Went tot read the battery one more time got a reading off 11.4. I'll have a chance to charge it tomorrow during/inbetween work, but I took the cable off the battery.
Went to pull fuses but the night time stopped that progress. But while I could pull fuses ( the first 20). I was sitting lookin at the dash and saw the eml light on figured it be normal since I had fuses pulled, idk. Then I saw check control for the first time. Is that referring to the ccm? Then I hit the locks while inside the car and noticed that the power would turn everything off like I was trying to start the car.
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Went to pull fuses but the night time stopped that progress. But while I could pull fuses ( the first 20). I was sitting lookin at the dash and saw the eml light on figured it be normal since I had fuses pulled, idk. Then I saw check control for the first time. Is that referring to the ccm? Then I hit the locks while inside the car and noticed that the power would turn everything off like I was trying to start the car.
Have you been able to check around the starter and look at the actual cables to make sure nothing is frayed or making false contact? Also look around and underneath that B (+) post next to the fuse box. Id also check around the main positive cable running off of the battery and down into the carpet. Have you checked BOTH fusible links? Do you hear any sparking at all when this occurs?
BMW 7er Website www.7er.com
1989 BMW 735i Schwarz (sadly, sold) // 1989 BMW 750iL Cirrusblau Metallic // 1998 BMW 740iL Oxfordgrün Metallic // 2000 M5 Carbon Schwarz ///
After pulling some fuses (rear seat) and disconnecting the anti-theft module I finally stopped the drain in the car. Can't remember the fuses off the top of my head but I wrote down what I pulled. The drain is solved but I'm still at a no start now. The lights don't dim when I crank it so the alternator good. (Managed to get backup one from a 92 850i at a pyp junkyard thinkin that was the problem when I first got it). Hell even at this point I'm just happy one of the biggest issues us solved.
An easy way to check for a specific drain point is to use your multimeter and set it to amps as well as moving the cable. Place the lead in place of the fuse in series (fuse removed) and you will see the amperage draw on any tested circuit. Then you can pinpoint the drain.
Another way is to place all the fuses back. Disconnect the positive cable and put the multimeter again in series. You will see a high draw. Start pulling fuses until that high draw goes down and you are left with a lower drain. The cars draw as little as 10mA depending on the car. My Volkswagen draws somewhere around 40mA after it has "gone to sleep". I believe E32s are around that number.
Same symptoms with no start? Or it wont crank over now?
BMW 7er Website www.7er.com
1989 BMW 735i Schwarz (sadly, sold) // 1989 BMW 750iL Cirrusblau Metallic // 1998 BMW 740iL Oxfordgrün Metallic // 2000 M5 Carbon Schwarz ///
In your first post you mentioned that after jump start the dome light was not working. That goes via the GM under rear seat. I would recommend once more to check BOTH fusible links, as you mentioned that you only checked one.
Read this http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1268112
Fusible Link A is 50 Amps. goes to e-box in engine bay and powers the Motronic
Fusible B is 80 Amps. It feeds all the Rear Power Box loads = GM, RM etc
the fusible link A which goes to the e-box in engine bay and is for the Motronic etc.: to make a visual check of this one is difficult, because you have to cut open the outer black, now very hard plastic sheath of the wire loom coming from the battery pole and going in direction right rear door and disappears under the door sills, goes to the front and then thru the firewall into engine bay, it is easier to test with a multimeter.
If your fusible link A is intermittent, then the voltage at post X1540 in the e-box will be low and fluctuating. This is easy to measure, at D100 = diagnostic connector, pin 14, pin numbers are shown on page 8500.0.20 X1532. And the numbers are molded into the connector.
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/377728/
and download this, a nice data sheet from an E32, with all components listed and where their location is
1990 BMW 750iL (E32/2) V12-4988cc 5.0L SOHC (M70)
Fuse Locations in Power Distribution Box / Relay Box
Layout Of Rear Power Distribution Box
Auxiliary Relay Box
Fuse Assignments
Vehicle Level >>>Locations>>>> Component Locations>>> Component Index http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/rm...841_aFinal.pdf
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
I have dome lights in the car now after rewiring the front pins that lead to the exciter wire. SergeBMW the drain is solved I pulled fuses (31,41,51) and disconnected the anti-theft for further measure. I had this weird issue of being in the car. The doors closed, key in on position, press the locks and the power would cut off and come back on when it unlocked. That's my slight reasoning for removing the anti-theft module. For the no start issue; it cranks but won't turn over. Still no running/parking lights. I have the little side marker lights and brake lights.
if it turn over, next step, check fuel delivery for both pumps, ignition = from ignition coils to spark plugs, the 2 donuts on cylinder 6 and 12 and the 2 crankshaft position sensors. Also check spark plugs 12 and 6, if these are dead, no signal to the donuts, = no sparks, same with the CPS.
Data are in these links for all the things
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...and-M73-engine
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1255587/
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1237505
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Another thing I noticed when I had the multimeter on the battery is that my volts have dropped .2 every time I've attempted to start the car (3 trys at 12.2 right now). The car will hold the charge but I think imblosing voltage somewhere at ignition?
Of course it will drop, starting takes a lot of juice. I would not worry, but keep it charged up.
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1992 750iL
Okay so I went to try to start the car again and noticed that another "idiot light" I didn't notice turned on the CEL. The car attempt to start but didn't low voltage. Only thing I did was a DME swap.
To elaborate further. I saw a flashing CEL. Then I begin to think and I don't ever remember seeing it come on during this whole no start issue. So I swapped DME (changed the back one to the front and vice versa). Still flashing light, so I changed switched them back. Reconnected the battery now I have the solid CEL before ignition. Even the oil pressure gauge moved. Could the DME be the issue?
The CEL should be on before ignition. Actually most idiot lights should be on. You need to figure out your voltage issue. If its not cranking right, nothing else matters.
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1992 750iL
Sorry unity forgot to add the low voltage was coming from the battery (from trying to start). The car actually cranked and wanted to turn over and start but the dash started fading/cutting out.
Like I said, you need to resolve your battery issue. You should be able to crank it for at least a minute. Not that it would be recommended, 30 seconds at MOST. "Wanting" to turn over indicates a problem getting power to the starter or a starter issues, etc. The car will not start on weak voltage/amperage.
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1992 750iL
Charged the battery (12.6). The car cranks and turns over but won't start. Even got the engine to fire "barely" but then it died. I smell gas gettin to the engine when attempting to start again, but like unity said I think I'm having an issue of getting enough power to the starter.
12.6V does not mean a lot, you have to make a load test of the battery, maybe a cell is dead. http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq4.htm#inspect
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Try jumpstarting it with another vehicle. If it still seems like it not enough cranking power, the starter may be at fault or wiring.
Another possibility is a timing chain failure, chain jump.
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1992 750iL
My starter once broke, the internals of the 1988/9 750 starter motors are made of plastic (that one was made 08/1988) , see my website under fixes>>>engine general>>starter planetary gear
we replaced it with metal planetary gear from a Bosch used in a Mercedes Benz of similar built year, runs fine.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
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