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Thread: Got Some Rust?

  1. #1
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    Got Some Rust?

    This old Camry (think it was a 2001) came to our dealership last Tuesday for an Evap code. A technician was working on it and when he put the car up in the air we saw this ...










    It had nothing to do with the Evap code, but we were shocked to see the amount or rust it had underneath this car. It has the NC tag but no doubt this came from the North. This past Saturday another technician was working on the first gen Rav4 when he came over and told us about fuel leakage from the tank. I went over to get a quick look underneath it and the edges of the tank along with the fuel lines were all rusty and wet. Didn't take the picture though, so this made me thought about asking what's the most rustiest E39 have you ever seen in your life? What chassis parts or what area underneath the car are most vulnerable to rust overtime? Most I see are the V8 subframes, sway bars, side skirts, rust spots/bubble in the paint and body (my M5 sadly has some), the four jack pad locations, I've seen some rust on the chassis frame, brake parts, springs, etc. Just the usual stuff, but what is the most effective remedy to cure/stop/prevent rust from building up (and furthermore) in your car? Also, what about corrosion on aluminium stuff like on suspension parts and as such?



  2. #2
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    That's just bacon grease. Nothing major to worry about.


  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by freethrowdunk View Post
    That's just bacon grease. Nothing major to worry about.
    I was hoping you would say, "It will buff right out," but I'm disappointed.
    Last edited by auaq; 09-18-2017 at 06:21 PM.



  4. #4
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    Whew, at first, I thought it was your car... LOL.

    Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …

  5. #5
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    Didn't know Toyota Camry's went down with the Titanic.
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  6. #6
    Dwin is offline Go Big or Go Home......
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    Just spray a bit of WD40 and all will be ok.....
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  7. #7
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    I wouldn't worry about it too much... the rear does absolutely nothing on a Camry, since all the driving/stopping is handled by the front wheels.

    They are gonna have one hell of a time trying to get an alignment though, but let's be real here, a Camry owner will never get an alignment.
    1995 525i 5-speed - Thread

  8. #8
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    Might have been a flood victim. Probably coastal flooding with sea water.

  9. #9
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    Two words: "Fluid Film"....old farmers' trick to keep 50 yr old equipment looking new.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason5driver View Post
    Whew, at first, I thought it was your car... LOL.
    Aww hell nooo! If that were true, I would have burned it down long time ago.

    Quote Originally Posted by dannyzabolotny View Post
    I wouldn't worry about it too much... the rear does absolutely nothing on a Camry, since all the driving/stopping is handled by the front wheels.

    They are gonna have one hell of a time trying to get an alignment though, but let's be real here, a Camry owner will never get an alignment.
    Uh ..... no, regardless of any vehicle's drive train setup, or suspension geometry, or how/where the power is sent to the wheels, a rear end does play quite an important role in every aspect of tracking, handling, braking, ride quality, tire wear, etc. Sure, working on such a rusty is no fun and the customer would have to be strictly warned beforehand about breaking parts and expect costly repairs on a lot of stuff.

    And, oh, we do sell a lot of alignments on Camry's and every FWD/4WD/RWD Toyota models, whether old or new.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mach540 View Post
    Might have been a flood victim. Probably coastal flooding with sea water.
    Hmm ... didn't think about that, but you could be right. Or just that it lived 3/4 of its life up north.

    Quote Originally Posted by Quantico View Post
    Two words: "Fluid Film"....old farmers' trick to keep 50 yr old equipment looking new.
    Had to look up Fluid Film. Interdasting stuff ...



  11. #11
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    Did it have the Camry dent?

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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinca540i View Post
    Did it have the Camry dent?

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
    Don't understand. What do you mean by Camry dent?



  13. #13
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    https://www.google.com/amp/jalopnik....1785413530/amp

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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinca540i View Post
    https://www.google.com/amp/jalopnik....1785413530/amp

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
    Never realized there was an article/blog about Camry dents. However, I don't recall seeing one on this particular Camry, but sure enough I have seen plenty of cars on the road that have the potential to fall into this amusing category of "nameless dent".



