984 325e, 1988 325IX, 1992 525I, 1995 540i/6, 2002 330i, 2005 330xi, 1992 850i, 2003 330i #1, 2003 330i #2, 2002 330ci, 2004 330ci, 2007 328CI, 2007 335i, 2001 M3, 2006 M5 6 speed
already have another 3 liter from a 2006 x3.
from what I have found I think taking off the front clip/bumper then unbolt subframe and lower subframe and pull eng/tran out the top since I do not have a lift
does that sound right?
hey legoman67,
can i drop it out the bottom without a lift... just using jack stands?
Because of the design of the cradle and the bulk size of the AWD system, it would be vastly more efficient to remove the entire assembly by dropping it out of the bottom rather than completely disassembling all of the individual components and taking it out of the top.
my question is can it be done without a lift?
my question is can it be done without a lift?sorry I did not see asassin34 reply
Last edited by shadetree; 10-04-2017 at 10:54 AM. Reason: mistake
I got some big 10 ton jack stands,
I have the front clip removed today exhaust off and rear drive shaft unhooked
I think I will try and drop everything down the bottom onto floor jacks and then roll it forward, Maybe leave the wheels on to help roll it all out from the car?
Try two of these under the subframe instead of floor jacks. I don't see that being stable. After everything is disconnected/removed and the powertrain/subframe assembly is ready to be removed you could use two floor jacks under the front lift points to lower the car down until the subframe is on the dollies. Then remove the subframe mounting bolts and jack up the body again with the two jacks (hopefully you will have a helper) and roll it out the front. The dollies are rated for 1000lbs each and were cheap at menards. You can easily modify them as needed for supporting the proper areas. You will be better off using the jacks to lift the body and build a platform for the subframe with the dollies. What you are going to do is a lot of work, but I believe that it could be done. Where there is a will, there is a way. Take your time, be safe and good luck. I hope my ideas are helpful.
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thanks for the info/idea, sounds like a good idea.
I was just thinking maybe I can utilize my cherry picker to stabilize the assembly during this process. I have a lot to think about and figure out. I'm thinking about taking off the intake manifold just to give me more access to unhook the wiring harness and stuff I dunno The car has 156k and the replacement eng has 90k.
looks dry no leaks. but was thinking should I replace starter, CCV, rear main seal, intake gaskets, oil filter housing gaskets, oil pan gasket, water pump etc while the engine is out. I appreciate all the input here thank You.
Most of the wiring for the engine/transmission will unplug from the e box. Remove the harness with the powertrain/subframe assembly. It will be easier to disassemble once the whole thing is out. That is how the cars are put together at the factory and it's the most efficient way to take them apart.
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awesome thanks randy
OK got the engine and auto tranny with transfer case out. dropped whole subrame assembly down onto dollys and rolled out front. the eng. #2 connecting rod was busted and hole in block and pan.
The engine I am going to prep to put in has about 90k someting miles and seems
all original.
the car has 156k miles any Ideas things that should be addresed before I install it?
I was thinking oil pan gasket, rear main seal,intake gasket and ccv,new starter.
I dunno everything looks dry and leak free maybe just leave it alone and put it in.
appreciate any input thanks
Vanos and transfer case oil.
In addition to your items.
Plastic coolant pipe under the intake if you are pulling the intake off.
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the replacement engine is from 2006 x3 from Pittsburg PA.
looks pretty nice I was rethinking all this and since the car and tranny have 156k
maybe just do the stuff that is very hard to do once the eng is in the car. hence oil pan gasket since the front drive axle goes thru the oil pan. who knows how long the tranny will last. new starter and oil pan gasket. put it back together all new fluids every where new radiator, expansion tank, I'm new to the e46 this is my friends car she bought it for $800 because blown engine. we don't have any knowledge of the tranny. the engine is on eng stand now so would be easy to work on. but I say get it in the car and drive it like and see how long the tranny lasts. the ccv doesnt look like any build up yet. what kind of maintenance does vanos require?
I completely agree with replacing everything that is not so easy to do with the engine installed. If you plan on keeping the car for a while I'd do as much as possible. Vanos rebuilding is usually just replacing the seals. There are kits available and it's not difficult to do. You will also be replacing the valve cover gasket, but that is a good idea anyway. You should also do the oil filter housing gasket because it will leak eventually anyway and it's cheap. Also clean out the ccv oil return on the dipstick tube while it's out.
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should I bother with the anti-rattle rings on the vanos? or is just the o-ring seal kit ok?
Thanks a bunch dhurley and randy
Just the seals. The anti rattle kit is for vanos that are in very bad shape.
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