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Thread: 99' 528it auto - to - Manual Swap Thread w/ pictures

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
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    1,154
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    99 528i/5, 05 ZHP conv
    Great update. I am in the middle of my swap ('01 530i sedan - about to replace rear main seal and put everything back in), and am looking for a 2.93 diff myself. What did you pay for yours? I see $100-$200. Do you have to remove half shafts or will they just fall away as diff is lowered?

    Oh, and did you do anything about the accelerator pedal? They were different auto and manual. I removed mine (auto) and am tearing out the kickdown switch per Blacknight's recommendation.

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bay Area, California
    Posts
    1,305
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    325iT, 540iT
    Yes, single mass flywheels are noisy as hell. Metric Mechanix used to rebuild the five-speed Getrag boxes to eliminate the slop, but I don't think they still do now that Blanton bailed. I actually like the responsiveness of the lighter (steel) flywheel in my 323, but the clutch kit (ClutchMasters FX100) is awful on the street and the whole setup is extremely noisy. IDK about the ZF five speeds, but the Getrags I have in my E46s both wore out the internal shift linkage pretty well.

    I went OEM with the 540 and while it's quite and civilized it seems to grab pretty softly (no CDV).

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    So~Cal
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    2003 E46 M3 / E30 Vert
    Quote Originally Posted by ezrez View Post
    Which conversion kit did use for your clutch?
    I did the Valeo Single Mass Conversion Kit (Single Mass Flywheel, Non-SAC)

    Quote Originally Posted by effduration View Post
    Great update. I am in the middle of my swap ('01 530i sedan - about to replace rear main seal and put everything back in), and am looking for a 2.93 diff myself. What did you pay for yours? I see $100-$200. Do you have to remove half shafts or will they just fall away as diff is lowered?

    Oh, and did you do anything about the accelerator pedal? They were different auto and manual. I removed mine (auto) and am tearing out the kickdown switch per Blacknight's recommendation.
    Hey dude! I paid 140 for mine, probably could have got one for less but i havent seen a 2.93 in awhile so figured beggars cant be choosers. If you are dropping the Diff then yeah, you need to unbolt the Drive shaft, the output shafts to the Axles, and the 3 Diff Bolts. The Output shafts on the Diff pop out easily enough should you need to swap them over from Diff to diff. I may or may not swap them from my current diff as one of the dusts shields kind of scrapes one the Diff (more annoying than anything).

    I did not bother with the Kick down switch on the accelerator pedal. Hasnt made a difference Driving around, even n fully pressed. My guidelines for the swap were only what was critically necessary, although Im sure one day ill be bored get to it.

    Quote Originally Posted by blarf View Post
    Yes, single mass flywheels are noisy as hell. Metric Mechanix used to rebuild the five-speed Getrag boxes to eliminate the slop, but I don't think they still do now that Blanton bailed. I actually like the responsiveness of the lighter (steel) flywheel in my 323, but the clutch kit (ClutchMasters FX100) is awful on the street and the whole setup is extremely noisy. IDK about the ZF five speeds, but the Getrags I have in my E46s both wore out the internal shift linkage pretty well.

    I went OEM with the 540 and while it's quite and civilized it seems to grab pretty softly (no CDV).
    Yeah i will probably switch to OEM next go around, I also have no CDV and SS line (taken out during swap) and it is more grabby then my E36 set up (NO CDV, OEM Dual Mass Set up, SS Line, New Clutch 6k ago, ZF Trans).
    Last edited by Thrifty S50; 08-28-2018 at 02:04 AM.

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    707 CA
    Posts
    2,805
    My Cars
    naggin' wagon
    Congrats on finishing the swap! Very impressive! I get really intimidated with anything code related, so not sure if this is something for me. I am a lot more comfortable working with OBD1 cars since they are a lot less sophisticated and more "mechanical" if you will lol.

    But I hope I can understand the INPA stuff, which will open a new world of car "modifications"

    Good stuff!
    1994 325is (2006-2010) -- 1989 325i M50 Swap (2011 - 2014) -- 2001 525iT (2018 -Current)

  5. #55
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Louisville, KY
    Posts
    4
    My Cars
    2002 BMW 525i for now
    Love the project! I am also doing a manual swap on my 2002 e39 and I would love to know where you found the angled connector (in the 10th picture here) that connects the clutch master to the ss flexline you had made. I can't find that connector anywhere and my clutch master goes straight into the firewall which prevents me from making a straight connection.

    Would also like to know if the aircraft shop was able to provide new fittings for the ends of your new flexline. Thanks!



