newbie questions an concerns e39 530i finally out of shop

[jharbert530]

Replaced the entire cooling system PS pump water pump ordered the heater inlet pipes but mechanic told mee it would be extra (afterwards) aka They were fine "dont worry buddy " thinking out loud I said unless yall cracked them , going over the parts they took off he was showing me a bent spot on the water pump gear on the back (how does that happen) ? I was looking over the parts an the water pump pulley is was already the aftermarket version so Ithat lead me to beileve it's been changed at least once before , knowing now that the gear was messed up could that have been the reason for the squealing(reference to previous issue from my first forum topic ) an overall is there an underlying issue for this (such as the fans effect on the pulleys ) ,...... Next topic he finally run the obd scanner no codes except bank 2 catalytic converter on his "top of the linee obd brand is something with a m weird name) (heart string guilt) when I bought the vehicle they had the negative clamp held together with one bolt an electric tapee I learned this after I would try an start my car in the mornings an either the connection was not enough or the battery was dead it went on for a week or so before I got a replacement bolt no issue since .... A. Im guessing I have no fault codes because everything was reset my question is kind of rhetorical but y'all can probably show me a couple ways to get codes out of it , there is no way to get the old codes back? Next question about what I seen when he was scrolling through the live data when my car was idling there was a few thing in the negative I casually asked about it an he didn't respond he was stuck on "very good only one codee" like a broken record though lol .... Can y'all show me a spec sheet of what it should be ? I have the Bentley manual but unsure if it would be there , an the foxwell scanner ....don't quit your day job to become a teacher but school me about what I'm looking at ?




Nextt maintenance detail is brakes pads rotors sensors an coil packs plugs an wires ,right at 6 hours again an about 900-1100 parts ,asking him to do the smoke test asap on intake an the oil as well (I was asking him about the the rear main again an no response just" very big job" is that going to effect anything should I change the transmission fluids at the same time 165,*** what could you do to keep it from changing the adaptations?

[jharbert530]

Trifecta come up while in town today anfront left turn signal stopped working stopped an put the obd scanner on it no codes on (the obdII screens) but once I switched it to the screen in the BMWscan ) I found this list unsure if it's stored things on the modules or what?

ASC, UNDERVOLTAGE , BREIF POWER INTERUPTION CHANGEOVER VALVE REAR AXLE

Engine:dde diesel electronics cat converter bank 2 ,insufficient heat output ,air mass flow sensor ,missing 1 an 5

Here's what makes me think these are old code there's a list in the lws steering angle sensor an the seats but they both seem to work fine in every direction (idk about the memory)

slider fault adjustment operation , supply terminal 30 , internal fault ,sensor \ vehicle allocation incorrect or unavailable

Ihka
Auc sensor

Kom instrument cluster
Fault stored

Zke central body electronics, servomotor vertical block ,transmission fault ,,driver central locking ,drivers seat sled

LRA AUTOMATIC HEADLIGHYT vertical aim, headlamp left an right ,left signal fault ,light check module ,fault stored

Ews vehicle immobilizer voltage supply control module

[02Pilot]

First, find a new shop, one that specializes in these cars and has the proper tools to diagnose and repair them.

Second, all of those codes relate to electrical components, which makes me think that the battery issue you described earlier may be to blame. These cars are very picky about operating voltage. Check the battery to determine its condition (remove the surface charge first), and check running voltage. If these are acceptable, I would clear the codes and see what happens. Anything that returns may be an actual problem.

Oh, and don't even bother with the OBD scanner. Just go straight for the BMW-specific scan on the Foxwell.

[bmwdirtracer]

You have several codes that would explain the "Trifecta":
Certainly, ABS Undervoltage would cause this. How's your alternator doing? Have you seen a battery light?
Brief Power Interruption: was this specifically for the Changeover Valve, or are these two separate codes? The changeover valve is internal to the ABS unit, so it would seem unusual for just this one valve to have a power interruption.
A steering angle sensor fault will absolutely trigger the trifecta. You're showing this item losing power, having an internal fault, and not being coded (or perhaps adjusted). Adjutment requires a good BMW diag computer.

Your scan tool is telling you that it spoke to the DIESEL engine computer. This is the ECS "Schwaben" unit specifically for BMWs ???

I'm with 02 Pilot: check your battery, engine off and engine running, make sure cables are clean and tight. Clear all codes from all computers, then verify there are no codes, then drive the car around the block, shut it off, repeat the drive, then check codes again.

[jharbert530]

Ok I appreciate it , I don't have a multimeter or load tester on hand so I'm going to (turn the high beams on for 5 mins ) an check the before an after voltage by the monitor (only concern is what is full for my battery I'll post what size my battery is in the next post) an it should be somewhere around 12 to 12.65?

