Good evening,
I recently purchased a 98 E36 M3 "5 speed" w/ 162k - dakar yellow. Now I'm wondering if any of you experts know how to check if it has been converted to a 5 speed or if it is in fact a true manual. It seems as if I have the 5th gear lean (and I actually have trouble going directly from 2nd to 3rd right away - this is probably already a known issue). The plastic around the shift boot area that houses the window switches and so on, seems kind of loose. When I shift into 5th gear, the lever hits the corner plastic (maybe more than normal). The previous owner mentioned he installed a shorter clutch pedal because he had longs legs. I have attached some pics of the "pedal area" - please let me know if this looks normal to you. Also, th clutch grabs very soon. Before I purchased the vehicle I ran a single record autocheck, however, I didn't see it specifying whether it is an auto or manual. Not sure why they wouldn't say that. I attached a pic of what seems like a bolt under the gas pedal?? Is that normal?
maybe I'm looking into it too much, but any clear signs that you can think of to pin point a swap has taken place would be greatly appreciated.
- - - Updated - - -
Here are the pics...
Last edited by Bisakm6; 09-27-2017 at 11:51 PM. Reason: Add pics
or just use the VIN in realoem.com it will show you immy
http://bmwfans.info/vin/decoder?vin=Ey77677
VIN EY77677 BMW ///M3 3.2
Series 3' E36 Body Coupe Engine S52 Region USA Left-hand drive, Transmission: Manual Production date October 1997
Last edited by shogun; 09-28-2017 at 01:12 AM.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Unless you run a VIN check, it's almost impossible to visually differentiate an E36 with an automatic transmission that's been converted to manual one. I have an E46 six-speed in my 98 M3 convertible and it looks as if it came out of the factory that way.
Do you have a M3 sedan, coupe or convertible? From the picture you provided it looks like a two door. If the car you bought is a 1998 coupe sold in the North American market then it would not have had automatic transmission, period. 1995 was the only year when automatic transmission equipped E36 m3 coupes were sold in North America.
Also, assuming that you have a coupe... the shift knob should've been the standard leather version, as the luxury package was not offered for the 98 M3.
If you have a sedan or a convertible, try looking under the front end of the car and see if you can see any components (i.e. cooler for the automatic transmission) that have been disconnected or don't seem to be relevant. That might give you a clue as to whether a conversion has been done.
Jon
Last edited by Baby ///M3; 09-28-2017 at 01:54 AM.
08' BMW M5 (Alpine white/Indy red) - Dinan/Brembo/Corsa/Forgestar/Vorsteiner/3M/Dinmann/SMG
98' BMW M3 (Dakar yellow/black) - Dinan/RMS/Vortech/Work/Denon/Brax/Helix/3M/Recaro/Stoptech/AST/6MT/3.91 LSD
BMW 325isA (gone but not forgotten)
ACS Type II front bumper-ACS Type II sport mirrors-ACS Type II roof spoiler-ACS Type I rear apron-ACS rear wing-ACS pedals/dead pedal-ACS wood gear knob-ACS wood trim-ACS badges-BBS RS II 18's-TMS chip-ECIS intake/cover-RMS exhaust-Dinan transmission chip-ERT crank pulley-ZKW/DDEII/Phillips 6000k Hids-Kenwood eXcelon head/CD changer-Alpine sound field processor-PPI Art amps-MBQ speakers-Infinity 10' sub-Alpine 8070 alarm-Chrome trunk lid-Chrome gauge rings-In Pro smoked corners-BMW OEM clear tails-M3 mouldings-M3 floor mats-M3 door sills-M3 Lux wood trim-M3 rear sway-X brace-Koni shocks-Bav Auto springs-JTD RSMs-Front/rear strut braces-E46 front grills-Kamei eyelids-Kamei cf door handles-tinted windows-German ECC plate
E36s have clutch take up close to the ground so I wouldn't worry there. Why are you concerned with if it had been swapped? There shouldn't be any functional differences. Bolt under the gas pedal is just a pedal stop. All of them have it.
Check the VIN. There could be any number of reasons for the plastic around the shifter having been messed with, or for the shifter itself being wonky. People put in short shift kits and whatnot all the time.
1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy
There should be a build sheet under the rear seat.
the question is already answered:
VIN EY77677 BMW ///M3 3.2, Series 3' E36, Body Coupe, Engine S52, Region USA, Left-hand drive, Transmission: Manual, Production date October 1997
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
M3 clutches do catch or engage close to floor. My 328i engages much higher
98 M3 sedan
"Fear disturbs your concentration" -Sabine Schmit
1995 BMW M3/2/5-- S54 + Mk60 DSC, California Smog Legal (Build Thread)
1998 BMW M3/4/5 Alpine/Modena, Z3 Rack, otherwise stock-- DD without burbles
2017 Chevy SS, Orange Blast Metallic, 6MT -- DD with burbles
thats odd then..
98 Estoril ///M3 4/6
S54 swap CSL
RR has owned his '95 since new...and has a recent 6spd swap.
When people say "off the floor" here do they literally mean right off the floor? When I said "close" I meant I had about 1-1.5" of travel off the ground before it reached the engagement point.
Mine has engaged in the first 1/3 of travel off the floor since I can remember.
97 Estoril/Black M3/4/5
"Although we've experienced an M3 sedan with an automatic, our test car came fitted as God intended, with a 5-speed manual ..."
Road & Track May 1997, testing the M3 Sedan
What I’ve been told is that as the clutch is used the release fingers start going flat - at 164 K I still had disk material remaining however the release was very close to the floor. I had a Big Boy clutch stop that I was slowly adjusting towards the floor, eventually had to remove it and revert to Factory floor contact button.
I did not replace with fresh factory parts so I cannot speak to them as restoring the engagement/release point. I installed a Rogue LWT FL, M5 spring center disk and aftermarket M3(?) pressure plate. I’m not sure if the Rogue Eng. unit replicated factory feel.
With ~100K on that clutch the release point in rapidly creeping towards the floor again.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited by bluptgm3; 10-18-2017 at 09:54 AM.
Everybody GTFO with your "it feels about yay much off the floor" clutch engagement point estimates.
Give me measured data with a calibrated scale, I don't trust your ankle muscles and worn-out sneakers for measurement devices.
Eat, drink, and be merry - for tomorrow we drive.
Couldn't possible do that. When I installed the clutch stop, I adjusted it so that the clutch starts biting just off the stop. By just off I mean an 1/8". In practice, its imperceptible, but the clutch doesn't drag, so I call it good.
oh, and it didn't really change after I installed the 6 speed and 325 slave.
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