  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by auaq View Post
    Uh ..... no, regardless of any vehicle's drive train setup, or suspension geometry, or how/where the power is sent to the wheels, a rear end does play quite an important role in every aspect of tracking, handling, braking, ride quality, tire wear, etc. Sure, working on such a rusty is no fun and the customer would have to be strictly warned beforehand about breaking parts and expect costly repairs on a lot of stuff.

    And, oh, we do sell a lot of alignments on Camry's and every FWD/4WD/RWD Toyota models, whether old or new.
    Haha dude it was a joke. I know that the Camry has car bits because it's a car, I was just poking fun at the owners that treat it like a meaningless appliance. And plenty of Camry owners don't do any maintenance until something serious breaks, at least from what I've seen. Though if you work at a Toyota dealership, obviously you'll see lots of people bringing in their cars.

    What do they think of you driving an M5 btw?
    1995 525i 5-speed - Thread

  16. #16
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    I'm in New Jersey and I've never seen anything that bad.

    Camry dent (tm) can happen in front or rear!
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinca540i View Post
    https://www.google.com/amp/jalopnik....1785413530/amp

    sent from my pixel xl using tapatalk
    lol!


  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quantico View Post
    Two words: "Fluid Film"....old farmers' trick to keep 50 yr old equipment looking new.
    That stuff looks awesome!

    There's a guy in this thread that did his own salt corrosion comparison test over 6 months.
    https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...d.php?t=266327
    2003 540i/6

  19. #19
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    ^Very nice test. We should get a thread started with rust treatment techniques for the E39. Identify areas to treat, how to access them, etc.
    98 540i 6, 525 whp, 120 mph 1/4, V3 Si S/C'er @16 psi, W/A I/C, Water/Meth, Supersprint Headers, HJS Cats, 3" Custom Exhaust, UUC Twin Disc, Wavetrac LSD, GC Coil Overs, Monoball TA, AEM FP, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Failsafe AFR/Boost, Style 65's w/275's, M5 Steering Box, Eibach Sways, M3 Shifter, Evans Coolant, 85 Deg Stat, PWM Fan, 10" Subs, B.A. speakers, Grom Aux/BT, Still Rolling as my DD!

  20. #20
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    I hadn't heard of fluid film, I always use POR15, which halts rust completely.
    Set the controls for the heart of the sun

  21. #21
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    I have some starting on the trailing edge of the drivers door and around the license plate lights in the trunk. Before the snow starts I am going to grind down to bare metal, treat with encapsulator, build up with Duraloy then prime and paint.


    http://www.enecon.com/product-duralloy
    much better than evercoat or bondo. doesn't "attract" or absorb water. We use it to fix corrosion on salt water systems on submarines.
    Last edited by toybreaker; 09-19-2017 at 02:11 PM.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by philly98540 View Post
    ^Very nice test. We should get a thread started with rust treatment techniques for the E39. Identify areas to treat, how to access them, etc.
    Yeah, that's what this thread is for. How to clean and treat rust anywhere on E39s.



  23. #23
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    I used Plastikote rust converter to render surface rust inert. Then I use Por-15 over paintable surfaces (even under the car). Inside frame components, I use Eastwood "frame coating" which has a long tube with 360 degree spray tip to go inside the frame members and coat from the inside. It's also good for inside the rocker panels.

    In areas exposed by not being covered by the undercar splash panels, I use rubberized rocker panel spray.

    I've done this on the 530xi (now gone), 528i, and 540i. ON the 530xi (heavily winter driven) - there was surface rust on the steering knuckles and parts around there. I did the same type of treatment as above. After cleaning, I put the Plastikote rust converter (best that I've found for the job, even though expensive) and painted over the inert surface with Por-15. For good measure, I put Collinite electrical insulator wax on top of that - and in exposed areas not coated with the rubberized rocker panel coating. All screws, bolts, etc that were taken off were given a bath in the Plastikote rust converter.

    The Eastwood protection was sprayed inside the rocker panels. and anything underneath that had holes in it.

    Plastikote and Collinite wax were used on axles. Differential case was also painted with Por-15 before being waxed.

    Hopefully this will help offset the ravages of winter on those 3 cars. (530xi, 528i - going to my daughter next year; and the 540i).
    gmak: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly. A journey with my new-to-me 2000 540i

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