E39 540i crank no start following timing chain replacement

[Jay M.]

Greetings All,

I've lurked this forum for the last year since purchasing and maintaining my 194K 2003 540i - I've always had great luck resolving my issues with the numerous resources available on this site. Unfortunately I'm finally compelled to post a thread as I feel I've exhausted most of my options and I'm nearly out of ideas.

A few weeks ago I replaced the timing chains, guides, tensioners, power steering lines, and spark plugs on my M62TU. Those guides I "removed" (Read: crumbled out of my vehicle) were super jacked up. I followed the guides found on this forum as well as Pelicanparts, and the job itself went pretty smoothly. I used an M62TU timing block kit, the camshafts were locked, the flywheel pinned, and the camshaft position pickup rings were re-installed with the provided tools to ensure the correct positioning. A week after starting the job I was re-assembled and ready to start the car back up for the first time.

I turned the key, the engine made a terrible clattering noise for about 1-2 seconds as oil pressure built up and the tensioners started working properly. Once oil was flowing, the engine quieted down to a normal volume after 2 seconds, and stumbled with a wandering idle for about 2 minutes. This stumbling idle has been normal on my vehicle anytime I unplug the battery since I've owned the car. The engine never died during this stumbling period. After about 2 minutes, the car was warming up, the idle was smooth and at its normal RPM, and I was pleased with how things were going. I brought the revs up and had a friend continually topping off the coolant throughout this process. Immediately once the coolant levels dropped, more was added to the reservoir. I brought the engine to WOT to free any oils and debris from the new timing chains and guides. It sang nicely near redline and was very responsive. The temp gauge did not travel above the normal halfway operational mark. Around this point, a good volume of coolant started to spray out of the bleed port. I forgot to have my friend close it in my excitement that my car was working. I shut the car off, hoping to top off the coolant in a few minutes and go for a victory drive after eating some dinner.

30 minutes later, I topped of coolant. The coolant temp gauge was still at normal operating temperature at this time. I cranked the car, but it would not start. Zero combustion of any kind, and this problem has persisted.

Here are the steps I have taken, in order, in the last 3 weeks in attempt to diagnose this issue:

• Check battery voltage, jumped car after few initial cranks. It is now plugged into a charger at all times in my garage. Voltage is always 12.2-12.7 when I make startup attempts.
• Checked that coil packs are connected to the correct wiring harness. This is particularly difficult to mess up on the M62TU, and I'm confident they are in the correct position.
• Checked for any CELs or warning lights with a basic code reader. No codes.
• Verified that coil pack ground wires are connected to correct standoffs in valve cover.
• Verified spark in cylinder 1 and 5. With the new plugs that I installed during the job, I have brilliant white spark that jumps 1cm to the ground terminal on the shock tower.
• Verified fuel pressure is on the order of ~50psi during cranking. I used a Harbor Freight gauge which is a genuine hazard without teflon tape, fuel was spraying everywhere out of the gauge but I saw it reach 50psi before I was getting soaked in fuel and called off the test.
• Removed injectors from fuel rail, cleaned intake manifold upper surface and injector ports. Cleaned and inspected injectors, lubricated the upper and lower injector O-rings, and re-installed the fuel rail. Confirmed that the fuel rail is fully and evenly bolted down to the intake manifold, and that the injectors are seated properly.
• Attached a timing light to the injector wires to verify they are getting pulses during cranking.
• Lifted fuel rail, confirmed that fuel sprays from injectors in ports 1 and 5. I'm not sure if its enough fuel, but fuel is being injected.
• Using a timing light on cylinder 1 coil pack, cranked the car and verified that the OT mark on the crankshaft pulley comes around at the correct time (45 degrees counter clockwise from the top of the pulley, where the OT mark is on the lower timing case). This is consistent for numerous crank attempts.
• Verified that cylinder 6, which is 5th in the firing order, also comes around on the OT mark. I have now confirmed the timing in both banks, which gives me confidence in the timing job itself and the functioning of the cam and crankshaft position sensors.
• Sprayed brake cleaner into intake at WOT during cranking, no combustion
• Unplugged MAF, attempted startup, no combustion
• Removed intake tubing, verified throttle valve responds to pedal input
• Sprayed brake cleaner directly through throttle valve at WOT during cranking, no combustion
• After cranking numerous times with no combustion, I thought I could have compression loss from bore wash with all the fuel running down into the cylinders. Removed all the spark plugs and dried (they were not very wet), added a few CC's of engine oil into each cylinder. Cranked the engine with no plugs slowly to distribute oil. Did a few fast cranks to remove excess oil. Re-installed plugs. First crank had maybe 1-2 compression events, subsequent cranks nothing.
• Checked all fuses. Nothing is blown.
• Anytime the car sits for a few days without me attempting a startup, the first crank might have one or two combustion events, but never catches. Subsequent cranks never have combustion.
• Got myself a K+DCAN cable and INPA running on my laptop. Read the codes after a few crank attempts. Here's what I've got:

Error 122, Ambient Temperature
Error Frequency: 1
Logistic Counter: 40

Engine temp: 22.5 C
Ambient temp: 26.25 C
Ambient temp: 20.25 C
Supply voltage: 12.06 V

Error currently available
Error Tested
Error Value received current,
Error value received initial

Error 117, DK-Potentiometer
Error Freq: 1
Logistic counter: 40
Engine speed: 0.00 /min
Angle DK Oriented to DK-at stop: 100.01% DK
Voltage DK-Potentiometer 1: 4.93 V
Voltage DK-Potentiometer 2: 0.00 V

Error currently availible
Current unplausible
Initial unplausible
SCATT-active

Error 118, Throttle-valve potentiometer 1
Error Freq: 1
Logistic counter: 40
Engine speed: 0.00 /min
Setpoint DK-angle oriented to lower stop: 1.95%
Ambient temperature: 0.00 C
Air mass meter 0.00 kg/h

Error currently availible
Signal too big or open circuit current
Signal too big or open circuit initial
SCATT-active

Error 119, Throttle-valve potentiometer 2
Error Freq: 1
Logistic counter: 40
Engine speed: 0.00 /min
Setpoint DK-angle oriented to lower stop: 1.95%
Ambient temperature: 20.25 C
Air mass meter 0.00 kg/h

Error currently availible
Signal too low or open circuit current
Signal too low or open circuit initial
SCATT-active

Error 134, Test lower at stop
Error frequency: 4 (# of startup attempts on this scan)
Logistic counter: 40

Supply voltage: 10.27 V
Intake air temp: 32.25 C (Engine was cool, outside temp was 24C)
Voltage DK-pot 1: 0.9 V
udkp1a_u: 0.7 V

Error tested
Test lower at stop faulty current
Test lower at stop faulty initial
E-flag debounce
CARB debounce
Fault sporadic

Based on everything I've done up to this point, and given the fact that the car started, ran well for 5-10 mins before being turned off, I think this is an electrical issue. The problem is that I cannot identify why the car will not start when I have verified fuel, spark, timing, and confirmed the throttle body is opening an closing. There were only 2 vacuum lines disconnected for this whole job, so I don't know what else under the "air" umbrella could be limiting combustion. I have not measured compression, but seeing as the car ran and did not overheat, I'm dubious compression loss is enough to cause my current issue.

My interpretation of the INPA codes is that the MAF is malfunctioning. The throttle body is also making an audible electrical straining noise when the key is in the ignition. I have verified that the throttle valve responds to pedal position, and the car will not start even with the MAF unplugged. Is there some sort of ECU logic that would prevent startup given these errors? The only variable that changed between when my car started the first time, and failed to start since was that coolant was sprayed in the passenger front side of the engine bay, near the MAF, and possibly onto the throttle body.

Any help or plausible ideas I haven't addressed fully would be much appreciated. I would like to identify probable cause before dumping money into sensors and new parts shotgun style. At this point I'm over the fact that my car isn't working and I'm not in a terrific rush. I've had 3 aerospace engineers (myself included) and an engine design engineer for Indycar take a look at this thing -- I'm trying to understand WHY and make sense of this little hissy fit my car is throwing .

Thanks again for taking a look and all the well organized information available on this site.

[Mach540]

Wow, you seem to have done a good job of trying to trouble shoot the problem. The only thing I can think of to try is starting fluid instead of brake cleaner. I'm not sure if brake cleaner will even work to check for combustion, and/or you might have a non-volatile version.

