No codes because the engine doesn't run. However, today we checked the compression: cylinders 1-7 show 130-140. Only 8 shows 100, yet it is still fine for the freshly reassembled engine. We will check the fuel pressure tomorrow. If the fuel won't be the cause, we will bring heavy artillery - oscilloscope to get to the bottom of the problem.
The only thing that really bugs me - when you turn the key in the ignition and let it go as soon as you hear the engine cranking, but the starter still engaged. Why? Because the engine doesn't fire? Is there a sensor to let starter know the engine is running now and it can disengage? Or maybe it's just a burned out relay that doesn't switch it off? Have no idea...
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
What I meant that when the ignition is on there are no codes. Maybe if the engine would run for a bit they may show up. With a non running engine you won't generate any codes for runtime conditions E.G. crankshaft sensor failure.
Last edited by Rokolya87; 11-16-2017 at 12:25 AM.
Replaced the fuel pump and left fuel sensor. The old one was conflicting with the new sensor because the metal tracks that change the resistance were worn down and showed us half a tank, yet it was empty. As soon as the new pump was installed the engine fired up no problem. Drove around the block. All good. Now leaks. Next day took it for 300 miles test drive. All good, except the battery, wasn't holding a charge and after 200 miles the transmission went into "safe mode", didn't let to upshift further than 3rd gear. After 40 miles on the 3rd gear with 3500 RPM at 55 mph, I stopped, turned off the engine, started it again and "safe mode" was gone. The alternator charged the battery and the car turned the safe mode off automatically.
The car was sitting for 2 months with a dead battery. And it wasn't brand new in the first place, so just in case we replaced the battery. Other than that everything works like brand new. Big thanks to everybody who shared ideas and special thanks to FCP Euro for a great price on the parts! Came on time and were cheaper than from local shop wholesale supplier!
Last edited by Rokolya87; 11-28-2017 at 06:23 PM.
Speaking of the devil. I am lucky enough to have an option of purchasing parts from local shop supplier with 2-hour delivery and dirt cheap. So I got a new VARTA battery that was made in Germany for just 92 bucks. When pulled out the old AAA battery I was kinda shocked...first of all the battery was smaller than my new Varta, yet it stated 154 AH on the AAA label. My new one is 95 AH like BMW recommends. Another reason never trust AAA. Why would somebody in his right mind put a battery bigger than recommended without putting more powerful alternator? And yes, they charged the previous owner $215 for it...!?
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Ordered the front strut bar from Russia))) Lol I know it even sounds weird))) High-quality steel alloy for just 50 bucks!? Too bad they don't make the one for the rear. Will be delivered in a couple of weeks, should be way better than those from China or Malasia. Over 10 different colors! Here is a link if somebody wants it too - http://rasporki.com/netshop/bmw/rasp...itovar_49.html
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After 1000 miles, check engine light went off. P0021 - Camshaft Position A - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2)
Symptoms are as follows:
- Car is running well (no missing, smooth power)
- Barely noticeable engine noise sounds like a clock "ticking," not loud enough to hear with the hood closed. NOT A RATTLE like it was before we rebuilt the engine.
- Idling is a bit weird: slightly jumps from 650 to 750(800), like it tries to correct itself...??
I thought it was a sensor, so I put a brand new one. The code came back.
Can the rebuilt VANOS get stuck in one position? Or we screwed up the timing? It was running great with no codes for almost 1000 miles?!
It turned out we really moved the trigger wheel while we were tightening the 24mm nut. We didn't have the best timing tool, so had to use a cheap Chinese made one, which allows a tiny bit of play even if the cam lock blocks stayed flush with the back of the head when we torqued the VANOS center bolt.
To fix the problem we decided to use germanautosolutions.com tool so that we won't screw up again. Will try to use this quick fix. Hopefully, it will work
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Last edited by Rokolya87; 01-28-2018 at 08:45 PM.
Thank you kindly once again for the advice you gave about the transmission heat exchanger. We checked it while the engine was out. Even took a step further by replacing the transmission thermostat (15) and cracked heat exchanger mounting plate (5) along with a few coolant hoses.
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Last edited by Rokolya87; 01-03-2018 at 06:41 PM.
Local BMW dealership didn't have the mounting plate in stock, so I drove to the nearest junkyard and got lucky with 4.4 X5 that was sitting there, with radiator already out and mounting plate with a shiny barcode sticker with 2015 replacement year looking right at me. 12 dollars for the piece (instead of 118.00 plus tax at BMW). Put it all back together, and I thought it was it. BUT!
The heat exchanger and the thermostat aren't the only things that could go wrong. After 2000 miles of driving on highways in California, I found myself stuck in traffic near Palm Springs. In the desert when it's almost 90F even in winter. And after 50 minutes of 3 to 5 mph, my transmission went into the fail-safe mode, without any error coded on the dash or through OBD scanner. Had to pull over, turned off the engine, waited about 10 minutes to cool it off. Then started the car. The problem is gone. But for how long? The tranny works fine until I hit the traffic jam and after a certain amount of time, around 30 to 60 min, depends on how long I drove before that; it falls into fail-safe.
I did some research, and it looks like it doesn't necessarily mean my transmission needs a complete rebuild, there is one more week spot - Valve Body Wiring Harness With Temperature Sensor (13).
