Tischer is listing 21-52-1-161-979 as $17, Pelican for $15. I'd check to see if any of them can give you some idea of inventory, or find a better dealer and mail order.
Good Call Blarf! Pelican DID have it for 15, but it still is a non stock item, even though the website says it is in stock. Luckily enough i live close by Pelican so i Will Call'd it.
I added a Rear Main Seal Gasket to the order as i thought it was going to come with the Rea Main Kit i bought. It didnt. However, I didnt realize i actually had the above grommet already attached to the Clutch master Supply Line
Realizing this, i went back to the Real OEM diagram, and the grommet i have and re-bought isnt for the Clutch master to Slave Line. Unfortunately that doesnt even have a part number...
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=21_0150
Oh well. I will reach out to my recent part out plug to see if i can grab it. Speaking of, My Shifter Assembly came in!
I was trying to buy this whole assembly New, but just the Vibration Dampener, Rubber Shifter Base, and dust cover ring in at $175, Vs this one i grabbed for 40$. I figured since i already have the shifter rebuild kit with the teflon/poly bushings, should be good.
Also received the Reverse Light Harness, From the Trans Connector Back!
So that brings us to today. After Will Calling the Rear Main Gasket, I figured i can start moving forward again. So today I replaced the Rear Main & installed the Pilot Bearing. I used a 2" x 3/4" PVC Pipe & cap for the Installation tool on the Pilot Bearing (also with my trusty mallet). The PVC assembly cost all of 65 cents at home depot, and had the perfect diameter.
But of course, i wasnt trouble free. i actually over torqued the 89 INCH POUNDS for the M6 screws to the crank case and Sheared TWO Rear main bolts. Luckily was able to get some vice grips on there and get those out and get everything bolted in.
Tomorrow I need to get a hair cut & my Wife and i are Seeing Infinity War at 3:20, I also have to go to a friends Show at 7 so somehow im going to try and squeeze out the Clutch / Flywheel / Pressure plate install. Sunday I want to Dive into the Wiring for the Starter Relay, So that When I go to pick up my Trans On Monday, I can that Sucker Mounted & Mount my Pedals and Route the Clutch Lines.
Lost a few days last week, Took a break from Car stuff and went to Page Arizona. Visited Lone Rock, Horse-shoe Bend, & Antelope Canyon. Was a nice Vacay but glad to be back & wrenchin'
Last edited by Thrifty S50; 05-05-2018 at 03:28 AM.
Clutch Kit Mounted!
Small, uneventful Update. Ive been crazy busy. I was accepted to College (cal Poly Pomona Biology Degree, if your curious), Going to Portland next weekend, and having drive shaft issues, all slowing me down a bit.
The Manual Drive Shaft Rear CV joint was in such bad condition that it would NOT move like it should, only with the force of a hammer would it move into a new position. My solution was to put the Auto rear half shaft on the Manual, forward Shaft. I measured them out and took note of the alignment (Rear half shafts both measured in the same in length & Diameter), but unfortunately the splines joining the Forward & Rear shaft were not the same. The Auto had smaller teeth, opposed to the Manual shaft had a more aggressive deeper spline.
Manual shaft on left, auto on Right
So now I am weighing my options of A) Buying a new rear CV for the manual (but they are like $200 +) or seeking out a new (used) Drive shaft. I will proooobably just buy a new CV Joint, as everything else has been purchased new, but i cant help but to feel im being shafted!
In other news, I rebuilt the Shifter Assembly. Cant. Wait. to. SHIFT!
ECS Teflon Bushings
Turner Poly Arm Bushing
In other, other news. cant find anyone to help with the Coding. I MAY have to do it myself (dammit). I have been unable to confirm the need to bypass the starter relay (as described in GG's V8 trans swap thread) in any other I6 M52TU trans swap thread (E46, & E39 Alike dont mention any other wiring than the Clutch Switch). Additionally, i was not able to get the Grommet from Clutch Master to Clutch Slave from my recent part out, it was completely deteriorated. I will most likely use 1 of 2, of the grommets for teh Clutch Supply line, with some slight modification.
Just keepin yall up 2 date.
Last edited by Thrifty S50; 05-17-2018 at 07:09 PM.
Small Information Update
Was trying to tackle the Starter relay bypass, while waiting for my trans to be done (new seals). But for the life of me i could not find any info on it in regards to an i6 Manual Swap. Today ive been able to confirm (somewhat) that this step is only needed for V8's (E39 & E38 alike).
References:
While Digging through the WDS for the i6 Starter Relay Location / Diagram, I begin to notice that I can only Pull information on the Starter relay for the M62 motor *Note no info for a starter relay for the m52 motors)
Noticing this, I click on the actual relay / connector for some more info, and yet again get a confirmation that this relay is only related to the M62 motor.