    Making progress on a project feel sooo good.

    Brass Pivot Point & Throw out Guide Tube



    Clutch Fork & Throw out Bearing Mounted



    New Shifter Rod Joint



    Last peak at the Clutch Set up Before Trans gets mounted. I really like seeing the Pilot Bearing through the Clutch Splines



    BOOM, Muscled this in there by myself on a Floor Jack. (Not fun).



    UUC Poly Trans Support Bushings



    Shifter Assembly





    Manual Pedals, Set up



    Clutch Master to Clutch Slave Line



    and out through the Firewall to the Clutch Slave





    Clutch Master Supply from Brake Res



    Temporary Clutch Stop. Carpet for this section literally popped out. Also, There was already a grommet in the Fire wall covering the access for the Clutch Master to Clutch Slave Line. I just cut a hole in that and re-used it.



    Starting to look like a manual car



    Filled the Trans with ATF, Bled the clutch; Has Great pedal pressure! No Leaks, Success!

    I reaaaaally wanted to try and connect the battery and flip the Key, just to see what happened. (Should i have?) But i want to try and clear out the Clutch Lock before.

    Quick questions as I have been tinkering with NCS Expert, Winkpf, NCS Dummy, & BMW Coding Tool, since receiving my Cable.

    Do i need to have the car with power and in Position 2 for flashing, or the process to code out the clutch lock? I was hoping to just hook the car up to a jumper since its been off for 2 months, and have it in position 2.

    Is the options change i need to do for the Clutch Start a "Flash" or just like a quick re-write?

    I dont want to brick my dme by not having power during a flash. I would need to buy a battery charger or something if I cant run it off the battery / jumper.

    I've found in NCS DUMMY the clutch lock out option for EWS 3 (not plugged Into my car, just clicking through menus) and where it says active and not active.

    How does where I found it in NCS dummy correlate or work with NCSExpert, winkpf, or bmw code tool?

    My understanding is that I need to rewrite the string within the ews module to read not active, but does NSC dummy do that through proxy of NCS Expert?

    I've also ready that I can do it completely in winkpf, but I haven't been able to find much within the program to determine so...

    Is it an issue if I hook car up to power so i can plug it into the computer and kind of peak around, like without having the coding done?

    Thanks![/QUOTE]

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    So~Cal
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    2003 E46 M3 / E30 Vert
    Quote Originally Posted by cmybimmer View Post
    Congrats on finishing the swap! Very impressive! I get really intimidated with anything code related, so not sure if this is something for me. I am a lot more comfortable working with OBD1 cars since they are a lot less sophisticated and more "mechanical" if you will lol.

    But I hope I can understand the INPA stuff, which will open a new world of car "modifications"

    Good stuff!
    Thank you dude! I was in the same boat as you, thats why i went to Kassel for the tuning.

    And MikeJV, You are looking for part number 21521165009, thats the angled piece off the clutch master.

  7. #57
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Louisville, KY
    Posts
    4
    My Cars
    2002 BMW 525i for now
    Quote Originally Posted by Thrifty S50 View Post
    Thank you dude! I was in the same boat as you, thats why i went to Kassel for the tuning.

    And MikeJV, You are looking for part number 21521165009, thats the angled piece off the clutch master.


    Thank you! Exactly what I need.

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    So~Cal
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    2003 E46 M3 / E30 Vert
    Quote Originally Posted by Thrifty S50 View Post
    Major Progress Made. Traced a ground / Short to the Radio. Fixed that and car instantly connected to my OBD reader. All codes read as Auto Trans related so i figured we got DME Communication back we would try coding again. All went Smooth, took maybe 30 min. Had a new cable this time so not sure if the last one contributed to the fail.

    Coded out the Clutch Safety Switch in the EWS by changing the option to "nicht_aktiv", No starter relay wiring or Bypass.

    Car started right up!



    No codes, and no more PRND12. Now to stitch her all back together I received my the new CV joint for the Drive Shaft so once that goes on i can get the wheels to turn.
    Just checking in since it has been roughly 1500 miles since swap!



    Proud to say that car is running amazingly and i have been enjoying it thoroughly. Ive decided to try and join the Forced Induction Club and will be listing the touring for sale to help supplement some funds.

    ( https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lg...731481073.html )

    IF i do get out of the E39 chassis, feel free to still contact me with any questions in regards to the swap, and i would be happy to help!

