Engine Fault - Reduced Power

[stevepoulter]

I own a 2010 F10 520d auto with approximately 73k on the clock.

The vehicle has been running perfectly for years but in the last three days I am getting:

Engine Fault Reduced Power

This message is intermittent, when it shows up the engine revs drop and then within 3 seconds it disappears again and the car performance returns to normal.

On a 5 minute journey it can appear 4 times. The vehicle revs do not always drop when this light comes on as sometimes it disappears as quick as it appears. Other times it is on for three or five seconds, never longer.

I have no clue where to start. I have searched online and there are so many possible faults. Hit a barrier there.

My next step was to buy a diagnostic tool and I have researched this but again there are so many different types, all not showing all faults. So I hit a barrier here too.

I am pretty technical minded and I can repair cars once I am pointed in the right direction.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks all

[MarcoZandrini]

I'm a fan OBDFusion. It loads on your smartphone or tablet. It's available in both iOS and android flavors. iOS uses a wifi communications adapter, while android uses Bluetooth. The adapter plugs into the obd2 port.
What's great about the app? It allows you to log data that you export for desktop analysis in Excel. It lets you scan both the engine computer and the auto tranny computer for codes.

Go to E46Fanatics and search for threads on OBDFusion in which jfoj has commented. He's the guru. He's also in comms with the app's developers.

[stevepoulter]

I'm a fan OBDFusion. It loads on your smartphone or tablet. It's available in both iOS and android flavors. iOS uses a wifi communications adapter, while android uses Bluetooth. The adapter plugs into the obd2 port.
What's great about the app? It allows you to log data that you export for desktop analysis in Excel. It lets you scan both the engine computer and the auto tranny computer for codes.

Go to E46Fanatics and search for threads on OBDFusion in which jfoj has commented. He's the guru. He's also in comms with the app's developers.

Thanks for the info, I will look it up.

[stevepoulter]

Just an update.

Driving it earlier it has now come up with:

"Dynamic Traction Control failure"

And the orange light with a car skidding came up.

After turning the car off and back on the light has now gone.

Just a note when the car is parked with the ignition on, the "engine Fault" indicator doesn't come on. Now matter how long it is parked with the engine running.

[dworthy]

Well you are going to need to scan the car for codes. How many computers or ECU's is in that car you ask? Over a dozen, and a lot of pocket readers will only read the DME. In this case, it appears that you have two separate faults, one in the DME and another in the ABS/DSC ECU.

I am going to assume you live in Birmingham England, and not Alabama U.S.A. This may be able to help you, or you can attempt to find one locally: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...020sch01a~scf/

Several members have said good things about that tool.

[stevepoulter]

Well you are going to need to scan the car for codes. How many computers or ECU's is in that car you ask? Over a dozen, and a lot of pocket readers will only read the DME. In this case, it appears that you have two separate faults, one in the DME and another in the ABS/DSC ECU.

I am going to assume you live in Birmingham England, and not Alabama U.S.A. This may be able to help you, or you can attempt to find one locally: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...020sch01a~scf/

Several members have said good things about that tool.

Thanks.

Yes I'm in Birmingham, England

[stevepoulter]

What's the difference between the Schwaben and the ODBFusion.

Also I need some I can get hold of within the next 48hrs as I'm back at work next week.

[stevepoulter]

I am going to list a few here, please give me any indication as to which one will read all ECUs on my car.....

[stevepoulter]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B06...=bmw+scan+tool

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01...=bmw+scan+tool


Can someone please check these to see if I'm on the right path

[dworthy]

The first one doesn't check the ABS/DSC ECU, and the second one is what I linked to from ECS Tuning. So I would go with the second one.

[stevepoulter]

The first one doesn't check the ABS/DSC ECU, and the second one is what I linked to from ECS Tuning. So I would go with the second one.

Thanks mate

Btw how do I know what the scanner reads, i.e which ECUs.

What am I looking for in the descriptions?
Thanks again

[stevepoulter]

Thanks again.

If I purchase the one you recommend will that read all ECU's. I want it to be useful in the future too not just for this fault.

Can you also get these with the ability to code the vehicle too. Been wanting to code for years but never got around to it.

[MarcoZandrini]

Neither tool can code. You need specific software that runs on a PC/laptop to code an E46. Datin, can you please tell him which software does what?
Thanks,
Mark

PS My 2018 M240i arrives THURSDAY!