Still not convinced, I decide to just locate it on my car as perhaps the WDS is missing info (or sumtin') But to my surprise, Its NOT there!
Based on the location shown on the WDS, it should totally be visible from behind the Glove Box (or from under once removing the lower dash panel) just above the Black connector / plug. I checked for about 15 min and there isnt a single BMW Green Relay under there. Having read every page of GG's swap thread, i remember that a pre-facelift 540i (madhakish) could not locate this relay behind the glove box as well. He eventually tracked it down to the ebox
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...g-Coding/page5
Thinking i could have been in the same boat (pre facelift E39) i check my Ebox, annnnnd, Nope! Not there
So with all of that ive accepted that this is not something us i6 folk need to deal with (sorry V8 chaps). I cannot find the exact thread, but Member "jdjg" has stated in a few different swap threads that no other wiring was needed other than the clutch switch (which can be coded out) on his i6 E39 running MS42. I guess i can sigh in relief.
Anyways, I downloaded Mikes Easy BMW Tool pack, and my K+DCAN Cable is on the way (should be here monday). I found out i have EWSIII which is located right next to the steering column. If I cannot locate the option to code out the Clutch Lock, wiring it in wont be too hard as the EWS is RIGHT there. Right now i dont understand anything on these programs, although i have watched a few videos, its a bit much to try and dive right into.
Anyways, got my trans back today! Looks brand new!
Tomorrow id like to complete the mechanical aspect of the swap (mount tranny, run Clutch Slave / master lines, Mount Pedals & Shifter). Still need to purchase a new rear CV for my drive shaft, But i can at least get it together and attempt to start her before that comes in
Happy this swap is somewhat coming to an end.
Last edited by Thrifty S50; 06-01-2018 at 09:34 AM.
Making progress on a project feel sooo good.
Brass Pivot Point & Throw out Guide Tube
Clutch Fork & Throw out Bearing Mounted
New Shifter Rod Joint
Last peak at the Clutch Set up Before Trans gets mounted. I really like seeing the Pilot Bearing through the Clutch Splines
BOOM, Muscled this in there by myself on a Floor Jack. (Not fun).
UUC Poly Trans Support Bushings
Shifter Assembly
Manual Pedals, Set up
Clutch Master to Clutch Slave Line
and out through the Firewall to the Clutch Slave
Clutch Master Supply from Brake Res
Temporary Clutch Stop. Carpet for this section literally popped out. Also, There was already a grommet in the Fire wall covering the access for the Clutch Master to Clutch Slave Line. I just cut a hole in that and re-used it.
Starting to look like a manual car
Filled the Trans with ATF, Bled the clutch; Has Great pedal pressure! No Leaks, Success!
I reaaaaally wanted to try and connect the battery and flip the Key, just to see what happened. (Should i have?) But i want to try and clear out the Clutch Lock before.
Quick questions as I have been tinkering with NCS Expert, Winkpf, NCS Dummy, & BMW Coding Tool, since receiving my Cable.
Do i need to have the car with power and in Position 2 for flashing, or the process to code out the clutch lock? I was hoping to just hook the car up to a jumper since its been off for 2 months, and have it in position 2.
Is the options change i need to do for the Clutch Start a "Flash" or just like a quick re-write?
I dont want to brick my dme by not having power during a flash. I would need to buy a battery charger or something if I cant run it off the battery / jumper.
I've found in NCS DUMMY the clutch lock out option for EWS 3 (not plugged Into my car, just clicking through menus) and where it says active and not active.
How does where I found it in NCS dummy correlate or work with NCSExpert, winkpf, or bmw code tool?
My understanding is that I need to rewrite the string within the ews module to read not active, but does NSC dummy do that through proxy of NCS Expert?
I've also ready that I can do it completely in winkpf, but I haven't been able to find much within the program to determine so...
Is it an issue if I hook car up to power so i can plug it into the computer and kind of peak around, like without having the coding done?
Thanks!
Last edited by Thrifty S50; 06-13-2018 at 12:28 AM.
First Coding Sesh unsuccessful. I dont think the car could communicate with the computer or couldn't contact DME.
INPA recognized that a cable was connected, and i set up the DCAN cable per the instructions (port 1, latency 1, Blah Blah) But every time i tried to perform a function i would be met with an error. Same with NCS.
Below are the multitude of errors i received. The Light on the DCAN Cable came on so a bit confused. And Frustrated.
Tried again this morning to no avail. Actually working with a coder on this. We tried bridging 7 & 8 at obd connector but nothing was working (not sure what that does). Seems to be software related but I'm completely lost.
