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Thread: 99' 528it auto - to - Manual Swap Thread w/ pictures

  1. #1
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    Post 99' 528it auto - to - Manual Swap Thread w/ pictures

    Hello!


    So recently i have been toying with the idea of 5 speed swapping my Newly acquired touring.



    Luckily, My friend and Shop owner, happened to have a full 01' 525i Donor car. We talked about what the swap would really need to work, and we figured it should be doable. So well, we are doing it.

    I recently posted a thread asking what i should look out for, here: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...i-look-out-for

    well that was yesterday, and today we started the First day of work. I wanted to start a deidacted thread just to help anyone else who might want to do the same thing, and figured with the recent photo bucket fiasco, this could prove really useful!

    Anyways, back on track. My friend is a Master tech and owns a shop, so luckily we have the tools for the Job. I arrived today, and my friend already had the Motor Pulled and some major components pulled. What a guy.


    Donor Car Once i Arrived:



    Donor Car once I left:



    I got lucky because it is the LOW style Cluster, So i might still use the Donor one. We got to work quick. Everything im not using for the swap is for sale, so if anyone needs anything let me know. I will set up a panjo thread but feel free to PM me!









    This was pretty sweet, found this velco'd to the rear liner where the Tool Box was



    Tomorrow were going to attack the Front, Get the Seats out and Console. Rip the Pedal Assembly out. So on and so forth.





    There was somethign from my previous thread that i was still looking for insight on, regarding reverse Light Wiring. Blacknight 530i said that i could just run the wire from Cluster to DME and it should work as long as DME is flashed with a manual tune. How does it recieve signal that ive put it into reverse though?

    Anyways, I hope you guys all dig the new thread. I appreciate any tips or tricks. Thanks!

    - Thrifty

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thrifty S50 View Post
    Hello!


    So recently i have been toying with the idea of 5 speed swapping my Newly acquired touring.



    Luckily, My friend and Shop owner, happened to have a full 01' 525i Donor car. We talked about what the swap would really need to work, and we figured it should be doable. So well, we are doing it.

    I recently posted a thread asking what i should look out for, here: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...i-look-out-for

    well that was yesterday, and today we started the First day of work. I wanted to start a deidacted thread just to help anyone else who might want to do the same thing, and figured with the recent photo bucket fiasco, this could prove really useful!

    Anyways, back on track. My friend is a Master tech and owns a shop, so luckily we have the tools for the Job. I arrived today, and my friend already had the Motor Pulled and some major components pulled. What a guy.


    Donor Car Once i Arrived:



    Donor Car once I left:



    I got lucky because it is the LOW style Cluster, So i might still use the Donor one. We got to work quick. Everything im not using for the swap is for sale, so if anyone needs anything let me know. I will set up a panjo thread but feel free to PM me!









    This was pretty sweet, found this velco'd to the rear liner where the Tool Box was



    Tomorrow were going to attack the Front, Get the Seats out and Console. Rip the Pedal Assembly out. So on and so forth.





    There was somethign from my previous thread that i was still looking for insight on, regarding reverse Light Wiring. Blacknight 530i said that i could just run the wire from Cluster to DME and it should work as long as DME is flashed with a manual tune. How does it recieve signal that ive put it into reverse though?

    Anyways, I hope you guys all dig the new thread. I appreciate any tips or tricks. Thanks!

    - Thrifty
    So, for the wiring of the reverse, use the o2 sensor wiring harness from the m54 engine out of the 525i as it will have the auto transmission computer plugs removed and have the connector and wiring for the reverse switch plug on the manual transmission. On that harness, the reverse wiring sends a ground signal to the DME when the shifter is in reverse. Then, the DME sends that same signal out another wire that goes to the cluster. The cluster then takes that signal and translates it to the LCM to turn the reverse lights on through the ibus. You should really get familiar with the wiring diagrams for both year e39s to compare them. I'll look when I get a chance to see if I can find the wiring pin numbers for it.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

