REAR DOORS
From what it looks like - those will be easier to work on. There is no pockets and big hump. No pocket to "unglue" and "reglue". And no extra cuts. Also, those are pretty level. But again - I'm writing in real-time, maybe there will be something else
Let's start. Hopefully forum will handle all those pictures
1. This is how it looked originally
2. Some details of original condition
3. Top
4. Another pic of delaminating top
5. Pulling insert - you can see how it was "repaired" before..
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6. Another picture of what you should not do to your doors!!!
7. Car will be faster without all this metal
8. This is what I have now after removing old vinyl and million staples. Card is damaged by staples! Now I have to sand it smooth..
9. One view of top in relation to bottom.
10. Another view of top in relation to bottom.
Question about #9-10. Do you know how they should go in relation to each other?? Should they be flush? Mine is unglued and so far the only challenge I see is how to glue them back together.
What glue, what position, etc...
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11. Clean old green glue with tack free cloth/acetone. Sand it good.
12. Sand on inside, this is surface which will be glued to the bottom card. See my previous Q in red. I think they need to be glued only along top
13. Another view of prepped and old tops, you can see how someone tried to glue it back but it came apart again.
14-15. Just pictures of ends for future reference on how it was.
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This is where I ended. Working out small bits before going to main cards
16. There was crack on top piece so I glued it back in. I used Dynatron because I have it laying around, any epoxy will do I guess, just need to prep surface.
17. Mark and cut inserts from pre-made cardboard with foam. OTH, originals is not bad at all and I could reuse them. Even reuse foam. They totally fine and made from different material than front door. But I won't because I already had material.
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Now working faster, doing 2 inserts at the same time
rear inserts.jpg
Rear door card re-done completely, including top gray parts. Edge that goes under chrome is what delaminated on mine. I decided to give it additional "press" when gluing.
As usual, all sanded, degreased. Glue on both surfaces, wait 5-10 minutes. Glue together and put between 2 wooden planks for better adhesion on edge.
reartop1.jpgreartop2.jpgreartop3.jpg
I bought 3 yards of vinyl. I did screw up on one front card, so now for rear cards I had to work with very tight tolerances
rearmeasure.jpg
As usual, nothing new this time. Lay vinyl over, pick a line, measure, apply glue, wait. This time I was gluing all way down to final bend.
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After bottom on - measure second section up to door handle bottom, apply.
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After above was done I cut releifs in vinyl where it goes around handle. This way I had much less shrinking going on. And it's not visible anyway.
Finish gluing, light trim.
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Didn't make pictures of final assembly of top dark gray and bottom, if someone interested - I will make one on a last door I still have to glue together.
But I used 2 planks again + some hot glue to get those together.
rr1.jpg
Some closeup details
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Card installed. I had to remove chrome piece before installation and reinstall later. It looks really good, this is what I was worrying about the most and it came out great!
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Now I notices when cards pushed against a door - vinyl rubbing against door makes squeaks. I hope it's not going to be the case while driving, otherwise something will have to be done to fix that
Yesterday I was pissed. One of the door inserts just came out on RR door. We had about 85F and car was parked on parked lot.
This "professional" glue was all "sticky" just like it never dried out..
I HOPE root cause for this is vinyl I replaced and maybe vinyl give out some fumes/oils which caused glue to soften? I'm just not sure about whole thing now. I used this glue everywhere on A/B/C pillars and headliner, all door cards..
I think you did a great job. I just picked up four good door cards from a '95 540i to replace the ratty ones in my car. I think I'll try and save the old ones now that I've got spares.
Chris
1991 BMW 525i
M50 with auto trans
Build date 10/90
Alpine White II
Black/tan interior with leather
This is exactly the how-to I have been looking for!! I am getting ready to completely restore the interior in my 95 Calypso 540i 6-speed and I'm going with BMW Chateau Dakota Leather, so I'll need to redo all of the doors, pillars, console, rear shelf, etc. I was worried about the door cards, but this has been very educational. We're you able to sus-out the issue with the adhesive on the door card insert letting go? Also, where did you source the vinyl that you used. Any links? Thanks again for a spectacular write up and how-to!!
I did headliner and pillars in suede as well, you should be able to find pics and thoughts under my name from around same time or little earlier. That part holds up great, looks great and no issues.
We are seeing temps of 100F+ and all holds well.
Door card inserts:
My conclusion it's issue with vinyl. Probably vinyl gives out some fumes or whatever. Also, card built using cardboard (aslo I don't see glue separating from cardboard). So, something between cardboard and vinyl makes glue soften in heat. I didn't decide how I'm going to reglue this YET, but this is not that critical, anything can be used there and it's easy to reapply.
I still drive without rear cards as I'm waiting on my tint guy to come over.
ADVICE on door cards:
I see vinyl coming off in certain spots (I see because I know, other's don't)
If you read how I did it - you see that I applied glue in stripes. That's causing overlap in glue. It's also causing glue which you apply close to previous glue to maybe not dry as soon as other(remember 5-10 minutes). Anyway, at those spots there is delamination in places as glue didn't take on.
If I was doing it again I would do all the same but I would not glue outer rim with a step. I would put vinyl flat on a card and then do perimeter separately all in one shot. This would ensure nice adhesion.
Quick update: World upholstery sells BMW vinyl's. Just ordered samples from them. From phone conversation I learned that vinyl will be thinner than original (the one on cards) but should be good color match. Cost is $40 per yard 51 inch wide. From what I understand I may need like 3-4 yards of light and 1 yard of dark to do this. Stay tuned..
Last edited by katit2; 07-05-2018 at 01:59 PM.
What suede material did you use for the headliner, etc.? Was it foam backed? I see it available both ways. Most say that they don't stretch, how did you get it to conform to the contours of the headliner?
I used Toray brand ultrasuede. Ordered samples from distributor and then just searched eBay. Typically it’s $60+ per yard material but you can get it for like $20 from eBay. This is US made analog of Alcantara. I would be really careful about any other ultrasuedes as quality varies. Mine is not foam baked. After doing a-b-c pillars you get hang of it. It doesn’t stretch that good but obviously doable. I glued it in sections
Hello, I just found this post. Thanks for the images. What kind of glue did you use to attach the vinyl to the door card?
Current BMWs: 14 total. '12 X5, '09 E93 335i, '09 E91 328i, '08 E93 328i, '08 E61 535ix '02 E39 M5, '01 E39 M5, '02 E39 touring, '91 E34 M5, (2)'88 E28 M5s, '75 2002, 74 2002,
Prior BMWs: Every E-body 5 series including tourings and every E-body 3 series. '74 2002 tii
First rule of BMW Ownership: Buy a BMW specific scanner!
This is glue you need: (not necessarily best price here)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/WELWOOD-CON...-/323731328585
Very important! You have to put couple layers of glue on card and on vinyl. Let them dry for 30 minutes or so. Then, re-activate glue with heat gun and join surfaces. If you just follow directions and let it stick after 5-10 minutes it won't work.
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