Going to try a new dcan cable, *sigh* but I'm open to all suggestions. I feel like connecting should be the easy part...
Currently using a K+DCAN cable, 20 pin adapter. Cable is recognized by inpa but cannot communicate with programs / car.
Keep up the good work! Can't wait to see this completed.
**Side note, do you have a list of all the bushings/mounts/etc. that you have replaced as a refresh or as an upgrade throughout the process?
By any chance can you communicate with the DME but not the other computers? I had an issue like this, wound up not being the cable but a broken junction under the carpet.
What about OBD2 dongles? Do they work? If so then it's a cable or config issue, otherwise you're missing something else like a ground or a fuse.
Thanks man, I think that makes 2 of us! As far as bushings go, the only ones the swap really allow you to replace are the Trans Mounts, & the Shifter Bushings.
No, When we were trying to connect to EWS & Cluster Neither would connect? Hmmm. are you referring to that Ground junction On the Drivers side?
You know what, that ran through my mind today too. Unfortunately i hooked up my OBD Code reader and got "Error", when then double checked against my E36, the OBD reader was working. would that be conclusive of a ground or Fuse somewhere?
Im not sure what the Ground would be, and i checked the Fuses in the glove box & at the battery compartment & All appear to be good. Electronically, the only thing i disconnected were the Auto Trans Connectors, Auto Trans Computer Connector, The Door Chime, HVAC & Ash tray bulb connector; All done with battery disconnected. For kicks i connected the Auto trans Computer Connector back in & my OBD Reader still received "error".
The First time the car was powered since the swap was just the other day on our 1st coding attempt. Dash & Radio power up & work fine along with Lock / unlock from the Key fob.
I received a new DCAN Cable, I will try and set up later today & try & Connect to my E36. The other cable did NOT work with my E36 either (same Faults) although my OBD scanner DID. The New cable has a switch on it? Really kicking myself as i feel this is something obvious but i just cant put my thumb on it. Thoughts?
Last edited by Thrifty S50; 06-21-2018 at 12:46 AM.
Major Progress Made. Traced a ground / Short to the Radio. Fixed that and car instantly connected to my OBD reader. All codes read as Auto Trans related so i figured we got DME Communication back we would try coding again. All went Smooth, took maybe 30 min. Had a new cable this time so not sure if the last one contributed to the fail.
Coded out the Clutch Safety Switch in the EWS by changing the option to "nicht_aktiv", No starter relay wiring or Bypass.
Car started right up!
No codes, and no more PRND12. Now to stitch her all back together I received my the new CV joint for the Drive Shaft so once that goes on i can get the wheels to turn.
Thank you Ez!! I really have to give a HUGE Thanks to Kassel Performance https://www.kasselperformance.com/product-category/e39/
The guy stuck with me through the Short I had, And once we were able to tune was done QUICK. It honestly was effortless, which is what i was hoping for from the Beginning. That, and he only Charges 85$ for the Remote coding! Way cheaper than trying to learn it myself, bricking my DME & having to source another one lmao
Anyways, Kept on truckin' today. Today was all about The Drive Shaft. Pulled My Old CSB
& with the New One
Then Finally Tackled the "Constant Velocity Joint". Old & New
Then "Refurb'd" the Old shaft once all the new bits were on, with a fresh coat of rattle can. Looks Great next to my old Auto Shaft
Congratulations! I have all the parts from donor vehicle in my garage ready to install in my 99 528iT but have been putting it off because of the coding issue and not wanting to spend all that time on my back under the car. May I use you as a resource when I finally tackle the swap?
you're killin' it Thrifty ! helluva job !!
"two wrongs don't make a right...only three lefts do...."
'79 Euro 635csi - gone and regretting it...
'89 gsxr-750 - former traffic knife
'97 528i sedan - holding on strong...(just sold after 16 years of ownership - sad day)
'03 Euro 525it - something about a famous dolphin.....
'06 Mercury Grand Marquis (don't ask....it gets the job done....)
'84 Specialized Allez - full Campagnolo Super Record
'99-ish Cannondale CAAD4
"Stinky" - Kona Stinky Five
'86 528e
2008 E70 X5 3.0
Nice dude great job. I'm thinking of doing the same on my 528it when the auto craps out. Hoping to find a cheap non running 528i on craigslist or something.
1999 528i Touring - Alpine White
Great write-up.. And timely, I am also about to start a manual swap on an '03 530i
Loved all the detail and liked the custom SS braided line.
Can I please ask for a couple of clarifications?
You DID need/use the manual O2 harness (blacknight mentioned) right? - did you source a used one Ebay or something?
How did you handle reverse wiring?