    -Paul
    2003 "M5" - Full M5 conversion, AMG C63S 6 piston front calipers, Porsche Panamera 4 piston rear calipers, GC Coilovers,
    Eibach ARBs, UUC Evo3/DSSR, Borla Exhaust w/Muffler Delete, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto, Bi-Xenons, e38 Style 37 M-Pars, e60 Hubs 530i 6-speed swap build thread
    2005 Range Rover 4.6is (M62TU Powered) - 4.6is Engine Swap from X5, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto
    2006 Porsche Cayman S - Soul Performance Competition Headers and Exhaust, H&R Coilovers, 718 Boxster Spyder wheels, Rennline 35mm rear spacers

  3. #3
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    Ahh i see exactly how it comes into play. Thats why i was so confused, i didnt see the connection between that and the LCM, or the DME getting the Reverse Signal originally from the switch on trans, that runs into the 02 Sensor harness right? I see nowwww. Ill be trying to do as much research as i can while at work. Back at it afterwards.

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    Went pretty ham on stripping the rest of the Donor car. Got all the seats out, and subframe + windows. Then just organized everything that i need to sell.



    Taking a break from it tomorrow and jumping back into it saturday.

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    Finished stripping everything else im not going to use. Then pulled the pedal box and brake booster. I dont know why but pulling that one hardline through the firewall was so nerve-racking. I think the only thing i need from the Donor at this point is to figure out the wire that runs from Speedo to DME for reverse lighting.

    I am back to the shop on Tuesday, however i need to finish my Rear-end overhaul on my e36 before i can start tearing the wagon apart. E36 just needs Brakes bled and i need to finish re-barreling my style 42's, so probably start the REAL work on the E39 by the weekend. Not sure if i am more Nervous, or excited for the swap.
    Last edited by Thrifty S50; 10-02-2017 at 03:13 PM.

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    Following this.

  7. #7
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    Small update, been just selling things and doing research. Cut the donor car in half yesterday to make room for the touring, not a sight you get to see everyday.



    Found more specific info for getting the reverse lights wired up, along with additional coding instructions

    "
    • Reverse switch plug to match tranny socket
    • Existing EGS harness wires (do not cut these back until you are sure you do not need to reuse any more lines)
    • New pin for DME connector X60002
    • New pin for DME connector X60004 (see below - may be able to re-use pin from EGS connector)
    • New pin for cluster X10114 "


    Taken from Geargrinders write up of 540i Auto to manual check list. That thing is a gold mine, Thank you geargrinder!

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2070255-E39-540i-Touring-Manual-Conversion-Checklist-amp-Wiring-Coding

    I have new Subframe bushings and 2 out of the Million Rear control arms / bushings needed for a refresh, which i want to do along with this swap since everything will be down, just gathering pieces. I expect to roll the touring on the lift next week and startin to get things going.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thrifty S50 View Post
    I have new Subframe bushings and 2 out of the Million Rear control arms / bushings needed for a refresh, which i want to do along with this swap since everything will be down, just gathering pieces. I expect to roll the touring on the lift next week and startin to get things going.

    I still have most of the suspension stuff for sale if you’re interested

    2002 M3 Journal

  9. #9
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    Text me dawg, i think its time i take them off your hands!

  10. #10
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    Gonna be following this. Ive done a swap on an e34. I have an e36 and an e39 in the shop that will be having the same procedure. Im sure they are similar, but with some differences obviously.
    1997 328ic
    1999 528i

  11. #11
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    Well....

    Fast Forward 6 months and I started the Swap today. My friend has not had the Space / Time in his shop realistically for us to pump the swap out the way i had initially had hoped. However, Ive been growing increasingly antsy do to this swap (especially as my Auto trans has been acting up and getting worse); So Friday went and grabbed the parts we had torn from the Donor 525i from my above posts.

    Coincidentally had my E36 wheels as i was getting new tires (E36 going back to Daily Duty for the duration of the swap). Gotta love all that usable space



    Unfortunately it had been so long since we pulled the parts, a number of things went missing; Primarily the Hardware. Hopefully i can use most of my current hardware. So after going through everything and really getting my list together of what i want/need to purchase, I started to clear the way to everything i will be need to access for the swap. I began by pulling my Driver Seat, Lower Dash Panel and Center Console. This gives me access to the shifter assembly and pedal brackets. Then moving on to the Engine bay i removed the Cabin Filters to gain access to the DME/EGS Compartment, and The dwelling for the Booster/Master Cylinder and Reservoir .

