0B0AC6BB-0355-4A3E-B1D6-13C3610EDACD.jpgI got a m20 e34 with an oils leak coming from the cylinder head and the block. I just changed out the HG and the head resurfaced before but after putting everything back on the car started to run hot and I had some issues with a broken upper radiator neck. I just fixed that and started the car up and noticed a pool of oil coming from this spot. Any help would be greatly appreciate
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Last edited by Cintas; 10-14-2019 at 03:04 PM.
How hot did it get? You may want to check for a leaky head gasket (cylinder to cylinder, cylinder to coolant, coolant to oil, etc).
It got to the red line but I shut it off before it past it. I am checking the gasket now. I’ll report back.
Here is the headgasket I think the head bolts weren’t tightened down enough. They seemed loose when I pulled it back off. I torqued them to 22ft I’ll do some more research and verify the correct torque specs.
Before bolting the head again, it will be a good idea to have your local shop ensure it is flat. The top of the engine block should be equally flat as well. I used ARP studs and a Victor Reinz gasket once, but after a year, still got a leak between cylinders 3 and 4, exhaust manifold side. I would try to get a BMW branded gasket.
Is possible for the head to be warped if the car only ran for just a little bit. I haven’t actually drove it after changing the timing belt and headgasket the first time.
I thought so too, but everything I find indicates that the correct torque is 22ftlbs. Any recommendations on where I could find the correct specs?
It's something like 22ft/lb for stage 1, then have a beer and come back in 20 min.
Then do torque to 60ft/lbs , run engine until warm 20min
Then finish off with a 1/8 turn nip up.
It's something like that, but it's more than 22ft/lbs in the end! Its insane to think that only 22ft/lb is the final cyl head torque value!
Clip from bentley below (they have a different procedure depending on the head type, and for torx they say 22ft/lb, the a 90deg turn stage 2, then another 90 deg turn stage 3)
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Last edited by fo3; 10-16-2019 at 11:50 AM.
Thanks!!
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
So I have tightened down the head bolts and still have a leak. It isn’t constant and I am also getting a oil pressure message on my dash as well. I am at lost. The timing belt snapped and I had the head resurfaced and new head gasket. I did have an issue with the the car running warm. I did address that, just needed to bleed the line, the car wasn’t leaking oil before the heating issue. I can’t figure out what’s causing the low pressure.
You initially described a "pool" of oil, that's a serious leak, perhaps enough to diminish pressure.
If the leak is at the head/block mating surface I'd say it's time to open it up again and re-examine your work.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
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