[jharbert530]

The only knowledge I would have about the car an anything about the alternator or it not starting recently would be when I took it to the shop I tried to turn it over (twice) an it would turn just not enoughh, I left it an come back about an hour later an it turned right over like it always has (this wass when it had been sitting without me messing with it for about a month ani only see the battery light when the key is in the on position before I start it ..., Your correct about that being two separate faults yeah I noticed that as well an yes it's the nt510 from the ECS site

[bmwdirtracer]

A multimeter can cost as little as $15, at Sears, Napa, Autozone, etc. Note that Autozone / Napa/O'Reilly type places will come outside and test your battery and alternator for free.

The trouble with using the car's systems to test the battery voltage is that you need to do it with the key on, which causes significant, but unknown load. Even with the car running, the voltage test is showing you whatever a particular computer is seeing, not what the alternator is actually outputting.

The battery voltage, ignition and accessories off, should be 12.6 or 12.7 volts. The battery voltage, engine running, should be 13.5 volts to 14.5 volts.

[jharbert530]

Yeah I figured that an I also figured it was time to get a new battery this one is 900 CCA duralast gold
I recorded everything I. Could to get an average
With ignition on 12.0
With headlight on 11.7 +
With high beam steady 11.6 for 5 -10mins

Start: stalled around 9.0 then ramped up to 120+ an climbed up to 133 neversteady ended up around 13.0when i turned it off
How you say new battery mundey ,

I went ahead an went over the obd scan again while I was outtherre an got the codes for what we are talking about but i didn't reset them I'll wait until Monday when I'm at oreilys cleaning an testing everything with the multimeter

59SC,undervoltage
5ASC,breif power interruption
56SC , changeover valve rear axle

I noticed my steering wheel reset itself when i turned the ignition on so I went over servomotor stuff again nothing new
Engine:dde
E9: Insufficient heat output oxygen sensor before cat
8:signal , air- mass flow sensor
EE: MISFIRE 1
F2:MISFIRE 5

[bmwdirtracer]

Clear the codes asap; we need to see what comes back. Have you had the MAF unplugged with the ignition on? I really want to know whether the engine codes reset as coming from a DIESEL. (DDE) (You sure it didn't say DME?)

Recheck your voltage like this: If you've run the car for more than ten minutes recently, go check voltage now, ignition OFF. In the morning, before you start it for the first time, is an excellent time to test.

When you've JUST run the car, you shut it off, turn the lights on for ~30 seconds , then shut off lights and test voltage. Do NOT test with key on, engine off; you can't estimate the electrical draw. After this test, you can start car, give it 20 seconds, then read battery voltage again; should be over 13.5, or your alternator is suspect.


HOWEVER PLEASE NOTE: You have described one of the well known symptoms of a failing E39 ignition switch. Your steering wheel moving by itself is a warning. Any other weird electrical anomalies?

[jharbert530]

What's with the BMW batteryas should I invest in one or (in my case ) will a regular battery be fine?

[bmwdirtracer]

You do not need to buy a BMW branded battery.

[jharbert530]

I'll go ahead an answer what I can my battery's dead I left the headlight switch on an (the hey dumb*** ding wasn't enough to remind me )

100% sure it's diesel dde diesel electronics 3.0 (I have a photo of it now )

Yes i started it when it was off it was my half *** way of flushing the PS reservoir I removed all the hoses from the bottom draines it an refilled it twice in order to do that I needed to air box up to the connection with the maf on it ,

The mystery ping from the ambient temp sensor , its hard on the throttle in cruise control going up a hill it'll start at 3g an won't stop till I tap out of it( I'm afraid of that 4g mark)normal on the highway it's only done that maybe twice I haven't used cruise since the last time ,

Idk if it counts as electronic abnormalities but when shifting it's always felt like it pulls the throttle when shifting, no sound just a feeling ,the only way I know to make it do it enough for others to notice it's in stepmatic if I let it bottom out in second without shifting it myself it'll pull an put my rpms around 2 without ever touching the throttle also never shows its in first when doing this

Also when shifting an upon releasing the brakes there's afast creaking sound sounds like drivers side always figured it was the brakes ,but now that I think of it im not sure I've ever heard it in town once driving could that be something sticking (I'll make a video asap)
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I never figured out what he meant but the guy I bought it from told me the key won't unlock the doors (works for the trunk.... an the hood

[jharbert530]

Was unable to use the multimeter today but cleared the codes an took a short drive while making the videos , I want to update what dirtracer wanted to know it still come back as diesel dde but no codes now the rest are still the same including UNDERVOLTAGE (with new battery) just a few new codes ,

Ews vehicle immobilizer
Key no.1 incorrect random code
Voltage supply ews control module


Air bagMRS
MRS POWER SUPPLY

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I'll repeat the process in the morning or tomorrow afternoon.,should have all the videos up but then

[bmwdirtracer]

All those codes should clear now, try again.