[Jay M.]

I considered that the brake clean might not be an appropriate substitute for starter fluid, but the can is absolutely plastered with extreme flammability warnings and I'm inclined to take their word for it.

[geargrinder]

Well. An assload of things are flammable. Doesn't mean you should or could run an engine on em.

But aside from that - great job of checking a ton of stuff and giving a solid write up of everything that happened .

That rundown illustrates why a generic Peepee code reader is teh sux vs real BMW code results.

I think those throttle body codes are your issue. They are throttle body and not MAF codes. Check the TB connector. Coolant could have easily splashed all over it in the incident and screwed it up. Perfect plausibility for the events described. TBs can crap out but first I'd check the connector. That's what the codes are telling you. The DME won't start the engine if it thinks the TB has major issues.

[Jay M.]

W.
I think those throttle body codes are your issue. They are throttle body and not MAF codes. Check the TB connector. Coolant could have easily splashed all over it in the incident and screwed it up. Perfect plausibility for the events described. TBs can crap out but first I'd check the connector. That's what the codes are telling you. The DME won't start the engine if it thinks the TB has major issues.

Thanks for the tips... I checked the TB connector just now and cleaned a bit of fresh looking gunk out of the receptacle. Very possible that some fluid got in there and shorted out the module. I'm getting a high pitched straining sound from the TB servomotors when I turn the key to ignition. Is this normal for other 540 owners? The valve has full mobility but makes a fair amount of noise holding a static position. Just wondering if theres a good way to test this out to confirm any possible damage.

[Mach540]

Yep, the whining is normal, and if it's doing that, than if it were me, I would assume that the TB is working correctly. Especially since you have have witnessed it moving properly with the pedal input.

I have no more ideas since you say you have verified all four legs required for a running engine.

:Air
:Fuel
:Compression
:Spark

Stumped......

[TheAngryBear]

Awesome job troubleshooting. Like the others said, well done and clear allowing most things to be ruled out.

Did you recalibrate the TB ever? The 03s need to be put in KP2 (engine off) for about 30 seconds. You will hear a loud "click" then take the key out (still no start). I like to do it twice but once is technically sufficient.

It will start and run (at times) without this. It may also throw your engine into failsafe mode.

Hate to say it but I wouldn't be surprised if the TB is dead from getting splashed while uncalibrated. Hopefully not.
Edit: I (for one) do NOT have an audible whine when starting. But YMMV?

Another thing to check:
1) vacuum leaks. I know you checked for them but if massive enough they just shut down the engine with no codes. And if they are that massive you likely will overlook it. Possible areas: TB gasket, CCV, air pipe under manifold, and valve covers.
2) other sensor connections that may have been splashed.

The wandering idle and vacuum leak happened to me last year when I did my guides. Story is available on the "other channel".


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[geargrinder]

+1 on servo noise being fine.

The codes are saying the DME is seeing 'open circuit' currently on both feedback potentiometers, and if it has major TB errors, it will - at best - run only in failsafe mode. Note that the errors are about the pots - these are the redundant (1 & 2) 'position sensors' that feedback to the DME that 'the throttle plate is in X position'. So very easily the servo driver connections could be functioning fine to move the plate, the DME just can't know what position it is in when it does, which severely bums these computers out.

If you clear all those codes, do the TB errors come back? I assume they do as they say 'currently available'. Those should not be there and are a problem for sure. The reason with these codes that you might test everything fine and not get a start is although it moves the plate around on ignition on (doing the pre-test and adaptation check), if it has an error like that it will leave it clamped shut when you actually crank.

You could try propping the TB open just a bit, and using proper starting fluid and see if you get it to fire.

But given the car started and ran nearly perfectly at first try, if I had to bet I'd say if you can get those errors to clear that you'll sort you out. If you found crap in the TB socket then there's probably some up in the plug itself too perhaps still causing problems. The plugs can come apart to get cleaned - you can actually pull it down to separate the individual pin-sockets from the housing. Use a proper contact cleaner to wash out moisture and contaminants etc. (aka. don't just use brake cleaner for everything because its flammable and in a spray can).

