E36 328i m52b28 issues again

[WadiM3]

It's that time again where I have to request help from my fellow techs and friends.

first my bonnet cable seems to have snapped and when I tried taking the grill out and pulling the cable I just managed to hold the end were its split and that's right on my passenger side grille right hand drive car. How do I go about opening this bonnet?

second, ever since I had the s52 cams installed car ran fine 3 days later my car pulls every gear to redline but 4th and 5th it struggles to get to 120mph on both gears and the power comes for a split second and goes. Today it started blinking traction control at around 80-90mph but not in 1st and 2nd gear when flooring it. (Video emailed to Chris). I haven't been able to pull codes as the bonnet won't open lol. Also car seems down on power I think as standard m52b28 328 was right next to me and I was struggling to pull

3rd issue, new track rod ends and bushes all around, when the wheel alignment guy tries to adjust one wheel toe it moves the other (front end) what could be broken that we physically can't see?

4th issue my shifter feels sloppy but hard in the the bottom gears like 2nd and 4th and sometimes it pops out of gear.

5th when I brake really hard I feel some judder in my brake pedal and the car slides forward in a straight like and the vibration in the peddle is really strong and peddle becomes stiff, rotors and pads are fine and not warped and no codes from abs and no abs light (this problem has been ongoing for a long time)

6th someone tried to break into the car by pulling the passenger door handle and now the handle won't do anything from the outside and only unlocks the car from the inside.

7th seat belts are saggy and won't tighten unless I tighten them by pulling them a few times and feeding the extra. Slack back in, I tried Darin's method of cleaning them out with by water and soap but no luck.


Oh oh and also the car doesn't have any cats anymore straight lines from manifold to backbox.
1500 miles since I had the cams upgraded and car is on 163k miles now
Thanks in advance

[MauiM3Mania]

I picked the easy one... all it took was a 30 second search. https://youtu.be/-w_iZIIq1xE

[WadiM3]

Thanks Scott! Will try tackle it through the indicator first thing tomorrow morning when I wake up, as pulling the handle unlocks my driver side!

[WadiM3]

Mine is the indicator problem but the cable isn't there.

[WadiM3]

I tried to fish for the cable and accidently pulled a black cable which I thought was the bonnet cable from the indicator side and ripped it off something but my headlights work fine. Still no luck with the bonnet I don't think the bonnet cable is by the indicator anymore I tried to fish for around 2 hours with no luck.

[mrgizmo04]

4. Tranny popping out of gear prob requires detent/locking pins and springs replacement. Sloppy probably requires to replace worn shifter bushings. Depending on what exactly you mean by "hard in bottom gears", could mean synchros? Detent/locking pins are rather simple, so are bushings, synchros are internal and would either require a shop that rebuilds trannys or a new tranny.


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[mrgizmo04]

3. Each toe (left and right) uses a separate tie rod which adjusts independently. The way they are connected is via the steering rack. Could there be something wrong with the steering rack?


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[WadiM3]

Possibly, thanks for the reply! Will try to change the rack and the tranny doesn't always pop out of gear. It's once in a while thing and 2nd and 4th is slightly stiffer to get into then first third and fifth

[bmwdirtracer]

I've responded to your email, Mohammed. If the traction light is coming on and off at 80 mph, there will be codes in the ABS module, and we need to know what they are. Also, hold down the ASC/DSC button for five seconds....and then see if you have recuperated full power.

Is the steering rack tightly bolted into place? Anybody checked how much slop is in the tie rods, and the ball joints even?

Replace the parts numbered 2,4,7, and 12, and make sure the transmission mounts are intact and in good shape:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=25_0577

EDIT: Does your car have a second throttle body assembly and cables for the ASC ?