Did you have to run a wire from DME to the Cluster? or was that the issue that only pertains to the V8 cars?
Beside the clutch switch override what other coding was done? I have heard you don't need to reflash DME, Did you code the cluster?
What about the rear diff? Is the (automatic) higher gearing a problem on highway (higher revs) . Maybe the wagon with the manual diff ?
How the heck did you find the short/ground in the radio that caused your problem? Your radio looked all untouched/stock.
Last edited by effduration; 07-22-2018 at 08:19 AM.
If you have the chance, dont think twice. Just do it!
Wassup Bro of course! ok umm so..
1. Yes i did end up Using some of the 02 harness for the reverse (see the harness picture with the Blue Arrow). Technically you should route it through the DME, But I bypassed straight to the Cluster on Pin 4 X11175 (or Pin 25 on X10114 I believe for IKE Cluster). The cluster could not care less if the DME sends the Signal, Or your wire it straight from the Switch. so i went for the easier of the two and went straight to the Cluster, a signal is a signal is a signal (for the most part, were not dealing with square waves or changing frequencies.)
2. You need to code 3 things
A. Cluster (necessary to de-luminate the PRND12, and for Function of Reverse Lights. If you wire up Reverse Lights w/out Coding to Manual Cluster, they will not work. You NEED to code to manual cluster for it to interpret the Signal correctly)
B. EWS (this is where you code out the Clutch Switch, Your EWS Will have to be re-aligned to your Manual Flash/Tune)
C. DME (should be a no brainer but needs to be flashed with a manual tune or else you will have Check Engine Lights Galore and most likely be in Limp Mode)
3. Meh... My particular diff does seem a bit high on the highway (culmination of Sport + auto) but it picks up well around town so im not too bothered. Diff Seems Taller than the 3.15 in my E36. I would say at least 3.38 ish, so definately helps with the "pep in its step". Will probably grab a Spare Diff at some point but not to concerned atm. Currently doing about 3.5k @ 70ish
4. There is a tried and true method for tracing shorts in cars (of which the e39 is barely at the cusp of this application as car generations are far too electrically dependent accurately perform this). But Essentially, Check the Voltage of your car battery w/ a multimeter, I had about 6.5 Volts when car was off (you should have about 12.6ish) so something was draining it. Check your amperage pull with the car off By switching Multi-meter to DC Amps and connect the Positive Lead on the Meter, to the Neg terminal on the battery, then negative on the Meter to the negative on the Negative terminal on the Chassis harness. I had about 6 amp load so definitely had something going on. You want to now go to your fuses and Pull them individually until you see that amperage pull Drop as close to Zero as possible. For me, that Figure dropped when i pulled the Radio Fuse, and since a simple fuse change did not do the trick, that tells you that you have a short somewhere in the respective Circuit. for me it was a simple Ground Contact on my Main Plug to the chassis.
Hope that helps! Feel free to continue to ask questions!
As far as the swap goes, Smogged and registered today! i DID have a hiccup, as when i first was able to drive it i had a CEL for the Dreaded P0600 (failure to communicate to Module) something or other. car basically was thinking "hey, where the heck is my auto transmission?" and Car went into Limp mode, and i couldnt not get the code to clear for nada. I eventually was able to reset adaptation in INPA and that did the trick. My dme now thinks like "oh wait, were a manual now, thats right!"
Its been a little over 100 miles since the swap and im loving it. The Single mass is a bit chattery and loud in High gear - Low Rev situations, But it grabs great even barely broken in. Still need to get my shift knob to complete the swap, using my old E36 knob and its beat.
Last edited by Thrifty S50; 07-24-2018 at 02:52 AM.
Thanks That's a big help...
Your Welcome dude!!
Obligatory Post Swap Interior Shoot:
An extra from todays mini shot
600 Miles on swap so far, and loving it! Car is running phenomenally. the Auto diff is killing me on the Highway, its a 4.10 so great around town but im doing 3500 - 3700 at 65... So i picked up a 2.93. Its a bit rough so ive spent the last few days refreshing (Getting rid of surface Rust, painting, Etc..). Popped off both half shafts and everything looks nice and tidy inside.
I started College this week so im going to try and make time to throw it in there tomorrow... Any one want a 4.10 diff? lol.
Biggest takeaway post swap has got to be on the Singlemass flywheel. Its CHATTERY on idle. Like its not bad driving around, grabs great, and in between stop lights its not really noticeable. BUT. If you are stopped for an extended amount of time it definitely gets to you, considering you press in the clutch and it goes in dead silent. *sigh*. Definitely going back to dual mass my next clutch swap...
Last edited by Thrifty S50; 08-25-2018 at 02:10 PM.
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