If you get those errors fully cleared and STILL have no-start, well then I'd also be suspicious of the compression at this point. Sounds like maybe you rushed the bore wash check... normally the suggestion is leave the oil sitting in bores overnight?

[TheAngryBear]

Geargrinder brings up an interesting point on compression. I didn't experience it but can see it happening.

As he said, I still mainly suspect the TB.


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[Jay M.]

Thanks everyone for the insight. I knew I would get heckled for my usage of brake clean when I posted on here... probably rightfully so, but sometimes you try things out with what you've got in the garage.

Anyway, I re calibrated the TB twice as per Angrybear's suggestions. Cleaned out the TB connector, and cleared the error codes on INPA, and reset adaptations. The only errors that returned after 3 unsuccessful cranks were:

122 Ambient Temperature Signal
134 Throttle Actuator Adaptation Lower Stop

I can't find much information pertaining to error 122 online. I'm guessing this is MAF, unless there is another temp sensor located somewhere in the throttle body I'm unaware of. Error 134 still involves the throttle body.

My current plan is to grab some real starter fluid tomorrow, rent / buy a compression tester, and probably order up a used throttle body from a salvage supplier.

[TheAngryBear]

Anyway, I re calibrated the TB twice as per Angrybear's suggestions. Cleaned out the TB connector, and cleared the error codes on INPA, and reset adaptations.

Just to be clear, when you reset the adaptations you then recalibrated the TB? When resetting adaptations the TB is also reset.

Just to double check as well: do you have a battery tender or equivalent? With all the attempted starts it may have been drained below 12.2 (min start V iirc).


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[JimLev]

Your 134 error pertains to the DME not reading the throttlebody position.
Before you throw parts at it clear the codes, turn the key off, then turn the key to position 2 for at least 30 sec, longer won't hurt. Turn the key off, the try to start the engine.

[Jay M.]

Just to be clear, when you reset the adaptations you then recalibrated the TB? When resetting adaptations the TB is also reset.

Just to double check as well: do you have a battery tender or equivalent? With all the attempted starts it may have been drained below 12.2 (min start V iirc).

Car has been on a charger / tender for the last few weeks and is always above 12.2 when I attempt a startup. I reset the TB twice using the key then reset adaptations. I did this in the other order over the weekend and it made no difference.

JimLev[/COLOR]] Your 134 error pertains to the DME not reading the throttlebody position.
Before you throw parts at it clear the codes, turn the key off, then turn the key to position 2 for at least 30 sec, longer won't hurt. Turn the key off, the try to start the engine.

I tried this last night as per Angrybear's suggestions, no dice and the error keeps returning.

I ordered a salvage throttle body which should hopefully let me get the codes cleared and maybe get this thing started. I'll keep you guys posted.

[geargrinder]

Anyway, I re calibrated the TB twice as per Angrybear's suggestions. Cleaned out the TB connector, and cleared the error codes on INPA, and reset adaptations. The only errors that returned after 3 unsuccessful cranks were:

122 Ambient Temperature Signal
134 Throttle Actuator Adaptation Lower Stop

I can't find much information pertaining to error 122 online. I'm guessing this is MAF, unless there is another temp sensor located somewhere in the throttle body I'm unaware of. Error 134 still involves the throttle body.

My current plan is to grab some real starter fluid tomorrow, rent / buy a compression tester, and probably order up a used throttle body from a salvage supplier.

OK. The fact that you cleaned up the connector (which you'd admitted to finding schmutz in after the incident) and lost most of the TB errors is a good sign. The codes were reading open circuit before, and now they are gone. Must have fixed something.

I'm guessing either the connector or TB socket are still contaminated, but a JY TB isn't a terrible thing to try and - unlike some 'parts cannon' approaches - having a working spare TB on the shelf for these cars is not a bad idea at all (see my 15 "TB problems" threads if you want to know why...).

Re: 122.... Ambient means outside air. Yes the Intake Air temp (commony referred to as "IAT" sensor) is built into the MAF for these (and most post late 90's) cars and not a separate part. But Ambientshould be a different signal and come from the external temp sensor that sits in front of the fender liner on the passenger side. The DME isn't actually wired to the Ambient sensor, however I assume it gets that data from the cluster via CAN bus. Is your ambient temp sensor connected? Regardless (and "irregardless") it shouldn't interfere with a start in any way - many 540's have driven around with smashed up fender liners and no ambient sensor.