    Luckily, being a touring, everything fits in the back





    After clearing the way to all areas i will need to get to (not under the car) i decided to closer compare what was existing on my 528i Auto, and the manual 525i donor in conjunction with some Real OEM Diagrams.



    Moving to the Pedal Bracket, I had read that the Pedal Brackets between auto and Manual should be the same (with mounting points) so id rather just add the Clutch pedal to the existing, and swap the Auto Brake pedal for the skinny manual brake pedal, then rip the entire existing bracket out. I confirmed this by locating where the Clutch pedal will mount to my existing auto bracket.



    I then Moved to the Brake Master and Booster to observe differences. If i dont have to swap anything and can adapt what i already have, perfect. Going over the Real OEM diagrams and comparing in person i draw up some conclusions.

    Part numbers and Fitment sheets from ECS show that there are two Brake Masters in circulation; One from 9/97 up, and another from 9/99 and up. However there does not seem to be a different Master for an auto or manual, or at that, a different one for 525i's, 528i's, 530i's and 540i's. They are all the same, just given the model change from 9/97 and 9/99. Not being able to tell the difference online, i looked at the actual units together being the Donor car Master was from 9/99 up and my car should have the 9/97 up version. My Previous thought for swaps was that you needed all brake/hydro equipment matching to carry out swap (master, booster, slave all from matching from donor car mated to project car) But this is Bunked for 2 reasons.

    ALL E39's use the same Clutch Slave (sans M5) and a facelift Brake Master will NOT mate to a pre-facelift car, OR vis Versa. If you have a 9/97 up car, you cannot use the Brake Master From a 9/99 up car. you Cannot because the 9/99 Model Master has a hardline tapped into the left hand side that simply is 1. Not even plumbed into the 9/97 Brake Masters , and 2. There is no fitting on a 9/97 car to mate up to the 9/99 Hardline.

    This can be seen here:

    This is from top view down, you can see this hard-line coming out from the Brake Master (9/99 up)



    and my existing 9/97 Brake Master, you can see that the Master isnt even tapped for a hard-line fitting there



    This is Backed up by stock photos and year descriptions for each Brake Master



    9/97 Brake Master WITHOUT the Hardline Fitting



    9/99 Brake Master Plumbed for Hardline Fitting



    Longer Story Short for brake Masters, There is No Auto or Manual Brake Master, just those made before 9/99, and those made after. I am not able to confirm what the 9/99 + Fitting goes to as my car again doesnt even have that system (my car does have DSC, my guess is some change in traction control or ABS). As long as you are in your year range, it doesnt matter what model the Brake Master is from.

    Further More, there is no Auto or Manual Brake Booster. There is a difference in Brake Boosters but is NOT between auto and manual. This is confirmed below:

    Here we have the Donor (2001 525i Manual) Booster With Part Number -057, and my (pre facelift) Auto Booster with part Number -055. These are both old part numbers and have been phased out for the part number -451 (current). You can see the Lucas Designation is the same for both my Donor booster and existing (LCS 145T).



    This is still the designation with the newer -451 Boosters. The thing that changes between the Boosters is the Brake Pedal Clevis that attaches to the Booster. Some come with a U Bracket Clevis, And some come with a plate with a single Hole. There does not seem to be any ryhme or reason on which come with what, as the thread below indicates fellow Forum member all reporting having all part number boosters (-055,057,451) on different models (528i, 530i, etc..) both manual and auto, face lift or pre facelift. Some just got U brackets, some the single plate.

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-Brake-Booster

    If anyone can expand on that, that would be interesting, but, there are no difference between the Boosters across the E39 Range (not M5) as long as you make sure you get one with a matching brake pedal plate.

    Next, there is no difference in Brake Master Reservoirs between auto or manual, or facelift or not. You simply need to uncap the Top hose fitting to run BMW 21521163714 (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...l/21521163714/) to the Clutch Master Cylinder through the Firewall (something i still need to wrap my head around).

    You can see the Manual Donor Reservoir here where the above supply hose was fitted



    And my Auto Reservoir where i simply need to uncap it and add the supply hose

    .