    - Thrifty

  9. #59
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
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    99 528i/5, 05 ZHP conv
    Thrifty, did you sell this cream puff? I see your ad is no longer up. What kind of interest did you get

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Buffalo / GTA
    Posts
    156
    My Cars
    530i, 535i, 325ic
    Thrifty,
    Thanks to your write up, I went ahead with my swap on my touring. I kept the 4.10 rear end but it's pretty much made the care useless on the highway. Also, cruise control isn't working, not sure if that has to do with the final drive or not.
    Did you end up installing the 2.93? I've heard that the diffs from sedans are different than the tourings. Do you have any insight on this? I was thinking of going 3.46 but not sure if I should be looking for a 2.93 or 2.81. Thanks

  11. #61
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    So~Cal
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    2003 E46 M3 / E30 Vert
    Quote Originally Posted by effduration View Post
    Thrifty, did you sell this cream puff? I see your ad is no longer up. What kind of interest did you get
    Hey Eff! Yeah the wagon was sold about 3 days after posting. I had pretty high interest actually and had second thoughts a few times while selling but the car will be used and enjoyed by someone who will utilize it much more (as a wagon) than myself, so for that I'm happy.

    Quote Originally Posted by ezrez View Post
    Thrifty,
    Thanks to your write up, I went ahead with my swap on my touring. I kept the 4.10 rear end but it's pretty much made the care useless on the highway. Also, cruise control isn't working, not sure if that has to do with the final drive or not.
    Did you end up installing the 2.93? I've heard that the diffs from sedans are different than the tourings. Do you have any insight on this? I was thinking of going 3.46 but not sure if I should be looking for a 2.93 or 2.81. Thanks
    Hi Ez! That's awesome, I'm glad I was able to help your swap be carried out! Ok so for the cruise control you need to wire the clutch switch into the respective EWS terminal (depending on your model should be same as clutch lock terminal). I can dig a bit deeper should you need. I'm assuming you followed me in "coding out" the clutch lock, so the car essentially has no electrical input of when the clutch is disengaged (needed when cruise control is active to cancel CC ).

    For the diff, I also left the 4.10 diff in up to point of sale. I was only driving the wagon in about a 20 square mile radius (square radius?) In LA so I was never going above 65mph. The diff did not bother me much, although I was doing 3700k rpm at about 65mph (always in powerband), so if you have a commute change it!

    The stock manual diff (2.93) would be a dream for long distance driving in comparison. My 5 speed e36 (which shares same motor and driveline combo) does about 3.3k rpm at about 80mph.

    I cant attest to the differentials being different, but the manual diff I had (from a sedan) looked no different from my touring auto diff. Also, the output shafts on the diff pop out super easily should you need to change them to match the diameter of of your axel ( common practice when switching from non M diff to M diff in E36, so keep that in back of mind just incase).
    Last edited by Thrifty S50; 11-25-2018 at 06:25 AM.

  12. #62
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    City of Angels
    Posts
    23
    My Cars
    1995 840ci

    Swap out help

    hey was looking around to do a swap on my wagon and ran across this thread, sorry for bringing it back but you wouldn’t happen to offer a swap price or know of anyone willing to do it the right way. I have a low mileage 528it I wanna swap out.

    pm me! Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by Thrifty S50 View Post
    Hey Eff! Yeah the wagon was sold about 3 days after posting. I had pretty high interest actually and had second thoughts a few times while selling but the car will be used and enjoyed by someone who will utilize it much more (as a wagon) than myself, so for that I'm happy.



    Hi Ez! That's awesome, I'm glad I was able to help your swap be carried out! Ok so for the cruise control you need to wire the clutch switch into the respective EWS terminal (depending on your model should be same as clutch lock terminal). I can dig a bit deeper should you need. I'm assuming you followed me in "coding out" the clutch lock, so the car essentially has no electrical input of when the clutch is disengaged (needed when cruise control is active to cancel CC ).

    For the diff, I also left the 4.10 diff in up to point of sale. I was only driving the wagon in about a 20 square mile radius (square radius?) In LA so I was never going above 65mph. The diff did not bother me much, although I was doing 3700k rpm at about 65mph (always in powerband), so if you have a commute change it!

    The stock manual diff (2.93) would be a dream for long distance driving in comparison. My 5 speed e36 (which shares same motor and driveline combo) does about 3.3k rpm at about 80mph.

    I cant attest to the differentials being different, but the manual diff I had (from a sedan) looked no different from my touring auto diff. Also, the output shafts on the diff pop out super easily should you need to change them to match the diameter of of your axel ( common practice when switching from non M diff to M diff in E36, so keep that in back of mind just incase).

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