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On early V8 4.4 and 4.6l V8 models (2000-2003), erratic shifting and incorrect temperature readings can be the result of a wiring harness 24341423719 that controls the valve body on the transmission. The valve body is a series of hydraulic valves that divert fluid around the transmission to actuate gears, and those valves are actuated by electronic solenoids. Because of the location of this harness (underneath the transmission oil pan) it is exposed to a lifetime of serious heat and chemicals. Eventually, you will encounter jerky and unpredictable shifting, and the transmission holding gears. The harness contains a vital temperature sensor as well that relays important information back to the transmission ECU. If the readings are off, the actions of the ECU will take into account faulty temperatures, something a transmission is very sensitive to.
I was planning to change the transmission oil, regardless of what BMW says (think it’s a coincidence that these cars are having problems after BMW’s recommended “lifetime oil fill”?). So it would be a good time to replace the harness too since I'm taking off the oil pan to replace the filter and the gasket.
Last edited by Rokolya87; 01-05-2018 at 02:01 PM.
Transmission fail-safe problem fixed. We changed the wiring harness with the faulty temperature sensor and put new fluid and filter in it. The problem is now gone. I towed a trailer today, no problem. No overheating, no weird shifting or kicks. Thank God.
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Btw Febi (Bilstein company) now makes fluids for BMW transmissions, about 50% cheaper than ZF fluid. Approved by BMW, VW, Porsche etc. The whole deal for parts was about $300.
Last edited by Rokolya87; 01-28-2018 at 08:48 PM.
The timing problem, on the other hand, is still there. Unfortunately, the quick fix with taking off the 5-8 cylinder cover and adjusting the sensor IMPULSE SENDING WHEEL didn't help. Too bad you can't test it right away. You have to take the whole top apart, spend 6 hours (with professional mechanic help) adjusting and putting everything back together, just to learn that check engine light is still there with the same P0021 code. Exhausting and irritating. Will have to take off both valve covers and redo the timing all over.
Powder coating inside Valve covers after 4000 miles turned green. Yet everything is so clean inside! Love it.
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Well, better luck next time. Now we got the tool from German Solutions, so it should be alright.
Quick update on Febi fluid for X5 transmission. After 10k miles the tranny started to act funny. If falls into failsafe mode. I decided to flush the transmission one more time and use ZF. Obviously, not all the dirt was flashed out the first time we drained it. I called the dealership. 9 quarts will cost $250 which isn't too bad, but they don't flush. So I found a local transmission shop that works with germans and has special adaptors for both drain and fill up holes, so we can put some pressure when changing the oil. Not just draining. Will update soon. Febi was a good choice to wash the tranny the first time. Kinda expensive to put ZF just to clean the dirt out.
On the bright side, I picked up like new cover for X5 that was purchased from the dealership in 2002 and used three times since then and a brand new bra! Looks radical. Plus it will protect the front during my long distance travels. 80 bucks for both. Not bad at all!
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So ZF fluid is in! And what a great difference! No kicks, no fail-safe. BMW dealer didn't want to flush the tranny (not surprised), so I bought the fluid and asked a local tranny shop, which had the right connectors to flush the transmission under pressure. It took 10 liters in total and boy it works fantastic! $250 for ZF fluid, $300 for labor and now all the problems are gone! Finally)))
Yosemite trip or shit happens.
Beautiful spring day, gorgeous mountain road and a steam coming out from the engine compartment. Nice)))
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Good thing I always carry a small set of basic tools. Well, you better have them driving thru the mountains with NO CELLPHONE CONNECTION. 30 min later, I found the devil - inlet coolant hose (11) that goes from the COOLING SYSTEM ACCUMULATOR to the water valve. Simply cut it above the crack, good thing there was enough slack to do it. Filled up with some bottled water and off we go. Got a new hose yesterday from Napa Auto parts for $30 (made in Germany), took me less than 20 min to replace. Filled up with BMW coolant, yet it looks like there will be necessary to flush the system and replace it with a proper mix of BMW coolant and distilled water. Too much work was done on that engine to let carbon build-ups to appear.
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Installed a strut bar. Fits right in, 5 min to bolt it in. I'll put a few k miles to give an honest feedback later. So far I'm happy with quality (not cheap Chinese crap) and the way they went around the windshield fluid reservoir.
BTW I tried to put Amsoil after watching this video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWuKvnCq1js
Turned out Mobil 1 I was using isn't that good at all.
Even thou I didn't expect much from changing oil brands, but I've got 20% (yes twenty) increase MPG, averaging now 25 MPG, which isn't bad at all for 18 year old vehicle with 250,000 on the odometer.
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So...what problems did this old joint cause for you??? Because my is stiff as if the pump has went out...
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Bro I have a 1/4 issue on my x5 where the does go below that. New pump and sender unit what could be the problem??
Can you describe the problem more thoroughly? How it broke down and what did you try to fix so far?
PTF.
I am about 2.5 years behind you. I should have some parts in next week and can start my journey thread. For now just giving a deep clean and fixing some door handles.
p.s. Had some misfire and timing codes so hopefully that was just some spark plugs that were replaced and never cleared the codes. Disconnected the battery so they are gone for now. Really hoping I don't have to do an engine rebuild like you did.
Get yourself one of those Bluedriver OBD scanners that connect to your smartphone. It is important to know what code the engine shows you.
A few questions, so I can better understand the condition of your X5: year, milage, engine size? Was the chain guides changed and when if yes?
Recently done a major maintenance for my Bimmer. Transfer case chain was so loose, it started to make rattle noise when the car accelerates. Plus a few little things here and there: Water Pump, Thermostat, Both Front Axles, Rear brakes and rotors, etc.
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The mechanic is a friend of mine, so I like to bring him a clean car from top to bottom. There is such a HUGE difference underneath after that steam wash! Everything looks brand new! What a pleasure to work on a car when it looks like this. And now it drive like a new car!
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