    So for the Clutch Hydraulics, You can use any Brake Master From any E39 (sans m5) as long as you are within your Year Range, you can use any year Booster, just with the matching brake pedal connection, and you can use any year or Model (sans M5) clutch Slave. But you dont really need to swap anything, you can just add the Clutch Supply hose from the Reservoir to the Clutch Master, add a clutch pedal and correct brake pedal, then route the Clutch Master to the Clutch slave.

    With the revelation that i dont need to swap anything, I moved on to clearing things to the trans. I removed the Exhaust, Heat Shields, and All Drive Shaft Bolts, However could not get the Drive shaft to slide away from the Giubo (unbolted from Diff and Center Support Bearing). The Drive shaft on my E36 just slides right back, but it seems there is a a bearing in the giubo keeping it from sliding back far enough. am i dumb?

    Once i drop the Drive Shaft I dont have much to do until parts come in. I orderd a new Clutch Slave, New Clutch master, Rear Main Seal, Clutch Kit, The Clutch Master Supply Hose, CSB and Giubo, Clutch Pivot Pin, Etc... Looking to sort my shifter assembly, and i think that should be it. Am i missing anything? I read something about a pilot bearing?

    I end today with a question hopefully some one can shed light on. How are you routing the Supply Hose from the Brake Master Reservoir to the Clutch master through the Firewall. Down in the well where the booster lives i dont see anywhere through the Firewall where i can route it? Pics please? It is #9 on this real oem Diagram (this is from the Clutch master going UP to the Brake Res) also if anyone can elaborate on where the punch out for #10 to be routed out? Cant seem to locate the plate.



    Also, can i just run a long SS braided line from Clutch Master to Clutch Slave? This would make install much easier through Firewall then making new hardlines or routing the one from the Donor car. Pretty sure racecars just run SS Flex line so why cant I?

    My goal is to get the car running and Driving asap. I will do the coding and take care of CEL's as i can. Before I can get the car running (after all mechanical items) i know i need to Take care of the Starter Lock out which i hope to just code out in the EWS, But not having the programs at my dispense, unless i can find someone to do this FOR me, I may have to wire it in. Would MUCH rather just code it out.

    I also need to bypass the auto start relay, and will be following Gear Grinders method By rewiring X33 Pin 8 Ignistion Switch Wire from the DME and re-route to EWS X1659 pin 2 using the Big Red wire from the Terminal 30 connection previously used at the EWS pin 2.

    I Belive with this, and Pulling the actual EGS i SHOULD be abe to start and drive the car, leaving coding out the CEL's to when i can find time or someone to do it. The MIS42 DME does not need to be re-flashed to start as it Should be able to decide its in manual or auto mode based on it receiving or not receiving a signal back from the EGS as explained here, pretty cool:

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...uestions/page2

    Oh well, back at it tomorrow!
    Last edited by Thrifty S50; 04-09-2018 at 10:29 AM.

  12. #12
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    So here is a list of everything i will be receiving in the next week or so.

    Clutch / Hydro Related:
    BMW # 21526773670 Clutch Master Cylinder
    BMW # 21521163714 Clutch Master Supply Hose
    BMW # 21526775924 Clutch Slave
    ECS Brass Clutch Pivot Pin
    BMW # 21517570284 Spring Clip for Pivot Pin

    Trans Related:
    UUC poly Black Trans Mounts
    the ECS Complete Transmission Gasket Set (Input/Output/ Ball Sleeve Seal/ Caps for internal Lock Pins)

    Shifter:
    BMW #25117546373 e60 Short Shifter (lever)
    Shifter Rebuild Kit by ECS #251 ( Turner Poly Shift Arm Bushing/ Teflon Shifter Bushings/ + some OEM Bits)
    BMW # 25111222724 Shifter Arm
    BMW #23411466134 Dowl Pin (1)
    BMW #25111222754 Shifter Base
    BMW #25111434181 Rubber Dust Cover
    BMW #25111434028 Vibration Absober
    BMW # 25111222451 Lock Ring (1)
    BMW # 25111434194 Shifter Rod Coupler Bushing
    BMW #25117507695 Shifter Bushing

    The Above Covers Everything you need for the Shifter Assembly (except the Selector Rod, Will re-use from donor car).

