Doors questions.

[katit2]

I took some door covers out and have some questions:

1. What is this black "goo" that they used to attach foam insulation? I may need some when reinstalling.

2. I was really freaked out when I noticed bubbling brown-ish layer toward inside bottom of a door. When I picked it with a pointy object - it looks like yellow grease. Is that a anti-rust cover? Is it factory or someone added later?

3. Any other common problems/issues with doors that need to be taken care "while I'm there"?

[ross1]

The black goo is called "black goo", just sticky stuff to hold the moisture shield. It doesn't need to be pretty so you can steal some from one place for another. Pernicious stuff it is, don't get it on your hands and touch anything you intend to keep.
The junk on the door bottom sounds like something added to prevent rust. Did it work?
Clean and lube with silicone spray the window channels and grease the door check while you are there.

[GregT53]

1. It's called ribbon sealer. Places like Advance Auto carry it. Made by 3M. Get the 1/4" size. Do a good job and make sure to make a solid seal because this is what keeps moisture from getting into the interior.
2. This is factory installed rust preventative so don't remove it.
3. Lubricate the window slide channels located in each arm of the window regulator. Good idea to clean them first. The best grease I have found for this is Wurth True Glide because it stays in the channels best.

[katit2]

Greg, thanks a lot! This is what I needed to know. Opening new thread asking about door panels

[moroza]

Butyl rubber in various degrees of hardness. Most auto parts stores will carry it, often labeled as for RV windows/vents.

No E34 door I've seen has grease inside, so I'll say that's aftermarket. Regardless, the important thing is - does it work?

[GregT53]

No E34 door I've seen has grease inside, so I'll say that's aftermarket. Regardless, the important thing is - does it work?

Both my E34s (1995 525, 1993 M5) have the same grease like material at the bottom of each door. It was either factory or BMW dealership applied. It would be too odd a coincidence for it to be otherwise. I have a feeling it was factory applied because the usual after production application holes are missing. It has worked in my cars.

After 20+ years, I keep these rust prone areas rust free by keeping the drain holes cleared and refreshing the preventative with WD40.

[moroza]

After 20+ years, I keep these rust prone areas rust free by keeping the drain holes cleared and refreshing the preventative with WD40.

Finally, I hear of WD40 being used for its sole intended purpose.

[katit2]

Yes, it worked. I have no rust on doors. But this layer does look like rust When you touch and remove - you see something like grease.

[wmrcs]

Finally, I hear of WD40 being used for its sole intended purpose.

Haha! No kidding!

[GregT53]

Finally, I hear of WD40 being used for its sole intended purpose.

Somebody had to do it.

BTW, for those interested in applying a rust preventative try Boeshield. It's pretty much the same material that some are finding at the bottom of doors. Boeshield was developed by Boing Aircraft Co. for use on airframe areas more prone to corrosion. It's great stuff; I use it when I assemble new bicycles by coating the insides of frame tubes, especially steel frame bikes.

[moroza]

Boing Aircraft Co.

Is that the noise their products make upon landing?

[GregT53]

Is that the noise their products make upon landing?

No, but it's what happens when the e goes missing because of auto-correct. Have to be careful with all the "help" Apple gives us.

[moroza]

Symptom of the times - automatic braking, "lane keeping assist", drowsiness sensors, autocorrect... before you know it, your smart and fully integrated iSocks will redirect the BFC URL to vwvortex because it sees you happen to be wearing your baseball cap backwards that day and gets confused.