[stevepoulter]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01...iagnostic+tool

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01...=bmw+scan+tool

I think its between these two. Which one would you go for, future use, whole BMW diagnosis required

- - - Updated - - -

Neither tool can code. You need specific software that runs on a PC/laptop to code an E46. Datin, can you please tell him which software does what?
Thanks,
Mark

PS My 2018 M240i arrives THURSDAY!

Thanks mate

Mine is a F10. Coding isn't a must,just thought while I'm buying something may as well kill two birds...

[shadowpuck]

the version we're most familiar with is a Foxwell NT510 i believe.

coding can be done by some of these tools - and there are other coding options as well such as Carly, NCS Expert, etc. however, for ease of use in coding Carly and other similar tools would be the better choice.

as to reading codes and such - I've heard good things on the NT510.

[stevepoulter]

the version we're most familiar with is a Foxwell NT510 i believe.

coding can be done by some of these tools - and there are other coding options as well such as Carly, NCS Expert, etc. however, for ease of use in coding Carly and other similar tools would be the better choice.

as to reading codes and such - I've heard good things on the NT510.

Ok. I'm going to order the NT510. I should get it within two days and then I will take it from there.

I am willing to spend up to £200 so if anyone has anything better to suggest let me know. Will be ordered later this evening. 2 hours approx.

Thanks all

[dworthy]

Steve, to code/program your car you will need BMW ICOM ISIS/ISIT software. Also you will need a newish laptop to be able to handle it too, something with a Intel I-5 or I-7 CPU.

I would leave coding to the pros myself.

[stevepoulter]

the version we're most familiar with is a Foxwell NT510 i believe.

coding can be done by some of these tools - and there are other coding options as well such as Carly, NCS Expert, etc. however, for ease of use in coding Carly and other similar tools would be the better choice.

as to reading codes and such - I've heard good things on the NT510.

Steve, to code/program your car you will need BMW ICOM ISIS/ISIT software. Also you will need a newish laptop to be able to handle it too, something with a Intel I-5 or I-7 CPU.

I would leave coding to the pros myself.

You seem to know you stuff mate. Which one is better then


NT630 or NT510

Thanks once again

[dworthy]

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, but I normally use INPA as I have older cars (Pre 2008) as you can see in my Signature.

I would still go with the NT630 as you have that one available to you in your area, and if you do plan on getting into coding, check out this sub-forum: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/f...ostic-Software

[stevepoulter]

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, but I normally use INPA as I have older cars (Pre 2008) as you can see in my Signature.

I would still go with the NT630 as you have that one available to you in your area, and if you do plan on getting into coding, check out this sub-forum: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/f...ostic-Software

Thanks again

[stevepoulter]

I have an update. After all my research a mate of mine said "don't buy a new one use mine!" I didn't know he had one.

So I borrowed his and unfortunately I think I have a big problem.

There are so many errors the main one being:

2A3C00 Internal Engine ECU

I think the other 15 or so errors are as a result of the ECU as they are all failed sensor faults.

Can anyone point me in the right direction. I'm extensively using Google as I type this too

[dworthy]

Well you will need to post up all the fault codes, as several can be linked.

I for one have not heard of problems with the DDE on that car, but you never know as there are quite a few out there on the road.

[stevepoulter]

2A3C00, Engine ECU Internal
249400, Supply Voltage 1, Short Circuit To Positive Or Ground
264100, Swirl FLap Actuator, Position Sensor, Signal, Open Circuit Or Short Circuit To Ground
259800, Pre-Supply Pressure Sensor, Signal, Short Circuit To Ground
26F300, Rail Pressure Sensor, Plausibility, Rail PRessure Signal gradient Too High
26CF00, Fuel Pre Supply Pressure Control, Fuel Pre-Supply Pressure Too Low/Positive Control Deviation
261000, Throttle Value Actuator, position Sensor, Signal, Open Circuit Or Short To Ground
25E300 Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor Before Particulate Filter, Signal, Open Circuit Or Short Circuit To Ground
25D100 Charge Air Pressure Sensor, Signal, Short Circuit To Ground
260F00 Throttle Valve Actuator, Position Sensor Or Short Circuit To Positive
282C00 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Rate Control Deviation, Exhaust Gas Recirculation Rate Too High/Negative Control Deviation
278D00 Throttle Valve, Position Control, Throttle Valve Open Too Far/Negative Control Deviation

There was one more on another screen shot but I can't seem to find that picture and I have returned the Diagnosis Machine back.