    Things i Still Need:

    Clutch Line From Master to Slave (waiting on input if SS flex line will do, might be the guinea pig)

    Clutch Kit - Thinking of going Grip Force FX Stage 1 Clutch Kit with Chromoly Flywheel (single mass i believe). Looking at the existing, i dont want to really re-use any of it. Supposedly they use OE Throwout and Pilot Bearing (comes with Pilot and Throwout) and the Friction pad is organic. Any personal experiences with Grip Force? I was going to go Valeo Single Mass upgrade but not sure... My Budget for everything is about 700 so Clutch kit weighs heavy on that total.

    https://gripforce.com/fx-stage-1-clu...9-z3-2-8l-m52/

    Rear Main Seal - I was going to order it, But online there are 2 variants of which i guess my car could have had (3/99 528i) So i will just wait to see which one i pull off of my car.

    Shift Knob - This will be the one i throw in, So Stoked. Its expensive but i think it will really pull the interior together (i like the wood grain )

    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...SABEgIvw_D_BwE

    Todays Goals are to Drop the Driveshaft, and Asses what i need (in relation to tools), to drop trans. Not sure i have the Extensions to reach the top but i will give it a go, and if i can drop it I will.
    Last edited by Thrifty S50; 04-09-2018 at 01:56 PM.

  13. #13
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    Well, Yesterday Got the Driveshaft out, Just had to smack it on the CV joint to get it to separate. That gave me enough room to Pull it backwards away from the trans.

    (Side Note: I think the E39 exhaust is the longest 1 pc exhaust ive ever seen, i plan on modding it before it goes in...)



    Finished Pulling the Auto Gear Selector assembly, and popped out the Padding for the Manual Shifter. Located the Bracket under all the padding (under the Car) for the Shifter Arm Bushing. Pretty Cool these are all the same shells.



    Went Back under the Car and Began Trans Removal. Unplugged all plugs. Drained Trans (wow was it low), Disconnected the Sway-bar at the Links and pivoted up and out of the way. Disconnected the Trans Oil Cooler Lines from Trans, Cant wait to delete the rest. Then removed Brace and Began attacking those E-Torx bolts on the Bellhousing. I got all of them out relatively easy on the Right hand side (e10, e12, e14 x2) with the help of about 24" of extensions for the top right Bolt.



    I started to lose light and so i Bolted the Trans Brace back up and will get to the other side tomorrow. I believe i have another 4 on the left hand side (that include the starter bolts?).

    While Packing everything up i decided to just start and peel back the carpet behind the pedals to try and locate the Clutch line Punch outs. I didnt find it (yet) but i did find where i can thread in my Clutch Stop (or Elevator Bolt...)



    Tomorrows Goal is to Complete the Trans Drop. I am a bit confused on the TC removal as the Bently says there is a access port on the left hand side of the Bellhousing, But i couldnt find it. I found a thread where someone said you have to remove starter to gain access to TC for removal? Can someone Confirm?

    Also will touch back at the pedals, Most likely Drop the complete bracket as i think i have to, to locate punches.

    Excited.
    Last edited by Thrifty S50; 04-11-2018 at 12:56 AM.

  14. #14
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    Okay so For the Torque Converter Access Port It is on the Passenger Side Right Next to where the Headers run down by the Trans. Everywhere online said the TC bolts were 13mm, but mine were 16mm. Using a Wrench on the Crank Pulley (to hold things Still) those popped off pretty easily. See Below For locations





    Once you Unbolt one, rotate the Crank until you have another one in sight. There are 3. Additinoally, Directly to the Left of the TC port, There is a 10mm Bolt, Make sure you unscrew it now. It holds the Metal Gasket that seats between the trans and Motor. With those out of the way i went back and attacked the other side of the Bell housing. The Bolt Layout Goes as Followed:



    This is how you Will View it when under the Car looking at the Bellhousing Bolts, so you can follow and feel around and you'll get it. I Used about 3 ft worth of extensions for that top E14, and other than being really uncomfortable, it wasnt too bad. Make sure you Double Check the E-Torx Bits are completely Seated onto the Bolts, Dont want to shear anything this late in the game! Take your time and Eventually...

    sheeesssss outtaaaaa therrrrrrrre!!!!!!!!!!