I have not personally used the ECS "Schwaben" Foxwell unit; I understand from others here, that it does the job well. That said, the Chinese have serious trouble with English spelling and syntax.....and Foxwell is very Chinese.

[jharbert530]

[jharbert530]

Ok for the first video I'm going to have to narrate , there's a bad crackling in the video skip forward to 2 mins to see the stepmatic issue I'm talking about I left it in 4th an started coasting to show it doesn' t do this when it hits bottom of 4 the or 3rd it didn't do it in second so I picked my rpms back up an let's it start coasting in second you can see what I'm talking about when it comes back down to 1g it doesn't show first an it picks my rpms up a few hundred depending on how aggressively the rpms are dropping

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Ok for the first video I'm going to have to narrate , there's a bad crackling in the video skip forward to 2 mins to see the stepmatic issue I'm talking about .......until around 1:30 I left it in 4th an started coasting to show it doesn' t do this when it hits bottom of 4 the or 3rd it didn't do it in second so I picked my rpms back up an let's it start coasting in second you can see what I'm talking about when it comes back down to 1g it doesn't show first an it picks my rpms up a few hundred depending on how aggressively the rpms are dropping

[jharbert530]

Obd update no codes except changeover valve rear axle , right an left head lamp auc sensor an there was "fault stored in the lcm " .... First time I noticed the mystery ping while only ignition was on , while opening the ihka screen it hit me with the mystery ping an ambient temp flashing repeated everything I done couldn't get it to do it again

[jharbert530]

https://youtu.be/u9y9KElmxt8

[jharbert530]

Ignore the video listen to the sound I'll try again from the outside next time ,it sounds like a hard knock (on my phone but in person it sounds more like a fast creaking ,brakes? or possibly something worse? Oreilys said battery alternator an starter passed I'll have a( working) multimeter tomorrow , an get you a voltage on the battery an aalternator

[jharbert530]

Unrelated but would like y'all's opinion , I found a whole parts caron this site for some interior work an wondering if it would be worth picworthup some suspension parts as wel......l when underneath the car mechanic pointed out passenger " lower arm" plastic was broken around the top an dry rotted obviously in need of tlc ......

[02Pilot]

Having spent 10 years in an E39 and running it from the 100k to the 200k mile marks, I can say categorically that the proper course of action is to replace ALL the suspension arms at once, preferably with the shocks and struts as well, followed by an alignment. You get new ball joints and bushings, and the car will drive as new.

Now, given that you have other issues currently, and not knowing your plans for the car, this recommendation may not suit your needs, but piecemealing the suspension one arm at a time as needed is going to be disappointing and unnecessarily time-consuming.

[jharbert530]

My goals for the car is to replace everything an make it as close to new as possible in a laborers budget I agree on replacing everything at once but while I may be a badass at Stackimg money back that may be out of my budget this guy is offering to test the dampening of the partsan I can more or less have "all the suspension bit") for little to nothing (compared ) I know just as much about my suspension as I do about this, basically. mine drives in a straight line so I would imagine it's been replaced at one time or another im sure everyone tha has bought a used vehicle has this question , wether it was 100,000 miles ago or 5000? I wouldnt know thats what I mean by "would it be worth it",

Opinion appreciated an noted will stick with new parts for things that have a valued effect on thE vehicle

[bmwdirtracer]

ECS Tuning and FCP Euro sell complete suspension refurbish kits which will save you a BUNCH of money.

[Sleepyhead97]

My goals for the car is to replace everything an make it as close to new as possible in a laborers budget I agree on replacing everything at once but while I may be a badass at Stackimg money back that may be out of my budget this guy is offering to test the dampening of the partsan I can more or less have "all the suspension bit") for little to nothing (compared ) I know just as much about my suspension as I do about this, basically. mine drives in a straight line so I would imagine it's been replaced at one time or another im sure everyone tha has bought a used vehicle has this question , wether it was 100,000 miles ago or 5000? I wouldnt know thats what I mean by "would it be worth it",

Opinion appreciated an noted will stick with new parts for things that have a valued effect on thE vehicle

If you have the money, go with oem equipment or Meyle HD.

If you are on a tight budget, and this is a DD, not a race car: Buy Stagg Struts (220 all 4), and all Mevotech supreme arms. Replace the rear ball joint (rear wheel on the A arm) as well. ou can get away with replacing everything for around 600 or so.

[jharbert530]

BET! I appreciate it as always ,I'm going to order my brakes an coils next week ,an I'll start stacking money back again for the suspension an whatever needs to be replaced on the rear axlehave as it all done at once , I figure my beat bet for the drive is gonna be plano if anyone that reads this would advise another shop at more or less the same drive I'll consider it im in texoma (tex/oklahoma border) area I can read about shops all day but that's not going to point to effort at my costs