My new-to-me '97 540i came with a really nice list!

[makenzie71]

P0300
P0150
P1385
P0330
P1384
P0135
P0155
P1186
P1187
P0136
P0156
P0130
P0305
P0307
P0306
P0308
P0305
P0325

Also the ABS light lol

[HoZy]

P0300 - Multiple cylinder misfire
P0150 - O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 1
P1385- Knock sensor circuit 4
P0330- Knock sensor circuit 2
P1384- Knock sensor circuit 3
P0135- O2 Sensor Heater Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0155- O2 Sensor Heater Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 1
P1186- O2 Sensor Heater Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2
P1187- O2 Sensor Heater Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0136- O2 Sensor Heater Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0156- O2 Sensor Heater Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 2
P0130- O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0305- Misfire Cylinder 5
P0306- Misfire Cylinder 6
P0308- Misfire Cylinder 8
P0305- (You entered this twice)
P0325- Knock Sensor Circuit 1

Any signs the motor has ever been removed? Were they current? Pending? Ghost?

I would clear all the codes & check again after driving further if the vehicle seems to run correctly.

If codes return, I would remove your passenger side (In the engine bay) cabin filter & open up the computer box using torx t30 from memory, I may be wrong & look for any liquid/coolant ingress on the wires as a safety check.

If there is not, I would check for catalytic converter failure as clogged cats can cause knocks & misfire.

I would also inspect your intake boot after the MAF for vacuum leaks and inspect the intake manifold.

But to me, it seems like A lot of things were unplugged after an engine remove/re-install and it was test started.

If you would like to delve further I would pick up either an INPA compatible cable or a PASOFT/BMWSCANNER clone from the usual sources, software to support can be found in the diagnostic section of this forum.
Either of those devices will give you a much more in-depth look at the vehicles modules & the codes currently present. I would suggest PASOFT/BMWSCANNER.

Cheers
Mat

[makenzie71]

lol sorry man I knew what the codes were I didn't mean to make anyone look them up...I just thought it was amusing that when I checked it pull 44 codes (there were a lot of repeats).

I actually did clear them all and pull again after a quick two minute drive with one WOT pull.

P0150
P1385
P0330
P0130
P1384

I just haven't had a chance to get down and look yet. I'm going to crawl under the car later today and check all the wiring. The car seems to have mostly sat for a long time.

[HoZy]

All good mate.
I would start with checking the DME/Computer box for water ingress.
It should only take about 10-15minutes and is always a great indicator of the condition of the vehicle as they also have a tendency of seeping coolant up the thermostat MAP (Electronic heater) wires to the DME causing false faults and can cause shorts & DME hysteria.

I would also suggest clearing codes & going for a leisurely drive with no WOT and seeing if those same codes log as it would be a good indicator on catalytic condition I assume.

Also, pull your spark plugs & check them all as well as for OIL(710 if you're upside down) in the spark plug valleys indicating valve cover gasket failure.

Hope you figure it out mate, be sure to keep us updated. It could be as simple as a VAC leak.

Cheers
Mat

Edit: It could also be a timing issue if the guides have ever been done.

From BMW's WDS - description of knock control
###############
Knock Control


Tasks of the knock control system
Operation of an engine with knocking combustion over a prolonged period can lead to serious damage. Knocking tendency is increased by:

•Increased compression ratio

•High cylinder charge

•Poor fuel quality (RON/MON)

•High intake air and engine temperatures

The compression ratio can also reach excessively high values due to deposits or production-related scatter.

On engines without knock control, these unfavourable influences must be taken into consideration in the ignition design by providing a safety distance to the knock limit. However, this results in unavoidable losses in efficiency in the upper load range.

The knock control can prevent knocking engine operation. For this purpose, if there is an imminent risk of knocking, the control retards the ignition timing of the corresponding cylinder(s) (cylinder-selective) as far as necessary. This makes it possible to adapt the ignition characteristic map to the consumption-optimum values without having to take the knock limit into consideration. A safety distance is no longer necessary.

The knock control system carries out all knock-related corrections to the ignition timing and enables perfect operation also with regular grade fuel (minimum RON 91).

The knock control provides:

•Protection against knocking damage also under unfavourable conditions

•High efficiency due to optimum utilization of the fuel quality and consideration of the relevant engine status

•Logistics advantages with regard to fuel availability

•Lower consumption and higher torque over the entire upper load range (corresponding to the fuel quality used).

Design of knock control system
The M54, the M52 and the M43 are equipped with a cylinder bank-selective, adaptive knock control system. A double knock sensor detects combustion knock. The sensor signals are evaluated in the DME control unit.

The knock sensor is a piezo-electric structure-borne noise microphone. It picks up the structure-borne noise and converts it into voltage signals.