    I guess this puts me a little under 1/2 way through my swap! I still have to Pull the Pedal Bracket and punch out for my clutch Master/Slave Lines. Probably do that tomorrow but im running to a friends to grab a Pin Tool for some of the Wiring. I expect to start that this weekend. After that, Just waiting on the parts I ordered, and I get to Put it all back together!
    Last edited by Thrifty S50; 04-12-2018 at 01:46 AM.

  15. #15
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    Hey,

    Does anyone know how to access BMW PLanet for the Wire Diagrams? I cant seem to get it to work, and have read a few old threads about JAVA security but it doesnt seem to work. On my work Computer, and Home Laptop. Havent tried my Imac But what Gives?

    Ill be grabbing the Pin tool from my friends Shop in prep for some wiring, And I was hoping to look over the WDS's prior. Also hoping to snag the 02 harness per Black nights description of running the reverse Lights.

    http://www.bmw-planet.net/diagrams/r...9new/index.htm

    BMW E39 WDS.png
    Last edited by Thrifty S50; 04-12-2018 at 05:30 PM.

  16. #16
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    Still Looking For insight on the Above.

    I grabbed the 02 harness from the Donor car, But yeah. When i went over we crakced open some 805's so i forgot to grab the Pinning Tool. Going back tomorrow.

    Received Shipping Confirmations for my swap parts though which make me a happy camper. Still need a few odds and ends but this was the thick of it.




  17. #17
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    Wow, good work so far! I did this swap about 4 times on different e36's back in the day. My old one being the guinea pig taking 2 weeks for the swap, each swap taking less time until the last one I did in one day... Good days.

    Anyway, this may definitely spark my interest for the wagon I just picked up.. But not for another couple years at least for now haha..

    Sorry I cant chime in on the above questions! Good luck!
    1994 325is (2006-2010) -- 1989 325i M50 Swap (2011 - 2014) -- 2001 525iT (2018 -Current)

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmybimmer View Post
    Wow, good work so far! I did this swap about 4 times on different e36's back in the day. My old one being the guinea pig taking 2 weeks for the swap, each swap taking less time until the last one I did in one day... Good days.

    Anyway, this may definitely spark my interest for the wagon I just picked up.. But not for another couple years at least for now haha..

    Sorry I cant chime in on the above questions! Good luck!
    Thank you! I am really trying to get this done both as fast as possible, and as efficient as possible. There are things now that i know i could do faster since i wouldn't be "guinea pigging". Being my First trans Swap, It really isnt too hard. Just alot of moving parts you gotta stay on top of.

    So hopping back on my question above, Through Some Internet trickery, I stumbled apon this:



    Now i know Our cars had IKE Clusters, But im Not sure that mine Does. It has the Pictogram of the Car, rather than the LCD display I just have to double check the Connector on the Cluster End in the diagram matches Mine. I hope it does.

    Blacknight, Can you expand a little on your comment above? The Wire Diagram backs up how you stated the Reverse signal travels up stream to LCM, But Getting Hung up on this:

    Quote Originally Posted by blackknight530i View Post
    So, for the wiring of the reverse, use the o2 sensor wiring harness from the m54 engine out of the 525i as it will have the auto transmission computer plugs removed and have the connector and wiring for the reverse switch plug on the manual transmission.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Ive Pulled the harness from the Donor Car, But am Having a difficult locating the Reverse connector X5811 on the 02 Sensor harness, can you help me locate it? Unfortunately the Site i found that Diagram on didnt allow me to click the connectors and see the layout or pin diagram, as it was only THAT picture...

    Here is the Real OEM Diagram of the Harness. Unfortunately REAL OEM shows Both the Manual & Auto harness as the same. Should i just look for the GR/VR wire the Diagram calls out running to X60002 connector? Are you perhaps able to point me in the Direction of the X60002 Connector based on this?



