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Thread: Another glorius paristic drain problem.

  1. #1
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    Another glorius paristic drain problem.

    2000 e38 sport with the usual battery drain. Battery passed, is functional. Steady 14v while running. Even shut off and sleep mode 12.33 volts. Some days it'll start, some I get the click click. I've removed amplifier cd navigation and passenger door module out of equation. My question, is could s faulty starter be the culprit? I doubt it since the days it goes click click, it'll immediey start with a booster, dunno if starter solenoid is talking too much juice? The odd thing is if I ride to from work it'll start next day,after riding 15 min that following morning it'll click click again after being parked for hour. While hooked up to tester said battery passed, 7.3 volts output via starter and 14v alternator. This is from a snap on tester. Any help?

    Just to reiterate, the times it goes click, theees a slow attempt from starter to engage. I've had battery booster easily over 50 times not with jumper cables because if this problem, and I'd assume if it was a drain problem per se battery would have failed by now(1.5 year old Bosch) I'm hoping it's a starter problem. I've gotten trans fail safe light come on couple times but would go away after battery charged.
    Last edited by E83bmw; 09-21-2017 at 03:55 PM.

  2. #2
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    moved to E38 forum
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  3. #3
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    Thank you

  4. #4
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    Is the car going to sleep after 16 minutes? I would check the 'at rest' reading to see if you actually have a drain. Tim has a good DIY here:

    http://www.meeknet.co.uk/e38/E38_Battery_Drain.htm

  5. #5
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    That simply sounds like a failed battery, as they are reasonably cheap just change it out - a battery that fails to turn the starter on many occasions will be damaged due to low state-of-charge anyway!
    Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i


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  6. #6
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    I had battery trickle charged and it's never gone to battery fail. Had it tested with snap on battery tester. Said passed but needs recharge which I've done with trickle charger. Pep boys tested and won't give me a replacement t because it passed. I know their equipment isn't prob calibrated or up to date but there was no winning that argument. It does go into sleep mode. I've removed all fuses to no avail. I'm just curious if a faulty starter could cause this?

  7. #7
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    So I did independent fuse testing and got 1 amp draw from #7 and #8 fuse. Thing is both connecting was triggering solenoid in heater valve. Was getting hot the touch. Was sticking in a way. If you disconnected both fuses or one the needle would fall down(solenoid) if you'd put #7 or #8 fuse you'd hear the solenoid click again. I rebuild it last year and was functioning well. Can this be the result of the heater valve shorting out leaving solenoid on constant? Question is why did #7 and #8 fuse both had to be inserted to short it out?

  8. #8
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    1996 740iL
    Odd. The only thing that ties those together is they both get power from Fuse 118 under the passenger seat. Fuse 8 powers the passenger door module. If having Fuse 8 in causes the water valve to activate without fuse 7 being in, then you have a wiring issue beyond the the fuses in the ebox. You might look at this thread. Motion has similar issues and found the location of the splice for F7. I don't know if F8 follows the same path.

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ort-HVAC-Issue

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