Function of the knock control system
If knocking occurs, the ignition is retarded for a certain number of working cycles and then gradually approaches the original value. The retard setting can be controlled individually for each cylinder bank (cylinder bank selective).

In the event of the knock sensor failing, a fault code is entered in the fault code memory of the DME control unit. In the case of fault, the engine is protected by constant retard setting of the ignition timing.

Installation Locations/Conditions
The double knock sensor is secured by means of an 8 mm screw on the water jacket of the engine block between both cylinder banks. It is arranged such that each sensor monitors one cylinder bank.

Only screw locking compound may be used to lock the screws. Washers, spring washers or serrated lock washers must under no circumstances be used.

Self-diagnosis and emergency operation of the knock control system
Self-diagnosis of the knock control system includes following checks:

•Check for sensor signal interference/line break, plug connector defective etc.

•Self-test of entire evaluation circuit

•Check of basic engine noise level detected by the knock sensor

The knock control system is switched off if a fault is found during the course of one of these checks. The emergency program adopts the task of controlling the ignition timing. At the same time, a defect code is stored in the defect code memory. The emergency program ensures damage-free operation as from minimum RON 91. It depends on the engine load, speed and temperature.
#################

[makenzie71]

so...to inspect/replace the knock sensors it seems I have to remove the intake manifold. Would it be worth my time to find another manifold to swap in since I'll have it apart? I don't know if there's a gain like what would be seen swapping an OBDII E36 to an OBDI manifold.

[dannyzabolotny]

Eh, the gains are minimal from what I've seen. Just get some new intake manifold gaskets and do the valley pan gasket while you're at it. You'll need to remove the water pump and water pipes to actually replace the knock sensors (at least the one on the driver's side) so might as well do everything at once.

[makenzie71]

I'm a little reluctant to open up the valley pan because it doesn't leak...I don't know if that means it was done recently or if I got one of the lucky non-TU's that don't have valley pan or timing guide problems (absolutely no noise from the timing guides).

[makenzie71]

well there's part of my problem.



https://i.imgur.com/0m7cIi4.jpg

Why does this not show up in img tags? ninja edit ~ seems to be working now.

Anyway...since it's hard to see...there's no catalytic converter on the passenger side. Also the post O2 sensor on the driver's side has some chewed up shielding.

[makenzie71]

Okay I'm getting mixed hits on this...would the DME pick up on there not being a cat on one side?

[makenzie71]

Dug into the DME box while the kids were at soccer practice today, Hozy...the EF3 fuse was blown. That one seems to control the O2 heaters, but also a lot of other stuff (like cam sensors and MAF and crank sensor and so on according to a bimmerfest thread). I replaced it, cleared codes, still got O2 heater and knock sensor codes.

Are the knock sensors those two plugs on top of the engine over the heads?

[HoZy]

Dug into the DME box while the kids were at soccer practice today, Hozy...the EF3 fuse was blown. That one seems to control the O2 heaters, but also a lot of other stuff (like cam sensors and MAF and crank sensor and so on according to a bimmerfest thread). I replaced it, cleared codes, still got O2 heater and knock sensor codes.

Are the knock sensors those two plugs on top of the engine over the heads?

Some pics of the knock sensor plugs can be found here, but your description sounds accurate.

There is a possibility the O2 sensors are dead, or fouled beyond belief seeing as your system has had 1 cat converter removed (Which the engine would hate having 1 free flowing bank vs the other with noticable restriction).
Potentially decide what you're wanting to do exhaust wise, either remove them completely or install 2 new magnaflow cats etc.


https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...2#post26517092

Cheers
Mat

[makenzie71]

The list after running the kids to and from soccer practice (after replacing the EF3 fuse)

P0135 O2 Heater B1/S1
P0155 O2 Heater B2/S1
P1186 O2 Heater B1/S2
P1187 O2 Heater B2/S2

P0325 Knock Sensor Circuit 1
P0330 Knock Sensor Circuit 2
P1384 Knock Sensor Circuit 3
P1385 Knock Sensor Circuit 4

P0156 (this also seems to be O2 Heater circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2)

No O2 circuit faults this time, though. And still the same knock sensor circuits. The fuse is still intact.

The knock sensors I can't make heads or tails of. They are plugged in. The odds of having FOUR bad knock sensors seems unlikely. Maybe they have a fuse somewhere.

I'm not quite ready to replace the cats but I agree...it needs to be evened out. I don't know if I'll do a test pipe on the one or find some working used replacements for both. I haven't had a lot of luck finding factory exhaust components for this car.

[HoZy]

What build month is your 39? is it before sept 97 or after sept 97?

I'll post up some diagrams.

Cheers
Mat

[makenzie71]

07/96.

[HoZy]

Could only attach 5 images, but you get the idea.

Bottom right should show what they are.

Cheers
Mat