So I'm on my third center support and now have discovered that my u joint is bad causing my problems. On my old e32 I had a common fix done to the driveline, by having a one piece driveline made. I have never heard of anyone doing this to a e38 and am wondering if it's because of the cv or what. Also if anyone knows what part of the driveline is longer on a il, front half or back?
Thanks, Steve
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I've asked this same question a few years ago because I was on my third CSB too
Without an answer, I ended up using a lemforder unit and everything was fine.
Much better to replace the u-joint and retain the original engineering, imho.
I imagine a one piece shaft would have clearance issues due to rear suspension travel,
but I have no experience with trying such a project.
Third member doesn't have any movement to speak of and like I said that was the solution for my e32 which is a older 7en series, only difference is the e32 had a u-joint not a cv joint(e38) at the third member. Maybe time to find out if it can be done I've looked everywhere for a part number for the u-joint and can't find anything.
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Sundaycruzer;
I've always hated 2 piece drive shafts myself. I've always wondered about the logic of them, specially when you have a transmission that is fixed in place and a differential that is fixed in place (no suspension movement) and no weird angles to work around. I believe there are CV joints at both ends on E38's with a center support bearing in the middle. You might ask your driveshaft guy if they can still make a one piece drive shaft with CV's at the ends vs u-joints. Also your dimensions would have to be right on due to a lack of a slip yoke. I would really like to know about this also, having recently dropped about $600 on a new/rebuilt driveshaft for my 850.
Mike Drives:
BMW's
E24 - 635CSiA - (1) 1985 (US)
E24 - 635CSi - (1) 1985 (EC)
E31 - 850iA - (1) 1991 (Black)
E31 - 850iA - (1) 1991 (Calypso Red)
E32 - 740iA - (1) 1994
E32 - 750iA - (1) 1990 (Not an "L") (EC German National)
E32 - 735iL - (2) 1990
E32 - 750iL - (1) 1990
E38 - 740iLA - (2) (1) 1997 & (1) 1998
E38 - 750iLA - (1) 1998
E38 - 740iA - (1) 2000 "Short Sport"
E39 - 528iA - (2) - 2000 & (1) 1997
Also:
2015 Ram 3500 Dually, Cumins 6.7, Std.Cab. Long box 4x4 (To haul all this junk when necessary)
2014 Dodge Dart Rallye (Daily Driver)
2007 Mercedes Benz CL600 (Brabus SV12S)
Mercedes Benz SL's - (1) (2002) & (1) 1999 500 - (1) 1999 600
1967 Buick Riviera (2)
One end is rubber, other end is cv on e38. But there's a minor amount of play in the cv which should allow to get a one piece driveline on. I'm going to ask the driveline shop if they can build one. Honestly this is my daily driver so I would love to just replace the u-joint
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Trust me, if BMW could have used a one piece shaft they would have. Replace the entire assembly consider Beyer, go under your car one time and be done, replace the transmission mounts while there.
http://www.beyerdriveline.com/
I could see a one piece shaft being a complete pain in the ... to remove, as the 2 piece shaft allows for drop flex removal and even that's a tight squeeze.
-2000 iL Individual. VF Supercharged at 12psi, Dinan MAF and TB, 6spd 420g swap, Euro under body guards, strong strut, N62 engine cover, Hydro trunk, Full suspension mods, Brembo F+R big brakes, custom headliner/interior, Bi-Xenon headlights, wide screen nav/mk4, Custom splash screen (I make them), coded video module with custom made harness, reverse camera, Intravee II, factory rear screen entertainment console, rear comms armrest, rear blower, seat back tables and writing tablet, all euro options coded on etc.
-1997 iL. Pioneer 8500nex double din/Avic navigation, swc and dsp still functional. Reverse camera, full suspension upgrades, leather dash, console and door cards, rear blower, Re-upholstered seats, facelift sport contour seats, heated steering wheel, 750 front brakes, custom cup holder replacing the front ash tray, all euro options coded, headliner in black, rear headliner MID console.
If I can take the bolts out of the cv joint I think a one piece will work and fit. Only problem is most shops can’t balance the driveline because of the rubber coupler end. They don’t have the right adapter. So going to figure that one out, later...need fixed driveline now
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Installed my rebuilt Beyer driveline last night and swapped my third member and axles to a sporty..no more vibration
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2 piece is generally smoother and in theory should balance out better than one piece. The e38 was supposed to be butter smooth. You usually get more jerkiness on accell/decell with a one piece too.
I seriously debated one or two piece when I built my LSx 427 e39 touring but after talking with many in the know, I opted for the 2 piece and never had any issues even with 500 ft lbs of torque.
Last edited by RVAE34; 09-28-2017 at 12:41 PM.
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