Over the past three months I've been having a hell of a time trying to get this M62 Non Vanos to run. Engine has low low miles and has been resealed. I noticed the cams were out of alignment yesterday so I retimed them using proper tools. I go for a start and it wont fire up, just backfires out of the intake. I do some research find out I can run without the cam position sensor, so i unplug it and i get it started finally. Now, its running rough again. I go unplug coils to see what cylinders are acting up and its #5 & #8 or front and rear of drivers side (North America) head. Anything I should check? I dont want to swap another engine in. But I have a feeling the compression is low on those two cylinders. Any help would be great. Thanks
'95 540i - Cosmos on Black
'01 M5 - TiAg
Is this an obdI swapped M62 in an E34?
yes, trigger wheel was modified and crank pickup arm was welded on in proper place. At least I think
honestly it never ran properly, always missing on those two cylinders. I'm going to do a compression test and report back
I'm having a tough time diagnosing a lumpy idle/lean issue on an M62 swap... Certainly wise to perform compression test, but have you also tried stomp test to see if it's throwing any codes?
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You guys are scaring me, I'm currently putting together an M62/M60 hybrid for my E34 540i. But I'm planning on using the M60 double chain and timing covers.
I think my problems lie with the cam trigger wheel. But I also think my compression is bad on those two cylinders because if i unplug the cam position sensor it still runs like chit. Probably gonna have to swap an M60 back into this thing for it to run properly again. The M62 pipe dream can be left for someone else to attempt.
Mykk: If you know the motor you are building is solid, you shouldn't have any major problems. There's a wealth of information here to troubleshoot minor problems. One word of advice - Take care of ALL the little things along the way, so you're not left wondering later. In my case I'm kicking myself for not replace the PCV valve and having the injectors cleaned while the intake was off.
Costa: Don't toss in the towel yet. Get that compression test done and if it checks out, pull the valve covers and recheck/reset the cam timing. I'm beginning to question my own timing related to having followed the Pelican Parts instructions, which sets cam timing using the newly installed tensioner, without it being oil filled. I think I should have stuck with the slight difference in timing that the tensioner tool provided. What I'm trying to say is the timing may be off on just one bank on our cars.
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My build will be very different from your guys build; M62 short block, M60 heads and cams & timing chains. Jaguar Eaton M112 supercharger. Speed Density convertion on custom coded Motronic M3.3
So I'm sure my headaches and problems will be of different natures :-P
mykk your compression will be raised and that positive displacement supercharger will destroy all your work. have you thought of a way to lower you compression?
They certainly will be. LOL
I guess my question to you would be, why bother with the Frankenstein conversion, if your true power is coming from the blower? Wouldn't it be infinitely easier and equally effective to just supercharge an m60b40?
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So what are the compression numbers?
Nothing yet, will proceed with investigations on the weekend.
guys pleas help i cracket my m60b40 engine and i swapped m62b44 non wanos engine i left the old dme and wiring but camshaft position sensor isnt working does anyone know how to make it work without rebulding engine on m60b44 timing
Easy. Throw the intake lobe center out. 120-125 degrees should do it. It drops your dynamic compression and cranking psi to boostable levels and improves high RPM cylinder filling.
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The trigger wheel for the camshaft position sensor must be modified to read like the M60B40 cam gear. You might be able to do it just by pulling the valve cover.
With a 115 LSA my math puts your exhaust lobe center at 110 degrees. With the intake so far out it wouldn't hurt to run the exhaust on a tighter lobe center, 105 degrees at least. I think you would do best with about ten degrees of overlap. Not so much that you'll be blowing boost out the exhaust but just enough to scavenge the combustion chambers and push all that old spent charge out. Might take a little trial and error to dial in. The good news is that it is super easy to tweak just the exhaust cams. Considerably less work than adjust the intake cams and then having to reset the exhaust cams too whether you wanted to or not.
Apologies to OP, wasn't my intention to thread jack.
Did you find your issue?
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