    Any clarification, or links to some working Diagrams would be much appreciated! Im at work so just trying to iron out some wrinkles so i can get home and get straight back to the swap.
    Last edited by Thrifty S50; 04-16-2018 at 11:01 AM.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    So~Cal
    Posts
    1,228
    My Cars
    2003 E46 M3 / E30 Vert
    So havent had much time to do anything since ive been waiting on parts, But yesterday I swapped the Manual Pedal Assembly over to my Auto Bracket. Would have been easier to just remove the Accelerator Pin to the Manual Bracket but that sucker would not Budge!


    Here is the manual Bracket; Note the Non Existent accelerator Pin (Top Arrow) , Skinny Brake Pedal and the, Well, Clutch Pedal.



    Here is the Auto Bracket I pulled from My Car; Note the Fat Brake Pedal, Accelerator Pin (Top Right Arrow), and Rusty Clutch Pedal Pin (Upper Left Arrow)



    This is the Best angle i could grab for this Side By Side, and if look close, you can see the brackets are the exact same. Pre facelift Auto Bracket left, Post Face lift Manual Bracket, Right.



    Swap over associated Grommets, Springs, Clips & pedals over to the bracket you will be using to configure your manual pedal assembly. Here you will see elements of both, On Both. Original Auto Bracket on Left, Donor Manual Bracket on the right. If your Clutch pedal pin was as rusty as mine, use a dremmel to get that sucker clean before swapping clutch pedal on.



    And so Today i got majority of what I need; Clutch Kit, Clutch Master & Slave, Clutch Supply Hose, Turner Poly Shift arm Bushing, Teflon Shifter Bushings (White), Rear Main Seal, UUC Poly Trans Mounts, Throw Out Bearing, ECS Brass Pivot Pin, and a bunch of small assorted shifter items. I decided to go with the Valeo Single Mass Flywheel & Non Self Adjusting Clutch Kit, From a Price Point (472$) for an entirely new clutch kit (Flywheel & Hardware Included) really cant beat it. Ill report back on the Single Mass Flywheel, But seeing as how Valeo is one of a few OE Clutch suppliers for BMW, I figured it was also a good choice in regards to quality.



    One thing that kind pissed me off is that, Okay, So for the most part i went with OEM Parts, which are usually a little extra. But (only to strengthen my point about the Clutch) some of the OEM items i ordered, and paid that little extra for, Turned out to be from other MFG's. Had i Just ordered the part as advertised from THAT manufacturer, i would have been able to save a few $$$. Case & point is the Clutch Slave.

    I sprung for the OEM Clutch Slave, But when it showed up (in OEM BMW Packaging) the Actual Slave had FTE printed on it. LOL. I look back on ECS and wouldnt ya know, Had i Just bought the FTE Slave, i could have saved 30-ish bucks. Oh well, you live and you learn. Luckily i sprung for the FTE Clutch Master, which rang in at about 60, as compared to OEM BMW's 180$.

    Here is a screen grab from ECS Showing the Cost Diff on the Clutch Slave (which are exactly the same part)



    Unfortunately, My Pilot Bearing & Throw out Guide Tube (plus Giubo & CSB) dont show up until the 5/24, so i will have to wait a few more days before i can get anything REAL done. I Dropped off the Getrag Manual Trans at my Buddies shop so he can give it some love with the Trans Gasket / Seal Kit I bought (input/Output Shaft Seal, Ball Sleeve Seal & Caps for the Interlocking Pins). Hoping to Pick that up when i recieve my Pilot bearing & TO Guide Tube so i can get the trans in & Clutch Lines hooked up.

    I grabbed the Flywheel Locking Tool & ECU pin tool kit when i dropped off the trans, & Saturday im going over to a local Hydraulic Store to see if i can get a Custom SS Flex line made for the Clutch Master - To Clutch Slave Line. ill be bringing both Master & Slave By so they can check the Fittings. Everything should be lining up nicely for me to really get it together by May.

    Reverse light Wiring Takes a back seat until I can sort that out. I have a trick up my sleeve so we will see how that pans out. Going to contact someone in San Diego about Coding, hopefully he can help me out. Does anyone know of any forum members i could possibly send the ECU to, for some of the coding things, Just incase that guy cant help me?
    Last edited by Thrifty S50; 04-19-2018 at 11:11 PM.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bay Area, California
    Posts
    1,305
    My Cars
    325iT, 540iT
    If memory serves there are two slave cylinders. Early (96-97 build) got one style, everything later got another. For the reverse light I'm blanking but I had to run one wire from the DME to the cluster I believe and then it all worked (including auto-tilt) after coding the cluster as a manual.