- - - Updated - - -

BTW I would say one more thing - while TB adaptation is important for the car to run well, that alone shouldn't interfere with at least getting a fire/start. And if the DME is coding that error then I think its saying it actually can't adapt the throttle body. So definitely try to adapt the junkyard one, but if that still returns same code, I think your connector or wiring is still borked.

[Mach540]

How we doin on the "starting fluid??"

[Jay M.]

Junkyard TB went in tonight. Cleared errors in INPA, turned key to ignition. Let the TB calibrate a few times - no TB errors returned after I cycled ignition and checked. Car still doesn't start. I'm pretty flat out of ideas at this point. Vacuum inspections, compression tests, and that starter fluid I didnt get to this week coming soon...

[geargrinder]

No codes at all?

[JimLev]

Starter fluid..................

[Jay M.]

No codes at all?

Only the 122 ambient code. Which, after you mentioned it, I remembered that my passenger lower fog light harness is jacked up from before I bought this car. I purchased it with the whole front corner of the bumper missing and the temp sensor is not even on the harness anymore. Haven't gotten around to replacing that since it doesn't affect anything.

Poked around a little bit. Some oil is leaking from the valve cover where it meets the upper timing chain covers. Looks like there is high potential for a gross vaccum leak there... Will tear it down and re-seat tomorrow.

[JimLev]

Without the temp sensor your rear window heater and both side mirrors will be getting 100% power.
Your AC most likely won't work either.
Twist the wires together until you get a new sensor.

[geargrinder]

Only the 122 ambient code. Which, after you mentioned it, I remembered that my passenger lower fog light harness is jacked up from before I bought this car. I purchased it with the whole front corner of the bumper missing and the temp sensor is not even on the harness anymore. Haven't gotten around to replacing that since it doesn't affect anything.

Poked around a little bit. Some oil is leaking from the valve cover where it meets the upper timing chain covers. Looks like there is high potential for a gross vaccum leak there... Will tear it down and re-seat tomorrow.

+1 to Jim as usual. Your AC will likely not go on without the sensor. Shouldn't impact starting at all though. Also a VC leak shouldn't impair starting.

I can't help but continue to come back to the fact car seemingly ran great before the coolant puke, and that the coolant puke (feel ya too friend, I've done similar before although not with such consequences my old Audis would spray oil all over the place if the oil cap was left off, which often your forget when doing an oil change and going to fire it up for a second just to pump the filter full and recheck the level) did cause TB issues. So maybe there's a other sensor / wiring short going on.

[Jay M.]

So maybe there's a other sensor / wiring short going on.

I figured this as well and also installed a new MAF today, since this is right next to the bleeder and got soaked. As usual, no change in startup. The intake temp seemed to be reading about 5 C warmer on the old MAF unit. I did a few cranks looking at the analog values in INPA. Whats going on with the injection time? Can anyone verify if this is normal to go off the software scale during cranking?

If something is causing the engine to flood immediately because it's dumping fuel this could be another avenue.

[Mach540]

If I remember correctly, i believe the fuel injectors have power all the time and activated via a ground pulse. Maybe, if your injectors are not getting power (I know you mentioned something about checking them, but too lazy to go back and look) and the lack of some kind of signal from the DME is confusing the system?? Dunno.......
Basically, maybe something is mussed up there.

Edit:

Went back and looked and you had done several tests to verify the injectors are working...... so no help here.....

Edit again:

But still waiting on the starting fluid results......

[JimLev]

Right, the DME grounds the injectors to fire them.
They all get 12 volts from one of the 5 fuses in the back of the DME box. Have you checked them?
That injection pulse seems to be a bit too long IIRC.

[Jay M.]

Right, the DME grounds the injectors to fire them.
They all get 12 volts from one of the 5 fuses in the back of the DME box. Have you checked them?
That injection pulse seems to be a bit too long IIRC.

Those fuses are in good shape and I just continuity checked them. The injectors are also getting pulses that I confirmed with the timing light awhile back. The issue is if the pulses are the correct duration and what might be causing the issue if it is actually a concern.