[WadiM3]

Yeah my car came with the ASC+T but I used to switch it off when I had my lsd on now my lsd is broken I switched back to a standard open 2.93 diff..


but even when my traction wasn't kicking in a few weeks back the car won't go any faster then 110mph or so it feels like it's struggling and also my low end power isn't at full either I feel my car is robbed for power

[WadiM3]

Okay with traction control off the traction control doesn't kick in at around 80-90mph anymore but the second I go into 4th the car struggles to pull

[bmwdirtracer]

Try unplugging the MAF, then start it, hold down the ASC button for five seconds, then see whether your power issues have changed.

I don't remember: do you have cats? a muffler that might be clogged? an air filter that might be clogged? Maybe the ASC throttle body, or your regular throttle body, is sticking, not opening fully?

Generally, the lack of power you're describing is most likely an AIR deprivation issue. The engine is an air pump; the more air it pumps, the more power it makes.

Of course, computer controls add complexity to that equation. ABS/ASC issues can put the engine into a "fail-safe" mode. But I'd look first for an airflow failure. Make sure that the ASC throttle body is cycling when the key is turned "on". Do you have this throttle body?

- - - Updated - - -

EDIT:

Yeah, there it is: ASC throttle assembly:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=13_1712

Is this unit still intact on your car? If I'm not mistaken, you can't just delete it, a resistor needs to be wired in.

[WadiM3]

I haven't deleted it it's still intact and all I ever do is switch it off by holding the asc button for 5 seconds as you described but I have many issues mainly the bonnet which is why I can't check anything else

[WadiM3]

Help? Anyone ?

[bmwdirtracer]

If you can't open the hood, can't check whether air's properly getting to the engine, can't check the codes in the ABS, can't replace or at least carefully check the parts I mentioned in post 9, can't unplug the MAF, and can't check whether the steering rack is correctly bolted in place, why would you be asking for more help?

[WadiM3]

I'm asking asking on more help in regards to opening the bonnet so I can get through to the other things, if no one wants to put in any input or want to help it's completely fine and not compulsory no one owes me anything I just wanted to see if any friends can help lend some knowledge. If someone wants to help me we could start with help on popping the hood because then everything else becomes accessible if not then that's fine thanks everyone either way.

In in terms of the rack, yes it's bolted in place but the alignment guy said he thinks it's bad as there's some sort of slack in the rack, and my tech told me that I need a new gearbox as he thinks my gearbox is bad because when you release your foot off the clutch in first or reverse really slowly it starts jerking and the car starts jumping till I accelerate/ give it some gas

[bmwdirtracer]

I do not have access to an E36, but if I had to open the hood, I would go through the grill, because it's the only hole.

[323i E30]

Skip to 2m30s
I assume the latch runs on the other side of your car, being RHD.
Disclaimer: I haven't tried this myself on an E36.

[WadiM3]

I tried so that video , no luck. I tried the grill too no luck it won't open the wire is snapped by the grill and can't find the other end also when I pull the handle from the car it unlocks the driver side but not the passenger

[jharbert530]

The lever to move should still be there when in the fully locked position use your key there's. Notch (groove) in between where the cable would end an on the side that u can't see push it towards the drivers side an it releases the other black handle (in the grill )

[WadiM3]

I think the lever doesn't open because the cables can't pull the bonnet pins which when you pull the handle inside the car it releases the bonnet pins and then you put ur hand under the bonnet to pull the second lever and then open the bonnet. I can't get through the first step only the driver side unlocks with the handle

[jharbert530]

Ok I misunderstood what wire u meant, (mine broken at the little black box an the handle inside the car)Have u attempted to take the other grill off ? (I have an it seemed to be in there like ragu) I'd start with trying to move the lever like you do with the drivers side(I'd bet you would need to pull it towards the drivers side ) in either case the wire that broke should still be connected there in between the black handle an the frame of the grill anyways

[MauiM3Mania]

Have someone put a bit of weight on the hood, where the stuck pin is, while you gently attempt to release the mechanism.

[WadiM3]

7No it snapped between both grill, I tried that Scott no luck

[jharbert530]

We all fisherman Irish , but I'm the captain now... happy fishing