I think I mentioned previously that I cleared all these codes on the.machine and they reappeared as soon as I drive the car.

I have checked the battery the alternator load voltage, checked all accessible electrical connections, opened what I think is the ECU casing to check for any loose cabling. All is fine.

Looks like I'm not any further and I might need professional help. I'm reluctant to take the vehicle to a dealer because they will make me sell my kidneys.

Any pointers are so much appreciated.

[dworthy]

So I will attempt to help you with this

2A3C00, Engine ECU Internal
Pull the ECU plug and inspect it, make sure they are clean and dry. I would use a contact cleaner like Wurth's
249400, Supply Voltage 1, Short Circuit To Positive Or Ground
This can just be a loose cable or dirty connector on the battery
264100, Swirl FLap Actuator, Position Sensor, Signal, Open Circuit Or Short Circuit To Ground
Bahh, not important
259800, Pre-Supply Pressure Sensor, Signal, Short Circuit To Ground
Not sure on that one.
26F300, Rail Pressure Sensor, Plausibility, Rail PRessure Signal gradient Too High
This would point to a faulty FPR
26CF00, Fuel Pre Supply Pressure Control, Fuel Pre-Supply Pressure Too Low/Positive Control Deviation
This can be caused by a weak pump or clogged fuel filter.
261000, Throttle Value Actuator, position Sensor, Signal, Open Circuit Or Short To Ground
Check to ensure it is connected properly, and clean the contacts.
25E300 Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor Before Particulate Filter, Signal, Open Circuit Or Short Circuit To Ground
Same as above.
25D100 Charge Air Pressure Sensor, Signal, Short Circuit To Ground
Same as above
260F00 Throttle Valve Actuator, Position Sensor Or Short Circuit To Positive
Same as above
282C00 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Rate Control Deviation, Exhaust Gas Recirculation Rate Too High/Negative Control Deviation
Can be a loose hose?
278D00 Throttle Valve, Position Control, Throttle Valve Open Too Far/Negative Control Deviation

Also what I would do first is clear all the codes and see which one comes back, as that is a pretty be laundry list.

[stevepoulter]

So I will attempt to help you with this

2A3C00, Engine ECU Internal
Pull the ECU plug and inspect it, make sure they are clean and dry. I would use a contact cleaner like Wurth's
249400, Supply Voltage 1, Short Circuit To Positive Or Ground
This can just be a loose cable or dirty connector on the battery
264100, Swirl FLap Actuator, Position Sensor, Signal, Open Circuit Or Short Circuit To Ground
Bahh, not important
259800, Pre-Supply Pressure Sensor, Signal, Short Circuit To Ground
Not sure on that one.
26F300, Rail Pressure Sensor, Plausibility, Rail PRessure Signal gradient Too High
This would point to a faulty FPR
26CF00, Fuel Pre Supply Pressure Control, Fuel Pre-Supply Pressure Too Low/Positive Control Deviation
This can be caused by a weak pump or clogged fuel filter.
261000, Throttle Value Actuator, position Sensor, Signal, Open Circuit Or Short To Ground
Check to ensure it is connected properly, and clean the contacts.
25E300 Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor Before Particulate Filter, Signal, Open Circuit Or Short Circuit To Ground
Same as above.
25D100 Charge Air Pressure Sensor, Signal, Short Circuit To Ground
Same as above
260F00 Throttle Valve Actuator, Position Sensor Or Short Circuit To Positive
Same as above
282C00 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Rate Control Deviation, Exhaust Gas Recirculation Rate Too High/Negative Control Deviation
Can be a loose hose?
278D00 Throttle Valve, Position Control, Throttle Valve Open Too Far/Negative Control Deviation

Also what I would do first is clear all the codes and see which one comes back, as that is a pretty be laundry list.

Thanks again

I have had the codes cleared and they all reappeared as soon as I drove the vehicle

What I don't understand is that the car was running perfect for 6 years, not one fault. Only since Saturday has this all started to do this.

All these faults could not have happened all at once, they must be all linked.

I took the connectors off the ECU, they are dry, shiny and I cleaned them with contact cleaner. There is zero sign of corrosion or water in the ECU casing.

I got a feeling it is the ECU. It's got power as it is talking to the Diagnosis Machine. I might have to remove it and get it checked out.

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