    For the wiring diagrams I hacked this up quickly (works best on a desktop):

    http://iho-bmw.s3-website-us-west-2....ws.com/e39old/

    http://iho-bmw.s3-website-us-west-2....ws.com/e39new/

    Someone else went and made an Android app (search the forums for it).

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    So~Cal
    Posts
    1,228
    My Cars
    2003 E46 M3 / E30 Vert
    Thanks for that Feedback Blarf! Luckily Both my Touring and the Donor are > 97, so those variations didnt apply to my swap.

    THANK YOU for compiling those, Ill check for the android app now. Anything i should know about the New v Old Files?

    I reached out to 3 coders here in So Cal, All unable to help so far. Im just asking for A Single option Change in the EWS to code out the Starter lock out switch (to get car running, dont want to hard wire), as well as flashing for Manual trans to clear any CEL's from swap.

    Fourth Coder was someone, one of the previous guys recommended. Not sure if any one has heard of Alex Alpine? Sent him an email with an outline of what id need. Hopefully he can help.

    https://www.alpinemss.com/product_p/rme.htm

    I appreciate any and all input fro you gents. If anyone knows of any coders through the grape vine that can Remotely code, please let me know.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bay Area, California
    Posts
    1,305
    My Cars
    325iT, 540iT
    New vs old is facelift vs pre-facelift I believe. For coding I'd just do it myself, the 540/6 swap thread has a good overview of the different options. Since you've got a 528 you can probably just set the ZCS and recode everything with NCS Expert.
    Last edited by blarf; 04-20-2018 at 04:19 PM.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    So~Cal
    Posts
    1,228
    My Cars
    2003 E46 M3 / E30 Vert
    Small Victory Today. Got a Braided SS Custom Made today to replace the Factory Clutch Master to Slave hard-line / Soft-line Configuration. Visited about 3 different Hydraulic Shops, Before I was Finally referred to an Aircraft Parts Store. They were able to make it on the Spot in 5 Min for 19$. I even got to choose what Color I wanted the Line to Be; I went with "Smoke".

    OEM Configuration:




    New Braided SS Configuration:


  24. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    9,266
    My Cars
    03 M5/05 RR/06 Cayman S
    Quote Originally Posted by Thrifty S50 View Post
    Small Victory Today. Got a Braided SS Custom Made today to replace the Factory Clutch Master to Slave hard-line / Soft-line Configuration. Visited about 3 different Hydraulic Shops, Before I was Finally referred to an Aircraft Parts Store. They were able to make it on the Spot in 5 Min for 19$. I even got to choose what Color I wanted the Line to Be; I went with "Smoke".

    OEM Configuration:




    New Braided SS Configuration:

    What about the grommet in the floor where the hard line used to come out?

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

    -Paul
    2003 "M5" - Full M5 conversion, AMG C63S 6 piston front calipers, Porsche Panamera 4 piston rear calipers, GC Coilovers,
    Eibach ARBs, UUC Evo3/DSSR, Borla Exhaust w/Muffler Delete, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto, Bi-Xenons, e38 Style 37 M-Pars, e60 Hubs 530i 6-speed swap build thread
    2005 Range Rover 4.6is (M62TU Powered) - 4.6is Engine Swap from X5, BMW NBT with Carplay/Android Auto
    2006 Porsche Cayman S - Soul Performance Competition Headers and Exhaust, H&R Coilovers, 718 Boxster Spyder wheels, Rennline 35mm rear spacers

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    So~Cal
    Posts
    1,228
    My Cars
    2003 E46 M3 / E30 Vert
    Yeahhhhh... About That



    Its only available through ECS in Packs of 10, and on Turner its not even available to add to cart. I contacted my Local Dealer and they dont have it in stock and its 40$ to order lol. Ive reached out to a few Part outs hoping to get lucky. I may have to visit the Junkyard or get creative, if i dont find anything. If anyone has one lying around, I would love to take it off your hands (but not for 40$).

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